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Crankshaft Hub Puller for Cadillac 500

Started by Loveofclassics78, August 24, 2017, 08:27:21 AM

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Loveofclassics78

Good morning!  Does anyone have a custom made puller/installer or perhaps a used factory puller/installer to remove the crankshaft hub off a 500? I am looking to buy!  Thanks!

The Tassie Devil(le)

A normal puller will do the task, but make sure you don't damage the 9/16" UNF threaded hole in the centre of the crankshaft.

As for an Installer, I made my own using a long 9/16" UNF threaded rod, and with a nut wound up the thread, and a heavy duty washer between the nut and the hub, wound the hub back on.

Then I inserted a shorter 9/16" UNF bolt with a heavy duty washer into the crankshaft end to retain the hub tight, and to act as a means of manually turning the crankshaft in the future.

Bruce. >:D

PS.   There is a piece of cork inserted in the thread by the factory when new, to protect the thread from rusting.
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Loveofclassics78

Thanks Bruce.  I was worried about using a normal remover.  I do have the bolt on order for installation.

Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373

Yep, Bruce has it.
I just left my bolt in there to turn the crankshaft in the future. I put a little antisieze on it.
I think Scot Minesinger has a detailed post on how he did his with a threaded rod.
When done paint the rod the correct shade of blue before you put it on the shelf as you have just made a genuine Cadillac accessory tool.
Jeff
Jeff Rosansky
CLC #28373
1970 Coupe DeVille (Big Red)
1955 Series 62 (Baby Blue)
Dad's new 1979 Coupe DeVille


Loveofclassics78

Thanks for the answers. I bought this threaded rod with the 9/16 UNF thread, but the rod was too big.  Did I buy the right one?


The Tassie Devil(le)

From reading the label, you have the correct thread and pitch, so there is no reason, apart for the length as to why it won't thread in the hole.

You have removed the cork plug from the crankshaft?

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Loveofclassics78

Yes. Cork removed. There must be a specific diameter?

The Tassie Devil(le)

All the ones I have here are 9/16" UNF.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Glen

According to my chart 9/16 18 is fine thread.  12 tpi would be course thread. 
Maybe someone use the wrong tool and damaged the threads. 
Glen Houlton CLC #727 
CLCMRC benefactor #104

Loveofclassics78

#10
Well, it's not the threads that are presenting an issue, it's just that the rod is too large to fit into the hole where the threads are. Like I may need to try a 1/2 fine thread. Is it possible that some crank threads could be different?  That and keeping the crank from turning while removing the hub has become a PITA!

The Tassie Devil(le)

#11
I doubt it very much, as all the cranks would be machined to the same tolerances and measurements as every other 500 or 472 crank.

If there were differences, the factory would have two different pullers/installers for the same task.

There is the possibility that someone in the past used a puller to remove the flange without protecting the thread, and thereby distorting the end of the thread, thus stopping you from installing the correct thread.

Sounds like you need to obtain, or borrow, a 9/16" UNF tap and run it down the thread to clean it out.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Loveofclassics78

Understood. I purchased a thread chaser/restored set (Lang 2581).  Going to run the 9/16-18 through the snout and clean up the threads. Hopefully, this will help. I will update soon!

Loveofclassics78

Update:

The thread chaser is a no go, because there aren't any front threads to grab onto.  I'm going to try a 9/16-18 taper tap and see if I can get just a few threads on the shaft just to start the chaser.  Then do the rest with the chaser because I don't want to create new threads.  I hope this works.   If this doesn't work, looks like I may have to rethread the crank shaft, which is not bad to do, but I really don't want to.  Thanks everyone!

Loveofclassics78


The Tassie Devil(le)

Great!

What was the actual problem?   A butchered thread?

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Loveofclassics78

Yes.  You guys called it.  The first few threads were gone due to a improper puller.  I used a 9/16 taper tap to start a few threads, then finished the rest with a chaser.  New bolt and rod are going in great.  My job continues on.

The Tassie Devil(le)

Great news.

I hate it when someone uses the wrong tools and destroys something in the process.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

"Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364

I for one am glad I bit the bullet years ago and bought the Kent Moore J21052 tool (it is still available albeit some $560.00).  It makes pulling the hub or installing it a 2 or three minute job with no busted knuckles and not having to hold the motor from rotating.  For anyone anticipating doing this task more than 3 or 4 times in the future it would (IMHO) be money well spent. 
Greg Surfas
Cadillac Kid-Greg Surfas
Director Modified Chapter CLC
CLC #15364
66 Coupe deVille (now gone to the UK)
72 Eldo Cpe  (now cruising the sands in Quatar)
73 Coupe deVille
75 Coupe deElegance
76 Coupe deVille
79 Coupe de ville with "Paris" (pick up) option and 472 motor
514 inch motor now in '73-

Loveofclassics78

I did see that tool. It is pricey for a one time job!

Question: When taking the hub off with the puller, how did you guys keep the
Crank from turning? I have a bolt inside the crank to protect the threads.