Serious water leak after water pump installation

[dochawk]

I wrote a detailed bit on this last week, thought I posted it, and it doesn't seem to be there.

As detailed elsewhere, I've replaced my water pump, and the thin bolts came out with what I assume are either parts of the threadings to which they attach, or perhaps a substance that meant to seal them to stripped threads.

When I put them back in, they spun with my fingers; I never got as far as the torque wrench (and for anyone reading this, that 70 is inch-lbs on these, not foot-lbs like the other values next to it.)

Once I filled he radiator, significant water started coming out of somewhere fairly high up in the engine--possibly those four bolts.

In hindsight, I suppose I should have backed it and filled the radiator before mounting the fan and belts, but . . .  so is there a good way or angle to check where this is coming from without disassembling the fans and belts?

From other threads, it sounds like the solution, assuming it is those thin bolts, is to either replace the back housing of something, or to grind off the built-in nuts/receivers on that housing and weld or chemical weld bolts to it.

But what housing is this? (anyone have a picture)

And what kind of disassembly do I have to do to get to it or to get it off?

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Richard,
Taking your questions out of order.
1`. The usual and satisfactory "fix" for the 1/4 bolts stripping is to thread the holes for the next larger size in a metric bolt. I believe that would be 7 mm.  In regards to your leak, the 1/4 inch bolts do not actively seal the water side so I would expect the leak is either due to not thoroughly and absolutely cleaning the surface of the timing cover of all gasket material and rust, or not installing the gasket correctly.  I know it is an awkward fit-up, I just did a pump on my '75.  What I do is first of all with the pump out spread a thn layer of permatex gasket sealer on the gasket surface of the pump and install the gasket, using the bolts in each and every hole to keep the gasket ion position while the sealer sets up.  Then with one 3/8 inch bolt (one for each side of thew pump) I carefully install the pump on the previously discussed clean timing cover. One or two turns of the bolts followed by the same for each of the remaining bolts, then tighten them up evenly while making sure the pump is in position.
For your case I would be sure the leak is "behind" the pump and not just a loose hose clamp.
By the third or fourth pump change it becomes simple and usually foolproof.
Greg Surfas

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

It will probably need to come off...... sorry.
I didn't let my gasket sealer set up long enough and it made a mess when I started it. Also torque it properly. If you over torque it you will squish out all the gasket sealer.
Jeff

[V63]

I try and adhesive (sealant) the gasket on the pump the night before...then it's not sliding around.

I'm pretty sure some of the bolts find a water jacket and sealing a few of the bolts is mentioned in the shop manual ?

Before removing your pump...try and verify exactly where water is coming. I have resorted to 'spray foot powder' paint the DRY area with it. The product drys to a powder...and the water leak can be sourced easier.

Use a wrench (5/16 or 1/4) on your hose clamp fastener heads...better torque sealing than with a. screwdriver.

[Scot Minesinger]

I install my water pump and front engine cover gaskets dry.  Everyone has their own way.  The preparation of the surfaces is critical, they should look new and be clean enough to eat off for this to work.  It looks really good when you see the light blue gaskets against the Cadillac blue engine paint.  Tens of thousands of miles and no issues.

I thread in two 3/8" exhaust studs loose and slip the cover and gaskets on and then install all the other bolts snug, and then after removing the studs install the two 3/8" bolts snug and tighten everything evenly to spec.  Unfortunately the time to cure the 1/4" threads stripped is before re-install.  If ever a bolt will tighten on a gasket there will be a leak. 

If the leaks are determined to be those 1/4" threads, the 7mm might work as a quick fix.  The shop manual does state to seal those threaded holes, but I think that is to prevent oil leaks.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Whenever I am installing a Water Pump, I always use a product called Permatex No. 3.   A Non-hardening Sealant designed for these installations, and also for sealing the threads in bolts that go into a water jacket.

Also have used it for Thermostat Housings, and coat each side of the gasket.

Bruce.

[dochawk]

And with today's adventures (described in other topics), it seems not to be leaking.

Hmm.

It's been a few minutes, probably 10-15 minutes of idling, and a few hundred feet of driving but it's still full . . .

[TJ Hopland]

What did you end up doing?   Goop a bunch of stuff on it?   Metric bolts?

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

And with today's adventures (described in other topics), it seems not to be leaking.

Hmm.

It's been a few minutes, probably 10-15 minutes of idling, and a few hundred feet of driving but it's still full . . .

If you used gasket sealer it probably finally dried.
If not then is there still water in it???
Jeff

[dochawk]

What did you end up doing?   Goop a bunch of stuff on it?   Metric bolts?

I let it sit for two weeks while I figured out what to do.

Then, I filled it to see where it was leaking and it just didn't leak.

It had been a few weeks, I think, between mounting with the gasket and filling.

So I'll check again tomorrow when I work on the other stuff.  If nothing else, even if it does leak a bit, it's not a gusher.