Recent Posts

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1
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1939 LaSalle VERY Dim Lighting
« Last post by Steve Passmore on Today at 03:59:16 AM »
My first port of call would be the 'biometric strip' and points on the back of the light switch. They can become corroded.
2
General Discussion / Re: A truly international, welcoming club
« Last post by DeVille68 on Today at 03:47:23 AM »
it is all about the hobby we love and letting the others enjoy their way of live too.  :)
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Want To Buy / 1955 or 1956 factory AC vents and tubes
« Last post by mirrormatic on Today at 01:32:12 AM »
need exterior rear fender vents and large plastic tubes on package tray
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Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1956 VIN locations
« Last post by CadillacRob on Yesterday at 11:47:53 PM »
I'll try some solvents and report back! 8)
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Technical / Authenticity / 1939 LaSalle VERY Dim Lighting
« Last post by bcroe on Yesterday at 11:37:50 PM »
If you just start changing stuff without FIRST identifying the fault,
you might accidentally make it go away, only to return later.  Or
there may actually be multiple problems. 

I would suggest using a good meter to walk around the circuit,
to find the exact fault or faults.  Tie one lead (with a perhaps
long lead, no voltage loss for a voltmeter) directly to the battery
positive, and walk the other lead down the current path to the
operating headlight.  The total drop should best be kept below
1/4 volt, but as you cross the fault, there will be a big voltage
increase.  A ground fault is less likely, but continue around the
path back to the battery.  The voltage at the headlight grounded
terminal should be within 1/10 volt of the voltage back at the
battery. 

Once the area of the fault is identified, use the meter to find
the exact spot.  It could be a combination of battery grounds,
inadequate power wiring, and the switch (the meter tells all). 
Bruce Roe  CLC # 14630
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General Discussion / Re: 5% Discount from Hagerty for CLC Members
« Last post by cadillacmike68 on Yesterday at 11:11:14 PM »
Iím in CA too; at least I wasnít missing out on something I was entitled to all these years.  Might not get the discount, but at least I get to drive my cars year round.

I can do that here in Florida too and without a crushing state income tax.
7
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1956 Engine Compartment
« Last post by kkarrer on Yesterday at 10:39:55 PM »
Semi-gloss black is correct for the underhood paint.  The correct insulator mat is available from a guy on e-bay.  I've bought about 6 of them from him over the years for the 55-56 cars that I've restored. Don't be tempted to get the cheapies that are of burlap or fiberglass.  Also, be sure to use the good 3M spray glue and spray both the hood and the pad.  Get a helper to hold the pad in place and mark the outside edges with a erasable marker or masking tape. That way you'll know how far to spray your glue.  You do want to get pretty close to the edge of the pad.  Allow the glue to set up for about 15 min. depending upon temperature, then start at the front-most part of the pad, letting the pad hang down (so that you can pivot it if necessary) and work your way back.  If you've left your tape or pen marks on the hood, you'll know if you're where you want to be as you affix the pad to the hood.  Last word of caution here... if you've just rebuilt the engine, start it first and be sure the timing etc. is correct.  Sometimes starting a new engine can produce a big hiccup from the engine that can include a fire ball and that can ignite your new hood pad...the result will not be what you had in mind when you said,"let's fire up the engine!"
Take care,
Ken Karrer
CenTex Reg. Dir.
8
Rich,
Thanks for the pics.
The car looks like my XLR on steroids - same color - and I like it ( more places for peeps to sit).
However, the top bow placement isn't quite right to keep the sleek lines.
The bows are too sharply prominent and need to be more padded to soften the lines.
There needs to be a couple straps - each side of the rear window - to keep that area from sagging.
Purchasing a Cadillac should reflect something new in design (maybe a hint of iconoclasm) - I don't recall anybody saying they would kick a CIEL out of their garage - although didn't have a "for Real Top" when debuted - didn't have to, to catch the excitement of the concept and design.
Have fun,
Steve B.

Steve -- very much agree with you on the top.  It looks terrible -- like a
cheap conversion.  Also, as another previous poster pointed out
there is more to making a convertible than just chopping the top off. 
Lots of body structural engineering to get it right.

For example, the 1955 convertibles had a massive brace on the
frame that also added 500 extra pounds of weight.  I'm not saying
that's a solution for today, but it worked in 1955.  There are more
elegant solutions and more modern materials than back in the 50's
that can be used.

However, I doubt most "conversion coach" builders have the
know-how to do that.  Cadillac could, of course, but I don't
believe the marketplace would respond with sufficient sales to
make it worthwhile.  The XLR was a great looking car, but quickly
developed a reputation for many troublesome problems.  Same
with the Allante.

Being as pricey as they were back then, that didn't fly well with
the public and the equation high price + low quality = slim sales.

Mike
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Technical / Authenticity / Re: Electrical Problem 1939 Lasalle Won't Start
« Last post by tturley on Yesterday at 07:37:57 PM »
Good looking LaSalle
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Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1959 Cadillac heater core and valve
« Last post by Bobby B on Yesterday at 07:36:40 PM »

Does anyone re-core/repair these or am I better off buying new?
Thanks!


I wouldn't even think of repairing that core if a new one was available. I think your radiator shop would be telling you the same thing.
                                                                                             Bobby
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