Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
General Discussion / Re: 5% Discount from Hagerty for CLC Members
« Last post by cadillacmike68 on December 15, 2017, 11:11:14 PM »
Iím in CA too; at least I wasnít missing out on something I was entitled to all these years.  Might not get the discount, but at least I get to drive my cars year round.

I can do that here in Florida too and without a crushing state income tax.
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1956 Engine Compartment
« Last post by kkarrer on December 15, 2017, 10:39:55 PM »
Semi-gloss black is correct for the underhood paint.  The correct insulator mat is available from a guy on e-bay.  I've bought about 6 of them from him over the years for the 55-56 cars that I've restored. Don't be tempted to get the cheapies that are of burlap or fiberglass.  Also, be sure to use the good 3M spray glue and spray both the hood and the pad.  Get a helper to hold the pad in place and mark the outside edges with a erasable marker or masking tape. That way you'll know how far to spray your glue.  You do want to get pretty close to the edge of the pad.  Allow the glue to set up for about 15 min. depending upon temperature, then start at the front-most part of the pad, letting the pad hang down (so that you can pivot it if necessary) and work your way back.  If you've left your tape or pen marks on the hood, you'll know if you're where you want to be as you affix the pad to the hood.  Last word of caution here... if you've just rebuilt the engine, start it first and be sure the timing etc. is correct.  Sometimes starting a new engine can produce a big hiccup from the engine that can include a fire ball and that can ignite your new hood pad...the result will not be what you had in mind when you said,"let's fire up the engine!"
Take care,
Ken Karrer
CenTex Reg. Dir.
Thanks for the pics.
The car looks like my XLR on steroids - same color - and I like it ( more places for peeps to sit).
However, the top bow placement isn't quite right to keep the sleek lines.
The bows are too sharply prominent and need to be more padded to soften the lines.
There needs to be a couple straps - each side of the rear window - to keep that area from sagging.
Purchasing a Cadillac should reflect something new in design (maybe a hint of iconoclasm) - I don't recall anybody saying they would kick a CIEL out of their garage - although didn't have a "for Real Top" when debuted - didn't have to, to catch the excitement of the concept and design.
Have fun,
Steve B.

Steve -- very much agree with you on the top.  It looks terrible -- like a
cheap conversion.  Also, as another previous poster pointed out
there is more to making a convertible than just chopping the top off. 
Lots of body structural engineering to get it right.

For example, the 1955 convertibles had a massive brace on the
frame that also added 500 extra pounds of weight.  I'm not saying
that's a solution for today, but it worked in 1955.  There are more
elegant solutions and more modern materials than back in the 50's
that can be used.

However, I doubt most "conversion coach" builders have the
know-how to do that.  Cadillac could, of course, but I don't
believe the marketplace would respond with sufficient sales to
make it worthwhile.  The XLR was a great looking car, but quickly
developed a reputation for many troublesome problems.  Same
with the Allante.

Being as pricey as they were back then, that didn't fly well with
the public and the equation high price + low quality = slim sales.

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Electrical Problem 1939 Lasalle Won't Start
« Last post by tturley on December 15, 2017, 07:37:57 PM »
Good looking LaSalle
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1959 Cadillac heater core and valve
« Last post by Bobby B on December 15, 2017, 07:36:40 PM »

Does anyone re-core/repair these or am I better off buying new?

I wouldn't even think of repairing that core if a new one was available. I think your radiator shop would be telling you the same thing.
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Electrical Problem 1939 Lasalle Won't Start
« Last post by USNTar on December 15, 2017, 06:25:33 PM »
Thanks for all the advice. I did take another stab at it before leaving for work by taking jumper cables,  attaching the black (negative) to the post on the starter, and touching the red (positive) to the ground strap. The other ends I attached directly to my fresh 6v battery (with key in on position). Nothing.  Will try again after rapping it with a hammer. If that doesn't work I'll remove the starter and see what's going on.

The observation that the wiring looks off is correct. Seems previous owners at some point put a new starter and solenoid in with the new wires and either clipped or disconnected the old wiring and let it hang. I'm seeing other wiring done the same way so I foresee having to go through the electrical system at some point. That will have to wait until I get this current problem fixed. ..then replacement of the brake system. ..and universal joints.  :D
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 346 water in the oil and cylinders??
« Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) on December 15, 2017, 06:20:53 PM »
I have had very good results with Bar's Leak, and wouldn't hesitate in using it again and again.

Seeing as we don't have cold enough weather down here where I live, (Actually not many places in Australia where one requires to put in any anti-freeze liquid), I am not really familiar with where engines crack under cold conditions, so looking for cracks in abnormal places is unfamiliar to me.

Funny thing though, when I bored out the SBC engine in one of my Hot Rods, going to .060 oversize discovered a large pinhole, low down in the wall of a cylinder.   Scratched it clean, and building core sand came out, so, seeing as it was at about 1" above the piston bottom dead centre, we simply bronzed it over, and all was good.   The things one does when one has to.   This imperfection or possible core-shift wasn't picked up when the block was cast, and still wasn't picked up when the block was machined.

The Gasket surface areas really need to be perfect to allow the gaskets a chance of a good seal.

Put a straight edge over the whole area, and see if there is any visible imperfections.

I would be recommending biting the bullet and have the block decked, even though it means removing and completely stripping down.   And while it is bare, have it crack-tested.

Bruce.  >:D
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Electrical Problem 1939 Lasalle Won't Start
« Last post by J. Gomez on December 15, 2017, 06:16:56 PM »
Iím not an expert on this year vintage but just curious.

Did the 39-41 starter has a relay on top of the solenoid? I do not see one mounted on this one, not sure if it is required or if it can be bypass?   ???

Was the starter push button wired directly to the solenoid terminal in your case? Assuming that is where the red wire is going to?   ???

If you hear a loud click from the solenoid once you press the starter button that would indicate the solenoid coil is fine.

Assuming the í39 solenoid is similar to newer styles (mid 195X onward) there is a copper disc inside which connected the battery terminal to the starter terminal when energized to power the starter motor. If nothing happens on the starter motor when the solenoid is energized most likely the trouble is the solenoid.

Not sure how easy would be on the í39 if you can temporarily short the battery terminal and solenoid coil terminal (red wire ???) to engage the solenoid and see if that makes any different with your issue, and causes the starter to crank.
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 346 water in the oil and cylinders??
« Last post by gary griffin on December 15, 2017, 05:58:03 PM »

Thanks for response Bruce.   First it leaked and then we put in new "Best" Gaskets and it leaked again. Ran well with low water but then we filled to top of radiator and ran it again with no radiator cap so it would not build up pressure. I was taught to run until warm then cool off and torque again. Never got that far with this car.

I am leaning towards believing there is a leak low in the internals because saw no I indication of  leakage until we filled it.
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Electrical Problem 1939 Lasalle Won't Start
« Last post by harry s on December 15, 2017, 05:47:50 PM »
Something doesn't look right about the wiring, but as Steve pointed out it is hard to really tell by the picture and not being there.  Harry
Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]