1939 LaSalle Radiator

39lasalle · July 04, 2017, 08:31:05 AM

I have a leak in the center of my radiator, it is a small leak but I want to get it fixed.

I thought I read ( and searched to no luck) that these radiators were difficult or almost impossible to repair. We do have a great radiator shop in town, obviousky closed today.

Wanted to know thoughts before I pulled it out?

Thanks

39

Bobby B · July 04, 2017, 09:18:19 AM

It can be repaired. Have it flow tested while you're at it, to make sure it's in good condition
Bobby

Bill Ingler #7799 · July 04, 2017, 02:29:05 PM

Bobby is correct in that it can be repaired BUT since you say the leak is in the middle, then it sounds like it is corrosion with probably more leaks to follow. If it is the original core then you would be better off to put in a new core. A flow test to a radiator shop is plugging the bottom radiator outlet, filling the radiator then pulling the plug at the bottom of radiator. If the outflow of water from that outlet is filling the circumference of that opening, then the radiator shop will say that the radiator passes the flow test. In the case of my 41, the radiator shop said it passed the flow test but when I put the radiator back in the car, the car ran hot. Removed the radiator and then the top tank of the radiator. Had some tubes plugged and the rest were open but sediment build up limited the flow through those tubes. Radiator shop said the could rod the tubes. Not a good idea to rod a 60 year old core. I elected to put in a new core and never had a problem with the car running hot here in Arizona. Bill

Bobby B · July 04, 2017, 02:57:17 PM

Quote from: Bill Ingler #7799 on July 04, 2017, 02:29:05 PM
Bobby is correct in that it can be repaired BUT since you say the leak is in the middle, then it sounds like it is corrosion with probably more leaks to follow. If it is the original core then you would be better off to put in a new core. A flow test to a radiator shop is plugging the bottom radiator outlet, filling the radiator then pulling the plug at the bottom of radiator. If the outflow of water from that outlet is filling the circumference of that opening, then the radiator shop will say that the radiator passes the flow test. In the case of my 41, the radiator shop said it passed the flow test but when I put the radiator back in the car, the car ran hot. Removed the radiator and then the top tank of the radiator. Had some tubes plugged and the rest were open but sediment build up limited the flow through those tubes. Radiator shop said the could rod the tubes. Not a good idea to rod a 60 year old core. I elected to put in a new core and never had a problem with the car running hot here in Arizona. Bill

Bill,
I went through the same thing. Original radiator had 70% flow, and they said it was fine...Wrong answer, it Overheated. Removed the top tank to find just about all tubes semi-blocked with hard crud and scale from our lovely Flathead block castings. No matter what you do after you're back to normal, do yourself (and your car) a BIG favor and run 2 Gano in-line filters. You won't believe what will come out after a few flushes, and you'll save your "New" radiator no matter which route you choose. Good Luck!
Bobby

Steve Passmore · July 04, 2017, 04:50:10 PM

I am constantly having this argument with radiator shops. When I finished the restoration of my 36 coupe within 5 miles it would blow water out the overflow. I knew it was because cores were blocked and took it for a new core. The radiator guy did the useless test and declared it good. I told him what I thought of his un-scientific test and we had a heated discussion, with him demanding his years of experience outweighed mine but I stuck to my guns and demanded the new core. He was so convinced it would make no difference he asked me to let him know the outcome. It was perfect afterward, but I had my work cut out convincing him of it.

amolnayak · July 05, 2017, 07:16:22 AM

I had this same argument with my mechanic when he refused to get my 1956 Mercedes Radiator re cored. Finally i pulled it out myself. The car now runs amazing even in the hot Indian summers she does not overheat.

Now my 1940 Lasalle was in disuse for a very long time. After I bought her she would overheat just spew out rusty, crudy water after driving her for about 5 miles. Finally I flushed the block and radiator. Changed the water pump but she still continues to get overheated (atl east that's what the temperature gauge shows), though she does not spew water out of the overflow. I am planing to now get a replica radiator made here so that I can keep the original as is and use the car with the replica radiator on. Will report on that.

Chuck Patton · July 05, 2017, 08:19:41 AM

Hello

I have the radiator for sale.

