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1966 Fleetwood Series 75 Limousine

Started by Andrew Armitage, September 16, 2012, 08:50:27 AM

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Andrew Armitage

I just picked this up this past weekend.  I wasn't looking for another car, nor did I need another project, but for what I paid for it, I couldn't pass it up.

It was setting in a barn in rural IL but ran and drove.  It was covered in dust and the interior was stained and full of trash but appeared to be in decent condition with the exception of the back seat which is disintegrating as I touch it.  In any case, the car was in good enough shape for me to drive it 60 miles home on the interstate, doing about 55mph, in pouring rain.

The next day I spent about 6 hours washing it, scraping off stickers, removing broken junk accessories, cleaning out the corn cobs, beer cans, and misc food wrappers and vaccuuming it out.  Basically trying to restore some dignity to this vehicle.

So this is what I have to start with.


 
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

Davidinhartford

Wow!    ;D   Nice find!   Congratulations!

   

harry s

Andrew, What a Car! Bring it to the Potomac Region Professional Pride Show Oct 28, at Capital Cadillac in Greenbelt , MD.     http://www.clcpotomacregion.org/forms/CLCPR.2012FallCarShow.Flyer.pdf 
  Harry
Harry Scott 4195
1941 6733
1948 6267X
2011 DTS Platinum

Eldo66

Andrew -

Looks like a great find.  I have always thought that the 1966 model had the cleanest styling of any 75 sedan.  If it has the original paint color, it appears to be the Claret Maroon.  When you are ready, post some pictures of the interior.  Does the divider window still work?

Regards, Paul Nesbitt

1966 Eldorado - Flamenco Red with bucket seats

Gene Beaird

Nice find!  I don't _need_ another car, but if I found that, it, too would follow me home.   8)
Gene Beaird,
1968 Calais
1979 Seville
Pearland, Texas
CLC Member No. 29873

Andrew Armitage

I'm sure it's been at least partially repainted but the cowl and door jams are basically the same color.  The paint looks decent in the pictures but in real life, there is no gloss to it at all.  Some body work and a full repaint will be in order one day when I have the money.  I'm not sure how I feel about owning a purple Cadillac limo.  If I do go ahead and repaint it, I'm thinking I'm going to have to go with black, or dark blue or something a little more formal and to my tastes.  For now, I'm going to do some much needed mechanical freshening up to make it safe and roadworthy.  I will try and polish out the paint as it is and see if I can get some luster back in it for the present moment.

The divider window is in perfect condition and works excellent.

Here are some BEFORE pictures of the interior...

As you can see, the back seat is brittle and splitting in several places and needs to be redone.  Any suggestions on where to go for the material?  The rest looks like I can get away with a deep cleaning and treatment of the wood.
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

Andrew Armitage

#6
Quote from: harry s on September 16, 2012, 10:12:05 AM
Andrew, What a Car! Bring it to the Potomac Region Professional Pride Show Oct 28, at Capital Cadillac in Greenbelt , MD.     http://www.clcpotomacregion.org/forms/CLCPR.2012FallCarShow.Flyer.pdf 
  Harry

Harry, I'd love to go to that show as I'm a big fan of professional cars, but can't swing it this year.  Heck, driving it 60 miles home probably wasn't even a good idea (Thankfully, I made it home!)  Is that show an annual thing?

edit: I just read the flyer and see that it's a one time theme.  But what a great idea!
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

harry s

Andrew, Our region is very fortunate in that Capital Cadillac makes it's facility and resources available for two annual shows. The Fall Show has been a themed show for the past number of years. See previous themed shows:
{http://www.clcpotomacregion.org/index.htm) and the Spring Show is in conjunction with a memoribilia auction.
     Look forward to seeing your progress. If you decide to repaint my vote on color is deep blue.
Harry
Harry Scott 4195
1941 6733
1948 6267X
2011 DTS Platinum

Davidinhartford

The Maroon color looks good to me.   I'd repaint it the factory maroon color.


