39' Series 61 clutch lever assy

[curtmacd]

Well, finally freed up my clutch and brake pedal assy on my 61 series, while installing a complete new brake system. The clutch shaft was fairly easy, but the brake arm was really stuck after years of sitting. I was finally able to remove the wire snap ring, work the brake arm off and polish the shaft, polish the brass bushing and reinstall it.
However, when everything is moving and working properly, I have noticed a slack issue with the clutch operation. The "U" shaped transfer bracket that attaches to the transmission and over to the upper frame, has a lot of slack in it where it pivots. My question, what type of bushing or bearing goes there? Right now, it just rattles when the clutch is applied and causes the driver to press the pedal further, due to taking up the slight slack. I can get a picture or a short video to post if needed?
I'm not sure what the "U" shape bracket is called, so it makes it difficult to find parts! I know I can fabricate a new section with a sealed bearing, but I would really like to know if there is a repair kit available before I unbolt the pivot pin from the top frame rail and remove the bracket.
Thanks folks!

[Jay Friedman]

The "U-shaped bracket" is called by Cadillac the "Clutch Release Relay Lever", which in '39 is part number 142 9978.  It rotates on the frame side on the "Relay Lever Stud or Support", part number 350 5169.  It rotates on the transmission side on the "Clutch Relay Lever Ball Stud", part number 142 9991 and the "Bearing or Bushing For Stud", part number 1429676.  You probably would have to get these parts from a parts car or a dealer.  I'm not aware of a repair kit.

Two other wear points are the 2 clevis pins at the top of the "U" arms, which can be bought or made.   

If you send me your postal address I'll snail mail you a photocopy of a drawing of the clutch linkage parts taken from a Cadillac Master Parts List.  (I don't know how to post photos on this web site.)

[Tom Boehm]

Hello Curt, On the outer frame side, there should be a bushing between the stud which mounts to the frame and the hole in the end of the U shaped part. I think it was rubber originally. I tried making some from rubber but it was too soft and allowed the U part to move out of position. I made a bushing out of Delrin plastic and it worked great. It was stiff enough to only allow the part to pivot the way it is supposed to. It took the play out of it. I took a cylindrical piece and drilled a hole the right size in the center. Then I mounted it in my drill press with a bolt the same size as the hole. I used a wood lathe tool to shave the outer diameter to the right size. Everything was frozen stuck on my 40 Lasalle. Sounds just like your 39-61. I have never seen this bushing for sale in any material. That is why I made it.

[Tom Boehm]

Jay I have the same picture but I too have never been successful posting pictures on this site. The screen goes blank after I click on "post".

[Brad Ipsen CLC #737]

Attached is the picture of the parts out of the MPL.  McMaster-Carr has a bushing with a shell/rubber/brass bushing very similar to the original but the OD is bigger than the original OD.  This requires a rebore of the U bracket.  I have done this but like the sound of Tom's Delrin plastic better.  The harder one is part AF which is very soft metal with a spherical shape on the ID.  Parts cars is the only solution that I have come up with.

If you have a computer file of the picture very easy to attach.  Hit the browse button below the reply block.  Find the file and click on it.  The file path with show in the Attach block.  Done.

[curtmacd]

Jay, Tom and Brad.....you guys are awesome! Thank you so much for the expertise.

Brad thanks again for the link AND the spindle you shipped me! I have removed the right front spindle in preparation for the new spindle as I wait for the new king pin kit which should be here today. I will press in the new 7/8 bushings and be on my way.

As I am looking at the diagram, I have slack at two positions. Obviously the one I spoke of at the stud position "A", then another at the flat rod "AD" where it attaches to the clutch pedal. The flat bar will be an easy weld and re-drill. I will remove the clutch release relay lever and install the plastic as suggested. Fitting the piece should not be an issue, once I have it off and in my hand.