Steve Passmore · July 05, 2017, 10:03:00 AM

Quote from: amolnayak on July 05, 2017, 07:16:22 AM

Now my 1940 Lasalle was in disuse for a very long time. After I bought her she would overheat just spew out rusty, crudy water after driving her for about 5 miles. Finally I flushed the block and radiator. Changed the water pump but she still continues to get overheated (atl east that's what the temperature gauge shows), though she does not spew water out of the overflow. I am planing to now get a replica radiator made here so that I can keep the original as is and use the car with the replica radiator on. Will report on that.

Your overheating is probably caused by consolidated crud around the rear cylinders Amol. The factory advises removing the rear head bolts and sticking a steel rod down in there to agitate the crud before flushing it all out. I have found it to be up to 4" deep on some of my engines. Just flushing doesn't cut it.

Bill Ingler #7799 · July 05, 2017, 11:12:54 AM

Steve: I was advised many years ago that removing a rear head bolt may cause that bolt to break since it was installed probably when the engine was new. Disregarding this warning, I tried to remove a rear bolt on a 47 engine and it broke. When the factory wrote and showed pictures of how to clean the rear of the engine, that was when the flat head Cad engine was fairly new. I wonder what their procedure would be today with a 65-70 year old engine? So how many have you broken and if none then what is your procedure for removing this bolt which has been subjected to moisture and age? Bill

Steve Passmore · July 05, 2017, 02:01:35 PM

I pulled an engine from a wrecking yard in Maine in the 90s Bill and that sucker broke 22 out of the total. I found an engine in this country in a factory some 10 years ago that had also been in a wrecking yard when it was saved, and that broke even more but in all the cars I have owned I have only broken a few. I don't think there's any good way but all the engines I work with have to be dismantled so one way or another the head has to come off. If they break, they break!
I was taking shares in Helicoils at one stage LOL

The Tassie Devil(le) · July 05, 2017, 07:35:17 PM

Breaking bolts like that makes me wanting to never work on a early V8.

Bruce.

Bobby B · July 05, 2017, 07:42:50 PM

Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on July 05, 2017, 07:35:17 PM
Breaking bolts like that makes me wanting to never work on a early V8.
Bruce.

Or any old car for that matter.....

Bobby

amolnayak · July 06, 2017, 03:07:07 AM

Quote from: Steve Passmore on July 05, 2017, 10:03:00 AM
Your overheating is probably caused by consolidated crud around the rear cylinders Amol. The factory advises removing the rear head bolts and sticking a steel rod down in there to agitate the crud before flushing it all out. I have found it to be up to 4" deep on some of my engines. Just flushing doesn't cut it.

Yes your right but as mentioned by others I am really scared of breaking the bolts but i guess if it needs to be done it needs to be done. The car is off to the workshop soon and i am going to try getting the crud out as you mentioned with a rod. I am going to try all possible measure as my engine is unopened and I would prefer to leave it that way.

Steve Passmore · July 06, 2017, 03:39:30 AM

The driver side of the block is notorious for this stuff settling Amol because there's no large opening at the front to flush it out like on the other side where you have the water pump opening. As much as you don't like to do it you will have to remove the block core-plugs on that side if you do find a build up. This at least gives the crud somewhere to go during flushing. Personally, I remove all of them as a matter of coarse. Even on engines where they looked good, I have found them nearly rusted through on removal. I replace with stainless steel plugs.
Try the bottom rear head bolt drivers side first. Crack it just a fraction, then back, a fraction, then back. You will get to feel if it will release for you. You never know, it may come easy.

39lasalle · July 07, 2017, 05:39:27 AM

As far as the crud in the block, take out the freeze plugs and you spray a hose full blast in there to get a bunch out...

Messy job!

amolnayak · February 22, 2018, 12:22:30 PM

Hi since many of you it seems are using a gano filter what is the correct size for a 1940 lasalle. The small 1 1/8th inch to 13/8th inch or the medium 1 1/2â€ - 1 3/4â€ ? I assume everyone is using the see through plastic though I have read a lot of reviews of them cracking during installation.please advise

Jeff Hansen · February 22, 2018, 12:44:51 PM

Amol,

If it helps, I am using the small sized, see through plastic ones (1 1/8th inch to 1 3/8th inch) on my '41. I use one in each upper hose. I had no problems with them cracking when installing them. I can see where it would be very easy to do, though, if you tighten the clamps too tightly. Make sure you install them in the proper direction.

Hope this helps you!
Jeff

News:

1939 LaSalle Radiator