Recent Posts

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1. Ed's Rods and Recks (off Sewells Point Rd in Norfolk): he re-assembled and painted my '56 Cadillac, and has done 7-8 other classic Cadillacs for customers and himself.  757-362-8398 or 757-226-7500.

2. "President" Reagan Balisican, Smart VA Auto (1st Colonial near NAS Oceana) is an outstanding painter of cars.  I have seen his work and it is excellent: 757-679-1927.

Tell them Mark M sent you!
For Sale / 1949 Limousine RH mirror and shaft
« Last post by jaxops on Today at 06:44:40 AM »
This may go on other years as well but it came off of a 1949 Series 75.  It is a round mirror and shaft with bracket that is curved to allow the driver to see the right hand side of the car.
$30.00 plus shipping.
Email me for information:
For Sale / 1941-1949 Tail light Bezel
« Last post by jaxops on Today at 06:41:19 AM »
1941 (All Models), 1942 1946 1947 1948 1949 (Series 75 Limousine ONLY) Chrome Tail Light Bezel USED.
This bezel is in used but good condition and came off of a 1949 Cadillac Limousine (Series 75).
$25.00 plus shipping.
Email me for information:
A used but excellent Cadillac Hearse or Ambulance Adjustable Chrome Holder circa 1965-1972.
This is a piece that can be slotted into the rear end of the casket for a hearse and adjusted to hold it in place while the car is moving.  Removable rod fits into the hearse floor slots.  Can also be used at the top of the hearse.  Rubber pad prevents damage to the casket.  Large knob adjusts the tension. 2 rods keep the pad straight on. 
This piece came from my father's funeral home and we had a 1958 Cadillac hearse, and 1964 through 1980 Cadillac hearses.  A lot of these hearse pieces were the same year to year.
$50.00 plus shipping.

Email me for information:
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1938 Heater/Defrost vents
« Last post by Steve Passmore on Today at 04:28:12 AM »
Rich, this is a picture of the 1941 type. They have a larger hose fitting but have no 'offset' which is useful. The biggest question is this, do you have the vent slot holes in your dash?  My 38 coupe did not!  Without these, it's no good going any further.
Technical / Authenticity / Re: '48 346 ci engine in a 1937
« Last post by Steve Passmore on Today at 04:22:56 AM »
Your right there Jim. It's been a while since I did mine. One of the many small details I have forgotten. I recall I had an engineer mill a small section out.
For Sale / Re: 1936 LaSalle Coupe Ebay
« Last post by Steve Passmore on Today at 04:03:46 AM »
Something weird going on here. I checked eBay only on Monday and there was no sign of that car. Now it's gone.  Bet someone stepped in with big bucks so he withdrew it.   I don't think anyone would let that car go for that price.
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1940 lasalle rear shock links
« Last post by Steve Passmore on Today at 03:56:10 AM »
Whats the length and orientation of the studs Amol? and I'll compare them to 1941
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Bias ply vs radial
« Last post by Steve Passmore on Today at 03:53:56 AM »
The downside is they cost about twice as much, and you can't get a 4" ww

They certainly do cost more, but in the long run, probably not. I dive my cars at least once a week for about 9 months of the year. One car I had for 30 years from 1982 wore out 3 sets of BF Goodrich Bias ply in 16 years, and the handling in the wet on dreadful English roads was not for the faint-hearted. In 1998 I fitted radials, the first I could find in 16" with a 2.5 whitewall. It transformed that car and I sold it in 2012 with the same set still on it. The latest owner tells me they are just about ready for replacement. So cheap in the long run.  My 37 has a set of Lester now bold after 7 years.

I don't understand running down the integrity of radials on this forum?? Virtually everything on the road has them and most are rated over 100 mph.
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1938 Heater/Defrost vents
« Last post by Rich888 on Today at 03:19:42 AM »
Hi Johnny

Thanks for sparing the time to dig out you parts and take a look anyway.

Bob  – I’ll have a wiggle under the dash this weekend and see if I can get some basic measurements down. I guess the critical ones are the distance between the mounting holes and the width of the slot. If the angle of the inlet is slightly out I can probably “jiggle” it a bit to get it to work


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