I'm getting anxious guys! New fuel tank and lines, all new brake system and now working through some existing concerns before the car was parked, to make it drive better. I have new seats, steering wheel refurbished, headliner and carpet to install, so I am anxious to drive it around the block and get started on the interior!!

[curtmacd]

ALSO, where is the best place to purchase the rubber bumpers "H" for the clutch pedal and brake pedal?

[Jay Friedman]

I have slack at two positions. Obviously the one I spoke of at the stud position "A", then another at the flat rod "AD" where it attaches to the clutch pedal. The flat bar will be an easy weld and re-drill.

The slack at the point where the flat bar AD ("Clutch Pedal to Relay Lever Rod" in Cadillac-speak) attaches to the clutch pedal can be due either to the hole in the bar having been worn to an oval shape or wear on the clevis pin that goes in the hole or both. 

Concerning the bar, an alternative is to just make a new one.  I think the bar is 3/4" x 3/16" cold-rolled steel (at least it is on my '49 Cad) that can be bought in a hardware store or on Amazon, as follows:

https://www.amazon.com/RMP-Rolled-Carbon-Steel-Length/dp/B01JKBLFIA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1517247704&sr=8-8&keywords=3%2F4+x+3%2F16+1018+bar

Then all you'd have to do is drill 2 new holes: 3/8" (.375") if I remember and maybe round off the end corners a bit.

As for the clevis pin, if it is worn these can be pressed out and a new one pressed in.  A problem I ran into when doing this on my '49 is that all commercially available 3/8" clevis pins I could find were actually .370" in diameter and not .375", which, of course, would not work.  I ended up making new clevis pins .376 (or .377, I forget) on a lathe so as to have a press fit.

Keep us posted.

[Tom Boehm]

Hello Curt, Steele Rubber has the Part "H" air seal on the end of the pedal arm. Also I still have the larger piece of Delrin I used. I can send you a piece free if you PM me your address.

[curtmacd]

I will Jay. I will disassemble the assembly by tomorrow evening and determine what exactly is worn at the clevis pin location. Also taking Tom's approach and advise and ordering some Delrin plastic stock material on Amazon and sizing for the bushing. I'm really focused on making this assembly function as it should. I just ordered the pedal bumpers and pedal pads from Caddy Daddy. I want the controls smooth and flawless for years to come. I'll post more when I discover the flat bar / clevis pin situation. Fortunately, the fit at the ball stud is super tight and smooth.

[curtmacd]

Hello Curt, Steele Rubber has the Part "H" air seal on the end of the pedal arm. Also I still have the larger piece of Delrin I used. I can send you a piece free if you PM me your address.

That would be great Tom. I will PM you now and cover all costs. Thank you!

[Jay Friedman]

Curt, my '49's clutch linkage was in awful shape some years ago, so I took it all apart and renewed or replaced as much of the components as I could.  Even the bushing in the pedal was worn to the point that the pedal wobbled on its shaft and scraped the side of the floorboard hole and rubber bushing.  Anyway, after everything was fixed a step on the pedal actually released the clutch the way it was supposed to and the car became fun to drive again.  Filthy job but, as they say, someone had to do it.

[curtmacd]

Pulled apart the clutch linkage. Welded up the holes in the flat bar and redrilled. Acquired 2 new pins.  Reamed the U bracket so I can size in a new Delrin plastic bushing that Tom sent me....Thanks again Tom! And the pin on the pivot block was also worn on one side, so I decided to cut it off flush with the block and drill and tap to a 3/8-16. I then cut a grade 8 bolt to the proper length which will only allow the smooth shoulder to be exposed. I now have the ID and OD measurements I need to drill and turn my Delrin material. This clutch should be smoooooooth as silk now!

[curtmacd]

Here it is Tom, nice smooth tight fit with the Delrin plastic bushing. Can't wait to get it back together!

[Tom Boehm]

Hello Curt, I'm glad it worked out for you. Somebody passed that tip on to me when I was restoring my chassis. Thanks for posting the picture.