When driving you can feel a bind.
You can also hear an occasional chirp. I jacked up the rear axle and put it in drive and watched the wheel spin and hear the chirp on occasion. I've hear the same chirp when a u joint is failing.
I first thought the "bind" was a bent rear rim but ruled that out by swapping in the spare on either side on rear. There is also a droning noise coming from the controlled differential until you let off the gas...now I am wondering if it could all be attributable to a bad joint?
My sense is there is a "bind" in one of the 2 rear joints. Has anyone had this experience?
Thanks You.
Usually a universal joint going out would be a clicking noise on initial rotation as the needle rollers started to destroy themselves.
Bruce. >:D
I though the 63 and up driveshafts had other symptoms. If you are correct, I wonder if I have a bad axle bearing.
A bad axle bearing will usually be more pronounced as you veer left and right. This loads the bearings on the sides.
Bruce. >:D
P.
Hi. You can easily feel a bad U-Joint by going under the car and checking it out. It's pretty obvious :o . Could also be something going on in the rear. The word "Binding" doesn't usually relate to a bad U-Joint, which is more of a "Clunk", not a "Click"...........
Bobby
Yep, that chirp could definitely be a u-joint that is not necessarily worn out yet but bearings are dry. It won't take many miles for it to grenade if that is the case. Been there a couple times.
Does that drive shaft have a CV joint on front and back like a 68? It might be something the the CV joint, not necessarily a U-joint. Good luck.
I had a lot of chirping coming from my 69 driveshaft, had the driveshaft cv joints rebuilt and the problem has not occurred. I was told one joint was "barbecued"...
Cheap crap Taiwanese front wheel bearing seals rubbing against backing plate...GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR@foreign aftermarket crap!!
Great that you found the front noise, now for the rear.
What can we do to stop the influx of imperfect parts from overseas?
There has to be some way to limit the importation or sale of non-fitting parts.
Bruce. >:D
I went through 4 Timken grease seals before I found one that was a snug fit. Go Figure.......I always order extra nowadays and return what I don't use. Eliminates a little frustration sometimes, especially when you're in the middle of a job.
Bobby
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on October 08, 2017, 08:43:44 PM
Great that you found the front noise, now for the rear.
What can we do to stop the influx of imperfect parts from overseas?
There has to be some way to limit the importation or sale of non-fitting parts.
Bruce. >:D
Don't hold your breath, they are even faking missile guidance chips, etc.
Removed the driveshaft and brought it to a local expert that does nothing but drivelines and driveshaft work
It dud not remove easily as it was jammed
In with front yoke all the way into the transmission. Because there is a rear driveshaft flange in trunk, we believe that this is not the original shaft.all the joints are either loose or binding. Total estimate to shorten one inch, balance. And rebuild is 403.00. The transmission mount is also junk, completely broken. I am wondering if the whine in the rear could be related to drivedhaft issues ? Regardless, the work needs to get done.
You stall may not be done. All you mention that you found wrong you may have to replace the transmission tail shaft bushing. Ask the drive shaft mechanic to mic the front yoke for wear too.
Good luck.
Hello P. Manoogian,
My '67 Sedan DeVille appeared to have two TH400 tailshaft bushings, which I replaced when I rebuilt my transmission. The new bushings, when not installed in the tailshaft, fit over the driveshaft yoke with no issues. After installing the new bushings in the tailshaft, one of the bushings was too tight on the yoke, so I honed the bushing until I got a satisfactory fit. You may want to remove the tailshaft of the transmission so you can check the fit of the yoke in the bushing(s) before everything is installed in the car. The attached photo shows the old bushings in the foreground, and the new bushings in the background in front of the tailshaft housing.
Respectfully submitted,
Christopher Winter
UPDATE:
A local guy had a 67 driveshaft that was 1.5" shorter than what was in the car which was also a problem as the old shady was jammed in between rear and transmission in fact the driveshaft shop was going to cut the original shafts by 1" so the extra 1/2" seemed insignificant.
Upon installation and test drive all the chirps are gone and the car drives much better although the controlled differential is still whining.
Thanks to all who contributed thoughts.