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Window Problem

Started by Rick Biarritz, December 02, 2011, 08:26:56 AM

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Rick Biarritz

Got in my 83 Eldo today, and powered the window down. That was fine, but then it wouldn't go back up. Very cold this morning (26 degrees) and she was parked outside for the first time EVER. Could that have anything to do with it? 

Thanks

Dave Shepherd

Maybe, without checking cuurent to the motor in the up position or current out of the switch, no way to tell, get a rubber hammer and hit the inside of the door at the general area of the motor, lower center of door on the trim pad, do this while holding the switch up, see what happens.

TJ Hopland

My 80 does that sometimes.   When its dead I have got as far as replacing and testing the switch and it tests good so I know the problem is likely the motor itself.  My theory is there is pretty much a dead spot in it and if you happen to land on that dead spot you are just stuck till something jars it enough to get off that spot.  Mine has always recovered within a few hours of quitting.   I have a spare motor but based on how hard it was to remove from the parts car I am not looking forward to replacing it.

Does the passenger side still work?   If not the breaker for these should be self resetting model.  Some will cool off and reset by themselves others require the power to be cycled. 
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

pulteney

If the engine wasn't running when the window failed to work, try it with the engine running. I had a '76 that must have needed the extra voltage (13+) from the alternator instead of the battery voltage (12+) to work. The cold temperature would make it worse, especially if the battery was a little weak. Windows draw a lot of current so there is a sizable drop in voltage due to any extra resistance in the circuit. The same is true of convertible tops. Check all connections before swapping motors.

If you do replace the motor yourself, be careful. Many power window mechanisms have a powerful spring that is under tension that must be relieved to remove the motor.
John Ball

TJ Hopland

This is one of the models that has the spring on the window regulator and it did pop when I removed the motor.  Have not tried to re install one yet so I cant give you the procedure.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

Rick Biarritz

UPDATE!!  Thanks for all the tips, by the way.

Experiment this morning, 25 degrees, engine running, window goes down, but won't come back up.
Come back 3 hours later, temp is 44 degrees, turn the key, but do NOT turn the engine on, and the window did come back up.
That's 2 days in a row with the same results, so I'm guessing it's temp related.
But I didn't think piddly little temps like 25 degrees (notice I did not say NEGATIVE 25 degrees) would affect an electical motor so severely.

TJ Hopland

One thing you could try next time when its not moving is turn on the dome light and watch it as you operate the switch.  IF the motor is trying but just not having enough power to move the window you will likely be able to see the lights dim when you operate the switch.  You could also hit down again to look for the dimming and confirm that power is at least still getting to the switch.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

jaxops

Welcome to the wonderful world of "let's make the car lighter and cheaper to build" where the plasticize everything.  The only thing you can do is replace the window motor as long as there is no obstacle on the track.  I have an 89 Crown Vic and a 97 Town Car and those window motors go bad often.  Too often.  All made by slaves in communist China.
1970 Buick Electra Convertible
1956 Cadillac Series 75 Limousine
1949 Cadillac Series 75 Imperial Limousine
1979 Lincoln Continental
AACA, Cadillac-LaSalle Club #24591, ASWOA