Andrew Armitage

I dug into the front passenger side brakes and pretty much found what I expected.  The wheel cylinder was completely frozen.  What I didn't plan for is the brake line to be more or less welded to the brake hose which I'm replacing too.  Even with a line wrench, the threaded connector is starting to round out because it just won't budge.   I'm letting some PB Blaster soak in overnight and hopefully I can break it loose without having to cut the brake line.

I replaced the first of all four shocks on that corner too.  Of course, the nut on top was frozen onto the stud.  I had to cut the metal plate that holds the bushing in place.  Fortunately, the whole is large enough to slide the stud with the nut still on down through it.  1 down, 3 to go!

I also ordered a new high pressure power steering line because mine seems to be leaking all over the driver's side of the engine compartment.  I'll replace the return lines too while I'm at it as they have seen better days. Anyone offhand know what type of ATF to use for the power steering pump?
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

Andrew Armitage

#10
I finished up the right front brake and replaced the left front shock and stabilizer bar bushings today.

I used a Dremmel tool to cut the top bushing off of the old shock and it dropped right out.  Much easier than yesterday when I was monkeying around with it for hours.

I took the car for a test ride and filled the tires to the proper 28 psi and it's already driving noticeably better.  Of course the brakes are 100% better.  I flushed the brown brake fluid from the front lines.  Now the car stops in a straight line when I brake as opposed to pulling hard to the left.
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

The Tassie Devil(le)

Great buy, and I know where you are coming from re the bad brakes.

The best way I have founds to "break" the flare-nut on a stubborn hose is to use the biggest shifter (Adjustable Spanner" to Americans), say a 12" one, and tighten it up tight onto the nut, and carefully apply pressure, making sure it is still tight.

This way, you are avoiding "Spanner Gap Spreading" as the large Shifter will have sufficient strength to keep the jaws from spreading.

Oh, and if the car is riding on Radial Tyres, I would be recommending a pressure well over 30 PSI.   But, no more than 40 PSI.   It is marvellous what the difference will be.

But, if they are the original tyres, and the car was sitting for a long time, I would be recommending that you change them immediately, no matter how much tread is on them.

For the Power Steering, use any of the Dexron Fluids from III upwards to VI.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Andrew Armitage

#12
Bruce,

The tires are bias-ply and in need of replacing.  I'm looking at www radials from Coker but they'll have to wait a bit as they aren't cheap.  Until then, the car just drives around the block in my subdivision.  So while I wait for roadworthy tires, I have a trans leak and power steering leak that need to be addressed so the car is ready to roll when I get them.

Thanks for the tip of what to use for the power steering pump.
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

Andrew Armitage

I can never leave well enough alone...

I decided to change to change the coolant because who knows how old it is.  Then I figured that it would be a good time to change the coolant and heater hoses because they all look past their prime.  And I figure I should change the thermostat while I'm at it.

Then a bolt head breaks off the cylinder head water outlet pipe where the thermostat housing attaches.  So I decide to pull it off to work on it easier.  Then wouldn't you know it, both bolts going into the number 1 cylinder bank break off.  I thought that if I unbolted the water pump, I could slide the water outlet pipe and the water pump straight off as a unit.  I guess not, it seems there is a threaded portion on the water outlet pipe by the cylinder head.  (Can anyone verify this for me?)

And just before this, the bottom bolt head for the generator mount broke off.

On the ones with the "studs" still there, I'm going to try the two nut method to try and back the bolts out.  As far as the water outlet pipe, there's going to be some drilling.  I'm hoping that I don't have to take the head off to get this taken care of!

It all started with a simple coolant change.
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

Andrew Armitage

And to top it off, it looks like the exhaust manifold on the left side is cracked!  I'm not looking forward to trying to beak those bolts loose.
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

Andrew Armitage

I hammered and pryed the water outlet pipe off with the help of a friend who is a retired Cadillac mechanic.  The water pump came out as well. Looks like a previous water pump change resulted in a broken bolt that was left in. 

