News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

wiring harness

Started by chris92026, January 10, 2018, 11:22:07 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

chris92026

after looking deeper into the electric on the 59
I have a bigger problem than expected
59 Cadillac Sedan Deville
C.Perrin

The Tassie Devil(le)

G'day Christophe,

Those pictures are sickening.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Steve Passmore

Looks like a major short has happened at some time. :o
Steve

Present
1937 60 convertible coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe
1941 62 coupe

Previous
1936 70 Sport coupe
1937 85 series V12 sedan
1938 60 coupe
1938 50 coupe
1939 60S
1940 62 coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe x2
1941 61 coupe
1941 61 sedan x2
1941 62 sedan x2
1947 62 sedan
1959 62 coupe

chris92026

yes
surprise that did not burn the car down
C.Perrin

Skwerly62

Ouch, shows what 60yp wiring and enough knowledge to be dangerous equals. I’d spring for a whole new wiring kit (if you’re not looking for stock) from Painless or AAW.
Skwerly
1958 Extended Deck 62 Sedan SOLD
1960 Coupe - current project
USCG Vet - Fly CG!

bcroe

That is just terrible, that car should never be driven in that condition.  This
shows that the electrical systems of that day were never designed to last
many decades. 

I would HIGH PRIORITY investigate getting a replacement wiring set, and
plan to replace EVERYTHING.  If a good set isn't available, plan how to
have a custom replacement built up, possibly based on the original after
removal.  Worst case you would be much better off with one of those
UNIVERSAL car wiring sets, adding whatever is needed to fill out the Cad
functions. 

Part of the problem is those ancient poor quality connectors oxidize over
time, the resistance increases, they start running hot, and the whole
process snowballs to the point of melting things and possible short/fire. 
Don't hang onto that ancient technology, get improved replacement
equipment for this critical function.  Better fuse block, better connectors,
use properly sized FUSEABLE LINKS in the major power feeds.  Keep
that car on the road, upgraded as needed. 

The harnesses I build tend to be easier to service than originals. Bruce Roe

bcroe

If you are into DIY, I find DEL CITY in Milwaukee can supply quality low
voltage wiring, waterproof connectors, tools, etc in a variety far beyond
any local store.  Prices reasonable, they aren't specializing in cars at all. 
Great on line search. 
Bruce (in the phone bus 41 years) Roe

chris92026

took the harness out last night
will replace the damaged wire, for now, I haven't fired the car since I have, so I would like to know if it starts and trans work before I really go deep

Dan LeBlanc

You don't need the wiring harness of the car to do that.

Disconnect the main power wire that goes from the starter to the fuse box to take the car's wiring out of the equation.

Run a power wire from the battery + terminal to the coil (preferrably with a switch in there somewhere).

Run a wire from the starter solenoid to the battery with a pushbutton switch.

Turn on the power from the battery to the coil.  Press the switch button on the other wire to engage the starter and at least you can let the car run that way, if you're concerned with getting in too far without knowing the condition of the engine and transmission.
Dan LeBlanc
1977 Lincoln Continental Town Car

chris92026

#9
thank you, Dan Leblanc,
I will try this
part of it is I got the car with all the wire disconnected under the dash and engine bay I am trying to figure out where all the wire goes its a lot easier for me after I know where everything goes to work on it

bcroe

If you try to start it, don't leave a wire connected between the battery and
the coil + for very long, or you may burn up more stuff.  A ballast resistor
needs to be in that path to limit current, which only is shorted when
actually cranking the engine.  Bruce Roe

Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373

For a temporary run I would use a wire to the coil with alligator clips on the ends. This way if something starts to go bad in a hurry you can just yank the wire and the car will die immediately.
Jeff
Jeff Rosansky
CLC #28373
1970 Coupe DeVille (Big Red)
1955 Series 62 (Baby Blue)
Dad's new 1979 Coupe DeVille