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1940 LaSalle Dash

Started by Sardaukar 88mm, November 11, 2013, 02:26:17 PM

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Sardaukar 88mm

Just got done installing this part of the dash; I removed the original thin metal "in-between" panel and replaced it with stained basswood. Got extremely lucky on the color of the stain matching the blue/grey interior! The original was badly rusted and had been painted black with something that did not adhere at all to metal. Now looks way better; unfortunately I do not have a "before" picture that accurately shows the original look.

The clock I think is the original one, it is made by Jaeger. I believe it has seized up. Hooking it up to power is doable, and it ticks intermittently, but as it was 6v and the system is now 12v I don't want to power it until I can have it cleaned up and working. I believe I will just install a battery inside it since I have to shut the car battery off every time the engine is off or it will drain itself. Not sure what that's about.

The original knob for the shifter I am also replacing with a slightly smaller wooden knob, currently drying its stain and lacquer coat. The original is starting to crack and I'd rather put it up until I can redo it.

Hope you like the work; I'm curious to know what was originally there. Was it just black paint? Or chrome?

joeceretti

It looks nice to me. i don't know about the originality/authenticity but am wondering about the battery drain. Have you replaced the wiring harness?

Sardaukar 88mm

I have not at this time; certainly something I am looking into. My guess is that when the car was switched over to a 12v system nobody had an original wiring diagram. While the voltage regulator takes care of converting all power properly, I'm betting something is grounded where it shouldn't be and this is causing the battery drain. Simply put, whoever did the work did enough to get the new 12v alternator, starter, and A/C system in, and once it worked probably called it quits. The battery has a cutoff switch wired in so it's easy to shut off. Gotta save up to get it properly addressed, though.

The A/C system was bulky, ugly, and didn't work anyway since the condenser was placed under the car in front of the left rear tire. I took the whole thing out.

Pics of the battery and hideous climate control unit. I did keep the heater. A friend of mine said it wouldn't work because the heater core was "probably burned out in a car that old." It just wasn't hooked up to power.

joeceretti

Have you considered switching it back to 6V? The run and start GREAT with a new harness and good grounds.

Those heaters work pretty well. The blower motors are available, if you need one I can give you the info on where I got my new replacement. Also, the casing for it is not the correct color.

I am posting a quote from Brad Ipsen regarding the color of these heaters, "One kind is darker brown and the other is a dark green brown.  Both have very fine metallic. "

Mine was rusty grey when I got the car. I then painted it black because it's what I had. Now I have to take it out and repaint it again, which isn't bad because I've scratched up the black paint working on the wiring under the dash.

Sardaukar 88mm

I'm coming around to the conclusion that I would like to switch it back, but again, the money is a bit tight right now. I'm also probably going to move in the near future, but the Army hasn't told me where yet, so...

The heater has a giant metal fan behind it. I don't know if this is the blower motor or a compromise to get it to work! The underseat heaters exist, but their hoses have been cut; I presume they ran to the radiator hoses in some fashion. What I really, honestly need is an expert to look the old man over and tell what has been replaced and why. My "mechanic" buddy is fine with new Mustangs and that sort of thing, but has no feel for the culture of the pre-war years and thus his understanding of how this vehicle works, and why, is way off. Not that I'm any expert, either, but I do at least have a decade of study behind the period. The fact that his pride actively prevents him from reading a manual doesn't help, either. In order to remain friends I've pretty much banned him from any work on it.

As for finances, I perhaps in truth shouldn't have gotten it just yet. But it was available, my wife said we had the money for it (which we do), and I'm pretty sure I saved it from some schmuck who would've dropped a big block chevy motor into it and chopped it up. It runs very well and I don't drive it often. I'm happy with its condition but like to improve what I can little by little.

So, given that the starter motor is not original, could it be switched back to the 6v? I have the original generator, though I haven't tested it yet. There might be a reason it was switched over in the first place? So many questions...

joeceretti

#5
Here are the correct part numbers for you to reference for the future if you do decide to switch it back.

Generator 1102661
Regulator 1118202
Starter 1107912
Distributor 1110806
Ignition Coil 1115128
Carburetor Carter 423S and then superseded by Carter 460S
Fuel Pump 521
Windshield Wiper Motor Trico SSM-20 Superseded by Trico SS20

At least you can check if these parts are correct. You don't need all these to switch back to 6V in the future but my book has all these together so I thought I should include them. I also don't have any idea about what is easily available vs what is next to impossible to find.

I have also found it next to impossible to find a local mechanic who has even the slightest clue regarding authenticity. There are a few CLC members near me who have been very kind with their assistance and also some of the members here, not local to me, have been generous as well. Just trying to pass it along.