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My new A6 Compressor arrived today

Started by chrisntam, August 17, 2017, 08:02:34 PM

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chrisntam

As some may know, the front seal on my 2 1/2 year old rebuilt A6 (R12) is leaking oil pretty good out of the front seal.

I decided to buy a new A6 (plug and play, so to speak), I got a 4 Seasons 58088 from Rock Auto, cost was around $440 or so.  Prior to buying, I contacted tech support at 4 Seasons to talk to them about the compressor.

The Rock Auto info says it comes with PAG 150 oil (for R134), tech support corroborated that and also said to just drain the oil and put 11 ounces of mineral oil in it.  The guy mighta thought that was the oil for the entire system.....

It arrived today, it appears to be a "re-box", does not appear to be a 4 Seasons product, says its an "Alma Product" from Alma, Michigan,  it needs metric fasteners  >:(, but it does say it comes pre-charged with 3 ounces of mineral oil, says its for use with R12 and says its made in the USA.

Why, if it's made in the USA, would it have metric fasteners?

I suppose it saying it's for R12 is better than being for R134 (since I use R12) and it's better that it already has the right oil in it, but I'm a little stunned about the metric fasteners.

When I had the Turbo 400 rebuilt, I bought a rebuilt torque converter (provided by the local transmission shop), it too had metric fasteners.

I guess I'm a little stunned that it's new, "made in America" and metric fasteners.....

Hmmmmmm.

Now an added trip to the hardware store.

::)

1970 Deville Convertible 
Dallas, Texas

Dan LeBlanc

If I recall correctly replacing the A6 will require 6 ounces of oil to properly replace the oil lost replacing the compressor.

Remember, add the oil and leave the compressor standing on the clutch so to speak to allow the oil to wet the front seal. Then rotate the compressor 10 times before installing. Once installed do another 20 rotations or so to prime things. Pull your vacuum, add 2 lbs of liquid refrigerant through the high side port and then charge the remaining 2 lbs of refrigerant as a gas through the low side port.

I just installed a compressor that was sitting idle since 1975 removed when the car was totalled with 20k miles on it after flushing the old oil out if it with no issues. It is silent and cold running in R12. Now my POA is stuck open and the evaporator is freezing but that's a project for this winter.
Dan LeBlanc
1977 Lincoln Continental Town Car

R S Steven

Chrisntam,
The compressor is built in Alma Michigan.  Alma Products bought the tooling for the compressor when GM decided to stop building them.  I believe the reason for the metric fastener is that at the end of GM's production of the compressor all their cars would have had metric fasteners.  So in order to prevent mixing up fasteners in the plant they would want all components to use metric fasteners. 



"Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364

Chris,
Unless you have already gone ahead, this would be a god opportunity to be sure your system has the proper TOTAL quantity f oil (11 ounces) distributed as the shop manual indicates throughout the system.  Lack of lubricant is the greatest kipper of shaft seals, and the oil "leaves" with the refrigerant. Invest in a set of O rings and blow out the evaporator and condenser.  You would normally change the dryer so you can put the proper quantity of oil there before it is reinstalled. Distribution is just as important as total quantity, since all the components depend upon oil for operation.
In regards to the Metric, remember in the late 70's Metric" was the thing, and my '79 had all the metric bolts painted blue to aid the mechanics.  For the last 3 decades I have gotten a mixed bag of metric/SAE "bolted" compressors and have a stock of both bolts ready for my next surprise.
Greg Suerfas
Cadillac Kid-Greg Surfas
Director Modified Chapter CLC
CLC #15364
66 Coupe deVille (now gone to the UK)
72 Eldo Cpe  (now cruising the sands in Quatar)
73 Coupe deVille
75 Coupe deElegance
76 Coupe deVille
79 Coupe de ville with "Paris" (pick up) option and 472 motor
514 inch motor now in '73-

chrisntam

#4
Dan - Thanks for the advice on the oil and adding the Freon.  Two pounds thru the high side?  I always thought it should go in thru the low side.  FSM suggests to measure the oil from the compressor being replaced and add to the new oil according to how much is removed.

R S - Thanks for the fill in information on the compressor.  I contacted 4 Seasons, Alma is one of their suppliers.  The metric fasteners info makes sense, but I'm not a fan....

Greg - I may take your advice on verifying the amount of oil in the system given the leakage I've encountered.  I may already have all the needed O-rings.   Not too thrilled with opening up the other connections, I "think" they are sealed well and given my luck, I'll have a problem resealing them.  Couple of questions:

1) Just put some mineral oil on the o-rings and snug up the connections really well? 
2) Rubber tipped blow gun on one end and red rag to catch what comes out?  Same thing with the evap?
3) When blowing, go with the direction of the flow?  Or does it matter?
4) Do I "need" to use flush?  I did buy a drier and a expansion valve, was on the fence about installing the exp valve, again, wasn't thrilled with opening what I really didn't "want" to.
5) Should I take this opportunity to replace all the hoses?  They look to be in good shape and I like that they are original, even though a lot under the hood is not.  Who makes up the hoses?
6) I should just leave the super heat switch in to be used as a "plug"?

The 4 Seasons tech suggested to drain the oil shipped with the compressor and add new to it (via the drain plug.  Good idea?  He said not to put any in through the valves, even though the sticker on the compressor says "add oil here" (at the valves).

The "old" compressor is functioning just fine, just losing oil out the front.  I am mildly concerned that the system may be low on oil given the leakage and the fact that when it was originally charged 2.5 yrs ago, I found maybe an ounce or two of oil on the intake below the rear connections.

I only have maybe 1200 or so miles on the car and the ac compressor was on maybe 25% of the time.
1970 Deville Convertible 
Dallas, Texas

Jon S

Why not swap the metric bolts with the SAE ones on your current unit one at a time before installing it?  Also you can get a Fridgidaire sticker for it.
Jon

1958 Cadillac Sedan De Ville
1973 Lincoln Continental Coupe
1981 Corvette
2004 Mustang GT

chrisntam

The front mount is part of the exterior case, the rear mount is part of the back plate.  Given my hesitancy for opening up the rest of the system, I'm sure not going to open the new compressor!

I'll get the metric bolts, that's a great idea about painting them blue - that will serve as a "reminder"!
1970 Deville Convertible 
Dallas, Texas

"Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364

Don't mess with the compressor. Buy 4 metric bolts.
Greg Surfas
Cadillac Kid-Greg Surfas
Director Modified Chapter CLC
CLC #15364
66 Coupe deVille (now gone to the UK)
72 Eldo Cpe  (now cruising the sands in Quatar)
73 Coupe deVille
75 Coupe deElegance
76 Coupe deVille
79 Coupe de ville with "Paris" (pick up) option and 472 motor
514 inch motor now in '73-

Dan LeBlanc

The two lbs of liquid refrigerant will go straight through to the condenser. This was advice from Greg on one of my posts about a.c.  and it worked like a charm when I did mine a couple of weeks ago. I did the rest as a gas on the low side until the sight glass was clear.
Dan LeBlanc
1977 Lincoln Continental Town Car

chrisntam

Thanks Dan & Greg, I read the FSM last night, it too says 2 lbs thru the high side (while under vacuum).  Prolly won't get to it this weekend, got other stuff to do and need to gather a few more items.

chris.
1970 Deville Convertible 
Dallas, Texas