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1941 Model 6723

Started by Andrew Armitage, June 07, 2011, 03:29:14 PM

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kkarrer

Andrew,
     Daytona redid the carb on my 41 and did a fine job.  I've also had Pony Carb do work for me and they're great too.  Your problem of not firing is likely not the carb however as you can spritz a little gas into the top of the carb and a car with proper ignition etc. will fire up.  If it was running before you changed points and condenser and you've changed nothing else (spark plug wire order?), my bet is that your new condenser is bad.  Switch it with the old one and see what happens.
Good luck,
Ken Karrer 1941 6227D coupe

Andrew Armitage

Ken,

I figured it out, the distributor was off by one setting.  The wires were all shifted by one position (clockwise) to compensate.  When I put the new cap on, I put the wires on according to the book (which was then not correct for my car with a distributor that was improperly positioned).  I figured it out with the help of a friend and made the necessary corrections.

The other time I had problems starting it, was when I changed out the accelerator return spring with one that had more tension.  It changed the carb settings and flooded out my engine.  Again, I adjusted the settings and got it started again.

Everything has been corrected and it runs and drives great again.  But I did find that my vacuum advance is not operational and needs to be rebuilt.  So that's one of my winter projects.

Thanks for the help though.
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

1941-7523

Hey Andrew,

Honestly, the paint I went with had to be durable and look nice after that I was not concerned with color code. I wanted something that was as close to how I thought they should look. So for the white and blue I used an exterior enamel and for the red (which was the most important to me as it can make or break a good medallion restoration) I needed something that was of a higher durability to avoid fading or falling off. I liked how the red turned out and I partially chose the color based on how I thought it should look and partially on the name. It is a rust-olium paint so it should hold up and the name of the color is "regal red" which I thought was fitting for our cars. Anyway, good luck with your medallions.

One more tip, I painted most of the medallion with toothpicks as the small areas are hard to paint. I did not mask anything off, I just painted slowly and used the clean end of the toothpick to wipe up any mishaps (the wood helped soak up the paint easily).

kkarrer

Andrew,
    Send that vacuum advance to Terrill Machine if you want it rebuilt.  Rebuilding is a good idea as even an nos unit will have an old diaphram.

Ken

Andrew Armitage

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll look them up.
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

Andrew Armitage

#45
I haven't posted here in a few months.  Been doing more driving than restoring lately (which is good).

I just thought that I'd share that I'm taking a trip down to St Louis for Easter weekend as I'm registered for the Concours d'Elegance that they hold every year at Forest Park.  I thought it'd be a nice destination for the car's first long trip, as before me the car spent most, if not all, of its life there.  It's about a 300 mile trip each way.

I hear it's a good show, I guess I'll see for myself! 
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

Andrew Armitage

Well, I didn't make it to the show.  The car broke down about 60 miles east of St Louis.  Turns out that the rear bushing in the generator was worn to the extent that the play in it allowed the armature to hit the field coil and destroyed the insides of the generator.

I had another generator overnighted to a shop in St Louis who installed it.  I tried to get the car home but broke down again as the "new" generator wasn't charging.  Took the battery and left the car.  Charged the battery overnight and went back, installed it and made it home.  Took the "new" generator to a shop and they determined that one of the brushes was installed incorrectly and was the cause of the no-charge condition on my car.  Had that generator repaired and the original generator completely rebuilt.

Also had the fan bearing replaced as I had everything apart.  The new bearing is slightly longer than the original, so make sure the distance from the housing to the back of the fan mounting plate is 1 3/4" otherwise the fan will squeal pretty bad.

Car is better than ever and I'm ready to go back on the road with it as soon as the weather improves.

Thanks for all the help the various members gave!
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

kkarrer

Guys,
      I sent my carb off to Daytona and they did a good job.  Pony Carbs is reliable as well.  As to the starting problem, if all else is well after trouble shooting, I'd suspect that it's a connection around the coil area and if you don't see something there, I'd change the condenser.  Actually, I got tired of messing with that stuff as those manifolds are brutally hot, and I replaced everything with a Pertronics.  You can do that whether you keep the 6v or go to 12v and yes, you can make the coil look stock. I always keep a set of points and condenser in the trunk for back up, but in all my years of doing this I've never needed them and I have been stranded by a bad condenser.  Interesting how that almost always happens at night or when it's really hot and your wife is in the car.  I know the electronic ignition and 12v isn't for everyone, but I'm planning to install AC in this car.  By the way, Charlie Babcock in Florida has the correct, flexible line that runs from the hard fuel line to the fuel pump if you need that.
Ken Karrer 1941 6227D coupe