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A follow up I never posted, I was able to remove the plastic lever from the donor unit once I had the donor unit apart then using a small screwdriver to seperate the holding brace in my original mirror I was able to slid the donor lever into my original mirror and I now have a fully functional mirror without taking my mirror apart.
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General Discussion / R12 replacement gas.
« Last post by Jeepers Creepers on Today at 10:37:19 PM »
Yesterday, i had the Air Cond gassed up on the 64 Fleetwood.

I was told, steer clear of the R134 and use R437A, as it is a direct replacement for those who can't source R12. We had 6.5 degrees coming out of the vents, so I was pretty happy and the stuff certainly works well.

This a copy and paste on the product if anyone has any interest. IE: Countries like Australia where R12 is banned. The copy and paste is from Sweden, as I was chasing info for a friend from Sweden. Each country will have its own sources.

 http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiI1enS4rLWAhVCerwKHfrBBl4QFghRMAc&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aga.se%2Fen%2Fproducts_ren%2Frefrigerants%2Fhfc_gases%2Fr437a%2Findex.html&usg=AFQjCNHv8Sbh4uEaHBU9CdsSipu7q0haDA
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General Discussion / Re: Eldorado is it right?
« Last post by Bill Young on Today at 10:10:34 PM »
There is an old saying in the car business. A little powder and a little paint makes it look like it ain't "
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General Discussion / Re: Does this sound legit to you?
« Last post by gkhashem on Today at 09:48:47 PM »
Well bronze is stronger than brass and more corrosion resistant.

Plus bronze is more expensive. This would seem to imply brass is an inferior and cheaper choice. But the gears need to work with the other so I am not sure how this would end up.

But this is a complex issue above my level, here is an old forum post on the topic.

http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=106220.0

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Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1941 Stromberg carburetor
« Last post by Paul Phillips on Today at 09:48:38 PM »
Lars
I agree with Steve that the needle valve or something actuating it binding are likely culprits. I bought my last rebuild kit from Daytona Carburetor and was satisfied with their parts. The kit was very short on instructions, so it is intended for an experienced rebuilder. They also offer rebuilding services, which include a nice cosmetic restoration. I had them do a carb and fuel pump for the 60S because of the replating they can do and I can't.

Paul
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I just pulled the top off of my 1967 Eldorado tonight. According to the prior owner, the top had been replaced in around 2010. But it obviously had not been replaced well.

There was very little external indication of rust, but there were a few tiny brown streaks beginning to peek out from beneath the vinyl.

With the top off, I can see only two small spots that have completely rusted through. There are a few more, larger spots where the metal is still solid but quite rusted. The rest of it is covered with old adhesive and black goo. Vast quantities of black goo filled the rear-window channel.

Also, the vast majority of the top looks as though it has been covered with a thin layer of Bondo (underneath the adhesive). We'll see how much rust is under that.

I'm repairing it myself so it will be lots of work but relatively inexpensive. If I took this to a body shop, there's no doubt in my mind that the tab would be closer to $10k than to $5k, even with me doing the prep work.

No matter what, when it comes time to mess with the rear window, I'm taking it to the best glass shop I can find because I do not want anything to happen to a vintage Eldorado rear window!

That's my $0.02.
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I am pleased with the one in my 1940.

IMPORTANT! You want the Airtex 8902, the lowest pressure one. The others put out a higher pressure that can cause flooding.
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From here this is almost impossible to diagnose, vacuum leaks are the first thing to look for, no sealer should be used on any carb or base gaskets, that is just a patch for the root cause. Only proper onsite diagnosis is going to correct this problem. The vacuum leaks should be tested at the lowest rpm.
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General Discussion / Re: Rochester 4 gc 4 barrel carburetor problem
« Last post by James Landi on Today at 09:00:30 PM »

   One major question:  how was your engine running BEFORE this mechanic dived into it????  You appear to indicate that the carburetor was the LAST component he rebuilt and he installed and then started the car. Did the car run reasonably well before he tackled the carburetor, or  as he repaired and replaced parts, did he attempt to get the engine to run properly.  He might have rebuilt your carburetor incorrectly, OR he may have made errors on any one or a combination of the other components he worked on.  You need to reconstruct your narrative more precisely.  Also... sounds like he's done a bunch of work for you, and you're on the back burner now.  I feel your pain.   James
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If anyone has these parts in excellent condition, please let me know with prices. Thanks!
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