Recent posts

#1

Want To Buy - Parts / Re: Looking to purchase 390 en...

Last post by Johnny-Bones - Today at 10:33:40 AM

Trying to buy a ready rebuilt painted engine and trans seams like a big ask.

I have about $8000 into rebuilding my engine and trans and that does not include actual cost of an engine and trans core.

It may be that you are hoping to buy off of someone who has paid for it and given up when they get to bodywork.


Can you give an idea of the price you are willing to pay.

Sent you a PM

#2

Restoration Corner / Re: New engine for my LaSalle.

Last post by harry s - Today at 10:28:56 AM

You could split the difference and use grade 5 bolts along with a four point attachment to the engine and be fine. Keep us posted.    Harry

#3

General Discussion / Re: Goodbye & thanks.

Last post by wrefakis - Today at 09:35:29 AM

Suggestion do not pay 25$ register on bring a trailer for 0$,and join the other 1000,s of armchair experts,because if 2.08 per month breaks the bank,I doubt you maintain a collection of Cadillacs

#4

Restoration Corner / Re: New engine for my LaSalle.

Last post by 914Driver - Today at 09:21:48 AM

I like the Cavern Moss Green of the 42-48 Cadillac engines over the correct Olive Drab of the LaSalle engines.  As I'm not going to Pebble Beach, I just have to make me happy. 
*After this photo I went back and removed the casting flash and repainted).

[But I have a question:]

#5

Restoration Corner / New engine for my LaSalle.

Last post by 914Driver - Today at 09:14:38 AM

I have a 1940 Series 52, it came with a 322 cube flathead that had a bad repair to the block.  Owner said it was a good job, but the engine is locked up. 

I've rebuilt engines before and this one had all new stuff inside.  Problem is the builder never gapped the rings.  Right from the bag to the piston and in.  Once warmed up, there was no place to expand, soooo .....  I had to use a wooden plug and BFH to drive it out.  The cylinders were pitted from sitting that .030 over didn't clean them up.  The crack in the block was between the valves and cylinder (looking down at the top of the block).  The Napa machinist said he could repair the repair, but gave it a 30% chance of success.

 I found a 346 from a 1942 Caddy and dragged it home.

The poor engine did not have the optional oil filter, ugly, caked on burnt oil and carbon kept it from leaking oil.    So a month later and more money than expected, I should have it back next week.  The cylinders didn't clean up at .010 or .020 over, so now it's .030 over making it a 352 cube engine.

But I have a question:  The engine-tranny package weighs about 900 lbs.  Using a hoist with the screw thing that allows you to change the center of gravity to tip the tail shaft down and water pump up, do you think the 3/8-16 threads on top would support all that weight?  Tensile strength of the thread for a Grade 2 bole is 4300lbs and 11,600 for grade 8.  I shouldn't be scared; or should I?

#6

Want To Buy - Parts / Re: Looking to purchase 390 en...

Last post by 60eldo - Today at 09:10:28 AM

I have a 59 eng and trans, but needs rebuild,

#7

Want To Buy - Parts / Re: Looking to purchase 390 en...

Last post by Clewisiii - Today at 09:04:16 AM

Trying to buy a ready rebuilt painted engine and trans seams like a big ask.

I have about $8000 into rebuilding my engine and trans and that does not include actual cost of an engine and trans core.

It may be that you are hoping to buy off of someone who has paid for it and given up when they get to bodywork.

Can you give an idea of the price you are willing to pay.

#8

Want To Buy - Parts / Parts needed 1936 Series 60

Last post by Tucker6077 - Today at 08:50:56 AM

Looking for radio knobs and spare tire/side mount mirrors for a 1936 Series 60
Thank You

#9

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1941 Hydra-Matic Transmiss...

Last post by J. Russo - Today at 08:46:55 AM

Diffs are easier to get at than a transmission.

Bruce.

I agree. I replaced my differential pinion seal a few months ago. The hardest part about that job was removing the cup.

#10

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1941 Hydra-Matic Transmiss...

Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Today at 08:42:40 AM

There should be no need for any sealant on the splines at all.   Just put a bit of sealant under the washer and then the thread of the nut.   This way, if you ever need to remove it, you WILL be able to get it off.   

Then I am doing Differentials, I use a bit of Loctite Super Bearing Mount on those splines, as there is nothing worse than any oil leaking out there.   With the Diff, I always use a puller to remove the Yoke.   Diffs are easier to get at than a transmission.

Bruce.