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1966 Cadillac DeVille convertible with a 429 engine, very slow cranking-no start

Started by Chaz, July 11, 2010, 01:31:05 AM

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Chuck Swanson

Great timing on the post.  I couldn't find mine, so I bought a new one this weekend.  I was just getting ready to test this week and was trying to figure out the best approach.  Thanks and I'll let you know the results!

As a side note.  I finally finshed restoring the gas tank today.  Had it cleaned and internally coated at a radiator shop.  When I got back I got rid of exterior rust (convertor/encapsulator/, used some glass on some of the dents.  Primed and painted with Tank Tone zinc paint.  Looks great!
CLC Lifetime
AACA Lifetime
Like 65-66 Club: www.facebook.com/6566Cadillac
66 DeVille Convertible-CLC Sr Wreath, (AACA 1st Jr 2021, Senior 2022, 1st GN 2022 Sr GN 2023), Audrain Concours '22 3rd in Class.
66 Sedan DeVille hdtp
66 Calais pillar sedan
66 Series 75 9-pass limo
65 Eldorado (vert w/bucket seats)
65 Fleetwood
07 DTS w/ Performance pkg.
67 Chevy II Nova (AACA Sr GN 2018)
69 Dodge Coronet R/T

mrspeedyt

gotta throw in the possibility that the timing chain or gear has slipped and valve timing is off. ( hope not for your sake....)
s. twitchell

bcroe

Better yet, connect a voltmeter from the engine block to contacting DIRECTLY on the negative battery post.  Crank the starter and it will read the voltage lost in the ground wiring.  Connect again from the starter to contacting DIRECTLY on the positive battery post.  Crank the starter and it will read the voltage lost in the +12V wiring.  Ideal would total less than a volt.  The voltage might be jumping around quite a bit, so you might want to use an analog (needle) meter.  Bruce Roe

Chuck Swanson

Just a few updates:

Took one of the valve covers off, removed all the spark plugs, and valves are moving up and down fine.  Turns over real nice with all plugs out.

Finally got the distributor loose after spraying some PB (Marked the original location with nail polish).  Took about a 1/2 hour to finally work free. It moves back and forth with ease now.  Put all the plugs back in and same thing, turns over slowly and stops after 3-10 seconds :(  I moved the distributor to various locations, 12 diff spots or so and same thing.  Battery fully charged.  I will do the electrical tests next.  
CLC Lifetime
AACA Lifetime
Like 65-66 Club: www.facebook.com/6566Cadillac
66 DeVille Convertible-CLC Sr Wreath, (AACA 1st Jr 2021, Senior 2022, 1st GN 2022 Sr GN 2023), Audrain Concours '22 3rd in Class.
66 Sedan DeVille hdtp
66 Calais pillar sedan
66 Series 75 9-pass limo
65 Eldorado (vert w/bucket seats)
65 Fleetwood
07 DTS w/ Performance pkg.
67 Chevy II Nova (AACA Sr GN 2018)
69 Dodge Coronet R/T

Wubbywubster

I know this post is very old but I'm having the exact same problem.  l was wondering if you ever solved the problem?

Chuck Swanson

No, I never did resolve that one, but I did remove that engine from that car for a rebuild ;)   Chuck
CLC Lifetime
AACA Lifetime
Like 65-66 Club: www.facebook.com/6566Cadillac
66 DeVille Convertible-CLC Sr Wreath, (AACA 1st Jr 2021, Senior 2022, 1st GN 2022 Sr GN 2023), Audrain Concours '22 3rd in Class.
66 Sedan DeVille hdtp
66 Calais pillar sedan
66 Series 75 9-pass limo
65 Eldorado (vert w/bucket seats)
65 Fleetwood
07 DTS w/ Performance pkg.
67 Chevy II Nova (AACA Sr GN 2018)
69 Dodge Coronet R/T

Fred Zwicker #23106

i had the same problem about  6-8 years ago, so I bought 2 new cables and a new starter from NAPA. I crawled under my 1966 De Ville and after grabbing hold of the long battery cable, discovered it was LOOSE! Since I had already purchased two new cables, I switched over to the new cables anyhow, making sure that the connections were spotlessly cleaned to bare metal and properly tightened. At that point I did NOT install the new started, as had a feeling that the problem was with the cables. I was 100% correct and am still running on the old starter and new cables.  MY car can sit for months and always starts right up every time.

By the way, NAPA has heavier cables available at an up charge, I am a believer that heavier cables will supply more starting amperage than the usual cables that are usually in stock.  This goes back to my pre-war cars that run on 6 volts. On a 6-volt system, a heavier cable is absolutely necessary.  On a 12-volt system, while not necessary, for a few extra dollars, a heavier cable just might be what you need.

I am selling this low-mileage older restoration - See Harwood Motors.com Car won 1st place at the Cleveland CLC Regional Show about 8 or 9 years ago and has been stored in our car museum since. See www.tipcars.us          Fred

1930 LaSalle Convertible Coupe, CCCA Senior
1939 LaSalle 2-Dr. Conv.  CLC Senior in 2008
1940 Cadillac Series 75 4 Dr. Convertible
1947 Cadillac Series 62 Convertible Coupe
1948 Cadillac Convertible - modified by Holly (driver)
1966 Cadillac DeVille Conv. Restored - Red
See Pictures at www.tpcarcollection.com

Scot Minesinger

I agree with Geoff, same thing has happened to me as you and his suggestion is what I would have typed.  It is so easy; one jumper cable from battery ground to starter - please report back.  If the starter spins the engine fine with all belts and spark plugs in place you know this is the problem and that is easy to cure.  This symptom can seem like a bad starter and other issues. 

BTW, be sure oil pump is primed.
Fairfax Station, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

Maynard Krebs

My experience taught me to obtain rebuilt starters and alternators at a place near me that does the rebuilds in-house AND specializes in these items for big trucks, busses, and big construction equipment.   Those businesses NEED quality and reliability.   

I have never once had a problem with this place for which I do business.   I strongly recommend that all car owners buy from such establishments.