News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

1957 Cadillac exhaust manifolds Posts or Bolts

Started by wearymicrobe, December 12, 2017, 11:18:38 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

wearymicrobe

Does anybody know what the spec was on the 1957 CDV for the exhaust manifolds. I have been chasing a leak on the driver and passenger side for weeks now.

Only thing I can think is that the bolt that came with the motor are incorrect in length or that they are stretching with heat and they used a post from the factory that has somehow been removed. DOes anybody has the specs for these.

I have fixed the passenger side with locking nuts but this is so not the right way to do things.

35-709

#1
Are you sure you don't have a crack in some hard to see spot?  Not at all uncommon.
Also, if your heat riser is stuck closed it will continually direct hot exhaust gases through your intake manifold.  One result is that the center port of the intake gasket cannot stand the constant heat and it will fail there,  causing a leak (sounds like a ticking valve lifter).  Left unattended, that leak will erode the metal away at that place on both the intake and the head then requiring the intake to be planed.  Head repair can get to be expensive and time consuming although sometimes, if caught soon enough, a high-temp sealant will work.  Removal of the intake is still required.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

wearymicrobe

No crack I have been over them with a fine tooth comb, they were also decked flat. Engine was checked with a straight edge and that is flat as well. Heat riser has been complete blocked so that is not it. No carb boiling issues so it did not open back up. I am using metal core gaskts with copper aviation spray on both sides.

You are right about it being the center exhaust port. It will hold for about 100 miles then let go and mainly it looks slightly warped at the top of the center port then when it cools it falls back into position. I have a few of the 1/8th thick gaskets coming in next weekend but bugging the tar out of me as the car is almost 100% perfect except for the lifter tick noise.

The passenger side I put crush washers on and it is holding over the last say 200 miles just fine but the driver side as we all know is just a serious pain to get in and work on.




35-709

"You are right about it being the center exhaust port. It will hold for about 100 miles then let go and mainly it looks slightly warped at the top of the center port then when it cools it falls back into position. I have a few of the 1/8th thick gaskets coming in next weekend but bugging the tar out of me as the car is almost 100% perfect except for the lifter tick noise."

When you reassemble this time, use Permatex Copper Hi-Temp silicone sealer, not the spray stuff.  We used it all the time on small engine aircraft exhaust (such as a Lycoming 0-320) to seal the exhaust pipe to engine port flange and it worked very well.  Same problem there, an exhaust leak would be let go for awhile and it would erode the metal on the cylinder away and it was difficult to get those resurfaced.  Give it a try. 
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

wearymicrobe

Picked up a tube, will be here tomorrow. Will report back.

tripwire

Driving now:
2013 CTS4 Performance Coupe
1940 LaSalle 5229 C4D

A few I used to drive:
1976 Cadillac Ambulance
1969 Cadillac Hearse, Superior Body
1966 Buick Wildcat Hearse
1957 Ford Thunderbird x 3, 1 E code, 2 D code
1956 Oldsmobile Rocket 88 Sedan
1949 Mercury Convertible
1949 Mercury Coupe, Mild Custom
1936 Buick Special Sedan

35-709

Let it cure overnight before running the engine!
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

David King (kz78hy)

The bolts are special.  Chip Iceman had them made and here is the link.  I have some as well, but they are Chips.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202136864108?ul_noapp=true

David
David King
CLC 22014  (life)
1958 Eldorado Brougham 615
1959 Eldorado Brougham 56- sold
1960 Eldorado Brougham 83- sold
1998 Deville d'Elegance
1955 Eldorado #277
1964 Studebaker Commander
2012 Volt
CLCMRC benefactor 197

Director and Founder, Eldorado Brougham Chapter
Past President, Motor City Region

Rare Parts brand suspension parts Retailer via Keep'em Running Automotive

wearymicrobe

If they look like that then I definitely have the wrong bolts. Hard to tell from the photos but from the head as a reference I have another 1/4-1/2 inch on mine. Mine are threaded the whole way as well and do not have the built in flared washer on the nut.

Bet I am bottoming out on the bottom of the hole. Will throw a welding wire up the hole to confirm that I am bottoming out.

Between that and the new copper gasket it will sound like a sewing machine.

Seriously thank you guys this is website fantastic source of info.

wearymicrobe

I found the right bolts in the pile that I took off of another motor I had stolen parts and bolts off of. Well at least 11 of the 12 total. Same length as the ones I had installed.

It is leaking at the center joint above near the valve cover. New bolts are in and it is slathered in copper gasket. Started it this morning and no leaks at all, quieter then it has ever been. Going to put some miles on it over the next month and see if it holds.

Thanks again guys.

INTMD8

I don't run gaskets on my 59. Very very thin smear of high temp rtv, has been perfect for years. Maybe something to try if you have continual bad luck with gaskets, just make sure they are flat.

The one exhaust leak I had was the choke tube inside the intake cracked in half so was leaking out of the end, under the intake manifold.

wearymicrobe

No gasket and the RTV was the ticket. I checked that they were both 100% perfectly flat with a square and well that is what finally worked.

I do like the thinker gaskets I got and may use the same company for intake gaskets int he future.

35-709

1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2