I had the car in the shop today to check the shimmy I had discovered when driving at speed. They got that fixed but I had noticed a couple of spots on the pavement under the front of the car. They found the power steering hose was slightly loose and tightened the clamps. However, he also said both oil and transmission pan gaskets were leaking. And, the rear main. $1100 estimate!
OK, he had put 5W-30 oil in it when he changed it in November. That's thinner oil than usual so it might ooze out more quickly. And I was planning to have the transmission drained soon anyway. But, that leaves the rear main problem. Can I "watch it like a hawk" and limp by till I can save up some $$$? I've heard of the Blue Devil stuff, but I don't want to gunk up my low mile engine. Especially if it might swell up other seals in other parts of the engine and have to do them later.
I would assume that it might be better to wait on the oil pan gasket until the main (pun) job is done, and just do the transmission gasket right away. Any words of comfort/advice are appreciated. Of course a mechanic is going to say "It's leaking" rather than "It's leaking like crazy." I haven't checked the oil since it's been cold and especially since I've only driven it on the highway once. But I plan to look at it tomorrow.
I don't have to drive the car regularly, mainly just around town to keep the battery up. Again, any advice is appreciated.
Nothing to do with the oil leak/s, Barry, but I note you drive it to keep the battery topped up. Why not connect a 'trickle charger' to the battery; my wife's 1979 Gucci Seville had a battery last ten years by keeping it trickle charged. Available from your local NAPA - which we now have the first in Australia about 8 miles from where we live.
Terry Griffin CLC# 20149
I have several of the trickle chargers. It would be somewhat inconvenient to use one on this car as it is parked on the street. I don't think the leaks are big as I have not noticed anything on the street where the car sits (when we haven't had snow cover.) except for a couple of small spots. I'll possibly know more tomorrow when I can see things in daylight.
I bought a two car pole building some years ago on the lot next door. My grandfather was more interested in his garden than a garage. If he needed a car, he just sent either my father or uncle up to the dealership to get one. And after he got out of the car business, he simply didn't drive. (Dropping me off to a "baby sitter..." They didn't call them that in 1940, was the only time I ever saw him drive a car. So his/now our home doesn't have a garage. The '79 and the '81 get to sleep in the pole building all winter.
Hi again Barry,
Fun looking for parking; we have to build a new garage/shed for one of the Caddies but at least in Suburbia in Queensland, Australia we have sufficient space to do this, and cold is not a problem - we still have barbecues on the patio in the middle of Winter here - something akin to Florida weather without the snow. Power for the trickle chargers is not a problem.
However, I recommend you hang in there until you are ready to replace the rear main, as the motor probably has to be pulled or at least it'd be easier if so when replacing the sump/oil pan gasket. If you're just driving it around the block, so to speak, then you ought to be OK for a while, but I'd keep an eagle eye on it.
You may have seen, my '93 has a digital display issue. Damn hard to get diagnosed here in Oz, but I'll get there either by technical or 'shotgunning' means :-)
Terry Griffin
I'm 90% sure that engine has a once piece rear main which means flexplate / flywheel has to come off which usually means trans and engine have to be split apart several inches to get access. Transverse FWD I don't think there is enough room to just slide something over so one or the other (or both) has to come out. Quite a job, $1100 seems maybe low unless you live somewhere where they charge less than $100 per hour.
I really wonder if its for sure the rear main? Remember one 'feature' of these is the oil filter is conveniently located hanging off the top back of the block above the bellhousing. You have the mess created from filter changes plus every one I ran into had leaks between the block and the filter boss thing. I think they were O rings so really easy fix given the location. I could see oil from the top running down the back of the block and looking like a pan or main seal issue.
On my way to get lunch, I popped the hood and checked the oil. It was clear and full, or as full as most people would "let it go" and drive the car. I also looked around the oil filter and everything looked clean and dry. As I was walking away, I glanced under the car and didn't see anything "puddly." I'll go out after lunch and peer under the car again. What I am starting to think was that my mechanic checked on my saying that I'd seen a couple of small puddles under the car and indeed, found some "leaks." And if I wanted to fix them properly, I'd need to replace the pan gaskets on both the oil pan and transmission. And he found some seepage from the rear main.
I am wondering what might occur if I put a half can of Bars Leak sealant in the oil and see what happens. Or, just change the oil and put 10W-30 in it instead of the 5W-30 that it has in it now. I don't floor my cars much but do cruise with traffic on the interstates.
Change oil to Valvoline High Mileage.
It has seal softeners / conditioners to help with leaks without over swelling the seals.
Oil ratings have tolerances so one oil at 5/30 may be thinner than another.
This oil is at the thick end of the tolerance.
It will also clean up the inside of the engine and help with lifter noise.
Won't cure all but will buy time.
Good luck
Quote from: Barry M Wheeler #2189 on February 08, 2018, 01:53:58 PM
I am wondering what might occur if I put a half can of Bars Leak sealant in the oil and see what happens.
Probably destroy the engine as Barsleak is a radiator sealant, not an oil sealant. ;)
Bruce. >:D
The high mileage oil is a good suggestion.
I've used Lucas oil treatment with great results on minor leaks.
If also get a second opinion.
Could just be valve covers.
Brian
Bruce, you need to visit the "real" world more. BarsLeak is now a brand, not just the radiator sealer. The product I was wondering about is specially designed for the job at hand. I guess that comes from walking around upside down all the time, way over on the underside of planet Earth...
My thought (here in the USA) was the same as Bruce's. Did not realize Bars Leaks now has engine additives as well as radiator stop leak products.
They leak a little. A little. Oil is cheap. A few drops is cheaper yet. It is a low mile car. Put the best oil in the world in it , and it will still have a low mileage engine when it turns 100,000 miles 25 years from now. Or 3 years from now. If you keep throwing money at a 4.9 every time you see a drop of oil , you better own an oil well to keep paying for the same old thing over and over again. I have plenty of 4.9 miles , and I like them a lot. Great low end torque. And the transmissions have never given me any grief , unlike the 4T80E which is hooked up to the N'stars. But the 4.9 does leak a little oil. AND DO NOT TRY TO OVER TIGHTEN THE PAN BOLTS ! Take them to spec torque ONLY ! This is not a conventional pan gasket set up. There are little "collars" which inhibit gasket squeeze.
Relax , man. Start using Amsoil Z-Rod. For you , in your situation, with this engine , I recommend a 50/50 mix of the 2 grades of Z-Rod. The mix will give you a 15W/40. The preservation of engine internals will save you enough money to pay for whatever re-sealing you will need when that oil well of yours can no longer keep up with the drips. Oh , and make sure to carry a water pump with you at all times. And have a local 4.9 expert show you how to do the waterpump replacement short cut. As always , the disclaimer : I have absolutely no connection whatsoever to Amsoil. I just use their lubricants. If anyone can show me better , I will drop A'oil faster than you can say "Seville". Did you want me to tell you about the astonishing handling improvement you can inflict on these cars simply by proper front tire selection ? - Cadillac Carl