1959 Cadillac - Engine Priming Tool

[Dan Eckstein]

Hi All,

I am looking for engine priming tool for 1959 Cadillac 390.  Thanks in advance for your help!

[Jon S]

What beyond the carburetor accelerator pump would you need?

[35-709]

The tool to turn the oil pump?

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I made my own, using a piece of tube, and flattened the side at the end to fit the oil pump drive, and pressed an old socket to the other end, and used the speed brace to manually turn it.

The 390 Cadillac one is on the left in the first picture.

The roll pin is there to stop the shaft from going in too far.

Bruce.

[Chuck Patton]

Bruce

You are an Innovator!

[grandads59]

Why do you need a priming tool.  (May be a stupid question)

Jon Hartwell

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Why do you need a priming tool.  (May be a stupid question) Jon Hartwell

No question is stupid.   Not asking a question is stupid.

Now, priming the oil pump is required mainly following a rebuild, where all the surfaces have not been previously covered in oil.

What I do with a new engine is to initially, Remove the Spark Plugs, set the timing on the required position for setting the Distributor, remove the Distributor and install the priming tool, along with a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

Then, rotate the tool in the correct rotation to operate the oil pump, and watch the oil pressure gauge come up to pressure.  Then rotate the crankshaft 90 Degrees, and spin the pump, then repeat this process until the crankshaft has completed two rotations.   This brings it back to the spot so you can reinstall the distributor and set it up with a multimeter if it is a Points-type Distributor.

The reason for doing the rotations and priming is so that every part of the engine receives lubricant at some point of rotation, as not all parts get oil until the turning.   This includes Hydraulic Lifters and bearings.

The areas that require splash-lubrication, like Cylinder walls, cam lobes and timing chains and gears have already been lubricated during the assembly process, and as the crank isn't spinning fast enough to create the splash-lubrication, you want instant oil pressure as quick as it can get there, and priming the system is great insurance.

Bruce.

[INTMD8]

While I wouldn't tell anyone -not- to prime a fresh engine, I'm also of the opinion it's not absolutely necessary as the bearings are also lubricated during assembly.

When I installed the engine in my 59 I just cranked it with the plugs out and oil in the sump, within 2 seconds the oil light on the dash was out.

Newer LS series engines for example have a crank snout driven pump so you can't even prime them in a conventional way.

[grandads59]

Thanks for the info.  I do the same as Intmd8.  Rotate with the plugs out.  Good info.

Jon

[Dan Eckstein]

Hi All,
My thought was to re-prime the engine with oil after winter storage.  Thanks for the help!

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Don't have that problem down here.   I can't think of anyone in Australia that stores their vehicle for the Winter.   Heck, nobody here owns snow shovels.

Bruce.

[Carl Fielding]

Dan , you are being over cautious. Fire it up and enjoy ! (Uh , you DO use synthetic oil , right ?) Safe , happy , reliable cruising to you! Hope to see you on the road ! By the way , if the car has been sitting for years , that is another matter. After draining all the oil , and before any cranking at all , I pump up the engine by priming through an adapter at the full flow oil filter. Drive on !  - Carl

[Jon S]

Another simple approach would be to disconnect the coil wire to prevent ignition and give it several short cranks to get the oil circulating. Then connect the coil wire and let it fire up.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

But you still have to pull the Spark Plugs to limit pressure on the bearings.

Bruce.