1939 Cadillac 60S rear axle

[Rick Rinehart #18151]

The pinon gear has too much play forward and back.  The diagram in the 128 page "Shop Manual" shows a compressible spacer that may tighten it up.  Also I need to replace the pinon bearing oil seal and retainer.  My machine shop says I need detailed instructions before taking the assembly apart in order to replace the compressible spacer. The "shop manual" does not have detailed info- it just says to replace the assembly and no attempt should be made to disassemble or adjust the unit.  Where do I get more detailed info on tightening up the pinon gear.  Can I replace the oil seal and retainer without disassembling the unit? Thanks.    

[Brad Ipsen CLC #737]

With information from later manuals and information from the 1940 Manufacturing Infomation manual from the engineering dept. to the assemble line I have written up a revised manual for doing this job.  It is to long to post but I can email it to you directly.  Contact me at bradipsen@cs.com.  This applies to 1939 to 1952.  1938 and earlier had shim packs to adjust the bearing spacing.  Later models had a collapsible sleeve.

[Baxter Culver #17189]

I have a written procedure that was developed by John Lawrence for his 39 60S, but would like to get a copy of your document.  Never too much information.  I would appreciate an e-mail.  If you want a copy of what I have, send a post office address and Ill copy and send.  It isnt in electronic format (yet).

[Brad Ipsen CLC#737]

John Lawrence and I worked on this together.  It is the same material.

[Rick Rinehart]

Thanks for the instructions Brad.  I was afraid I had to take apart the whole assembly to get to the collapsible sleeve.It appears I can get to it by removing the yoke, seal, and bearing.  Thats a relief.

[John Tozer #7946]

Brad,

Do you know if anyone has either performed the surgery (or better still, done it and written it up) for the earlier model (36, 37) 75/85 series with the spiral bevel diffs?

I know what the shopmanual says (dont touch it, just send it back to the shop) but thats not all that easy these days, particularly where I am, and these were pretty fragile diffs. I know Gene Menne from Indiana has performed some of this work on the basis that I cant just leave it the way it is and I know a bit about these things so here goes and he has been very helpful over the past few years.

I just wondered if you knew someone who had gone to the lengths that you have with the 39 hypoids and written it all down.

I currently have the crown wheel/sun gear end of mine in bits but havent touched the pinion end yet. Are there any clues in your document that you think might be applicable to the spiral bevel diff pinions?

Regards,


JOHN TOZER

[Brad Ipsen CLC#737]

John,

I cant help you much on the older stuff.  On 38s the pinion seal is easy as long as the pinion bearings are in good shape.  The preload on the bearings is done with a shim pack.  Disassembly for the seal does not change the shim pack so just retorque the nut and you are done.  In 39 the shim pack was replaced with the colapsible sleeve for preloading the bearings.  This is what causes the problems when replacing the pinion seal.

My impression is that the subject rear ends are exceeding tough.  I once disassembled a rear end with one axle that was shorter than the correct one.  The spline was only catching about 1/4 inch of its length.  It was wore some but it did not fail.  From parting out cars I have seen a number of these and they all seem to look pretty good.  The only problem is the pinion seals all leak.

[Jerry Goclan]

Rick   The compressible or crush sleeve in your dif, is there to set the preload on the pinion bearings. If you have back and forth  movement in the pinion shaft, it means the bearings arent seated properly,  either, do to severe wear and failure, or improper adjustment of the preload.    Jerry Goclan

[Daisy]

Heya! Does anyone possibly know where the motor block number is located on the 39?