I also took a chance and disconnected the A/C line that ran over the top of the radiator becasuse the A/C compressor is really in the way.  Upon disconnecting the line, it gave up one little last puff but was 99.99% empty.

With the A/C line out of the way, I disconnected the trans lines from the radiator and pulled it out of the car.  I'm going to bring it in to have it tested.  I'm hoping it just needs a flush and a paint job.

Compression check is next.  Depending on what shows, and if I can get the broken studs out of the head will determine if I pull the heads.

The front engine cover might have to come off too because it's right there in the open and I know the timing chain is a weak point, so why not?
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

Andrew Armitage

It's been a while since I've posted my progress.  I'm still working on her.

I used heat and a bolt extractor to remove one broken water pipe bolt out of the left head and drilled out and retapped the other water pipe bolt hole on that left head as the bolt extractor just twisted off what was left of the exposed bolt.

The long bolt that ran through the alternator was completely corroded to the alternator and I wound up just breaking the bolt.  The remaining threaded portion came out easy with a “back-out” drill bit as the actual threaded portion wasn’t seized.

The broken thermostat housing bolt came out easily with the boken bolt extractor.

I pulled the radiator and took it in where it tested poorly so I picked up a new one.

Compression was tested at 180, 170, 150, 160, 170, 170, 165, and 180 in cylinders 1-8 respectively.  So I’m relieved that no internal engine work needs to be done.

My exhaust is swiss cheese and hodge podge patches.  The manifold studs are rusted beyond the point of no return.  The Y-Pipe was rusted through in a few areas.  I just took it off with a Sawzall.  Also found that the heat riser is rusted in the closed position.

Half of the driver's side exhaust manifold bolts are out.  But for the remaining 3 bolts, the 9/16" socket is too big and the 1/2" socket is too small.  14 mm is too big and 13 mm is too small too.  Not sure what to do besides pulling the head and working on them outside of the car where I can drill the heads of the bolts off and side the manifold off.

Motor mounts have been changed.  The old ones were falling apart but didn't look that bad until I took them off and they were both rotten.  The trans mount is next up when it arrives.
Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

The Tassie Devil(le)

Oh boy, what a saga.

I can see you pulling the engine to get the exhaust manifold bolt threads out as you will probably have to either weld a good bolt onto the rusted head (after you have cleaned away the rust) or just grind off the head, and slide the manifold off.

If you take off the heads, then you will end up going deeper than you really wanted to.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Andrew Armitage

Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on November 26, 2012, 02:03:57 AM
Oh boy, what a saga.

I can see you pulling the engine to get the exhaust manifold bolt threads out as you will probably have to either weld a good bolt onto the rusted head (after you have cleaned away the rust) or just grind off the head, and slide the manifold off.

If you take off the heads, then you will end up going deeper than you really wanted to.

Bruce. >:D

Absolutely correct.  I'd like to avoid pulling the heads off at just about all cost.  And as far as pulling the engine, the shop manual states that the "engine must be removed with transmission attached."  I'd rather not even take either of the heads off as the compression is just fine.

I think I'll try and grind the bolt heads down.  If I mess up the manifold, well, that's okay, it's already cracked and I have a good used one on the way.

The new motor mounts aren't bolted in yet and the engine is jacked up to get some extra room to play with for now.

Funny, in those first few days when the car was drivable, when I would give it gas other than like grandma would, the drive shaft was hitting the crossmember (I think) and making a horrendous noise.  I thought it was the trans mount and here I find both motor mounts are completely rotted through. The engine was basically just setting in there by its own weight!

Here are some pictures of the car after I had cleaned it up but before I took it apart...

Andrew Armitage
Plainfield, IL
1941 67 Series
1966 Fleetwood 75 Series
1985 Seville
1991 Eldorado

The Tassie Devil(le)

I don't think you have to remove the trans when removing the engine, as all you need to do is support the trans, and removing the Radiator gives you sufficient room to slip the engine forward a tad to allow you to lift it straight up.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe