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Timing on Cadillac 500

Started by Loveofclassics78, February 04, 2018, 11:01:28 AM

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TJ Hopland

So you did turn the crank so the pulley mark aligned with zero?    And then pulled the timing cover again and looked at the sprocket marks?   How did they look?   My guess is not much different.     

Did you try and see how much just the pulley would move with the bolts slightly loose?  I would guess there is some slop available there too that may explain some difference. 

I suspect you are fine and don't need to worry about it.   I had a car one time I spend weeks trying to figure it out before I realized I didn't care.   I just ended up setting the timing by ear and feel anyway.

If you really want to know the only way to know for sure without removing a head is a piston stop.   The idea with these is you remove a spark plug 1 or 4.  You then turn the crank to within say 2 inches of the zero mark.  Install the stop tool and by hand spin the bolt down till it hits the piston.  Turn the crank away from the zero mark then bring it back slowly till it stops on the bolt.  Mark that point on the pulley.  Do it a few times to make sure its stopping at the same point.   Next spin the crank away from zero around the other direction till it hits the stop again and mark it.  Same as before repeat a couple times to make sure.   Remove the stop.  Now you have 2 marks on the pulley.   Measure the distance between the 2 marks and find the center.  The center point is true TDC. 



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900189?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgvyalYuP2QIVBbbACh3R9AiuEAQYASABEgL3bvD_BwE
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

Loveofclassics78

I did turn the crank a few degrees to the zero mark on the pulley. And I mark the other spot just in case, but don't think I will need it. Since the it was such a few degrees difference, as you said, it won't make that much of a difference. Funny thing is, I have a piston stop. It's sitting around here somewhere in my tool!.  Didn't pull the timing cover back off. Replacing the chain with the engine in car was a lil tricky and I got everything sealed up pretty good.  I checked my marks by peering through the distributor hole and the fuel pump hole.  LOL.

By the way, has anyone ordered anything from MTSl lately? Looks like they changed their website.

DeVille68

Quote from: Loveofclassics78 on February 05, 2018, 11:51:34 AM
By the way, has anyone ordered anything from MTSl lately? Looks like they changed their website.

I just ordered pistons, camshaft, springs, lifters etc. for my 68 472. They are still in business but call themself: https://cadillachighperformance.com/
They want to offer parts for the newer Cadillacs too. 
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

Bobby B

Quote from: Loveofclassics78 on February 05, 2018, 11:51:34 AM
I did turn the crank a few degrees to the zero mark on the pulley. And I mark the other spot just in case, but don't think I will need it. Since the it was such a few degrees difference, as you said, it won't make that much of a difference. Funny thing is, I have a piston stop. It's sitting around here somewhere in my tool!.  Didn't pull the timing cover back off. Replacing the chain with the engine in car was a lil tricky and I got everything sealed up pretty good.  I checked my marks by peering through the distributor hole and the fuel pump hole.  LOL.

Use a Degree Wheel along with a piston stop if you want real accuracy. This will tell you exactly where you are. I would've done this with the timing cover off just to make sure all was good before buttoning it up.
                                                                               Bobby
1947 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible Coupe
1968 Mustang Convertible
1973 Mustang Convertible
1969 Jaguar E-Type Roadster
1971 Datsun 240Z
1979 H-D FLH