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Eliminating heat riser

Started by David Greenburg, October 14, 2017, 05:52:04 PM

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David Greenburg

I tried to replace my dead '60 heat riser with a replacement from what appears to be the only source for this year, and the replacement is a total dud; it rattles like crazy and does not open even at full operating temp. So I'm thinking I'd be better off eliminating it, as others have suggested.  I've seen mention of spacers to eliminate the valve, but haven't found one for this year.  But is there any reason  I can't just take my old valve, remove the spring and use something like JB Weld to set the valve in the open position?
David Greenburg
'60 Eldorado Seville
'61 Fleetwood Sixty Special

quadfins

That is what I did on my '61. Our winters are relatively mild in coastal Virginia, so it has never affected the performance of the car, which I drive year round. Dave, are you not in California? If so, you should be fine without it.

Jim
Jim Eccleston
1961 Coupe de Ville
BATILAC
Senior Crown
DeCou Driving Award x 4

Jason Edge

#2
On  my 64 I run an Edelbrock 1411 with a modified intake (ported to match the carb primary and all exhaust exits blocked), and center exhaust channel blocked with steel plates at cylinder head, and I simply cut the valve off, leaving the rod. It looks stock, but there is no valve to block exhaust and try to force it across the engine left to right at cold start-up.

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David Greenburg

Jim- Yes, I'm in N. Cal.; winter driving not an issues.  My only interest in quick warm-up is for those instances when I'm pulling the car in/out of the garage for repairs or detailing.

Jason- That is an interesting idea.  I was looking at trying to hammer the shaft out, which would force the valve flap off the shaft,  but it did not want to budge.
David Greenburg
'60 Eldorado Seville
'61 Fleetwood Sixty Special

Jay Friedman

There is another possible solution, which I did on my '49.  I had a machine shop custom make a spacer to the exact dimensions of the heat riser body.  The only difference is that it was made without the 2 small holes at either end of of the round exhaust opening for the valve axles (if that is the right word) and, of course, without the valve and spring mechanism.  I don't remember the exact cost, as it was many years ago, but it was not unreasonable. 

I live in Georgia, where winters are mild, so the car warms up fine even in cool weather.
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."

DeVille68

Quote from: David Greenburg on October 14, 2017, 05:52:04 PM
and the replacement is a total dud; it rattles like crazy and does not open even at full operating temp.

I experienced the same thing from my 68 replacement heat riser. It looks absolutely correct, but they used a normal spring or a spring with a much too high heat rating.
So I removed the spring and changed it for the old original one. Now it works, but I will add some additional weight to the arm, because I want it to open a bit quicker.
Maybe tray switching the springs, or do what the previous posts suggest.
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

David Greenburg

I would consider switching springs, except that the problem with my old one was that the spring was bad.  So I'm going to send the replacement back. Although installed, I expect the vendor will take it back since it is clearly defective.   I sawed off the valve flap on my original and used  JB Weld to permanently set the weight in what will look like the cold/closed position, and seal up the "axle holes." I'm installing it this afternoon. 
David Greenburg
'60 Eldorado Seville
'61 Fleetwood Sixty Special

gene harl


I took a cutting torch to mine,  then hit the shaft stubs ends inside with the ark... looks stock
  Gene Harl    CLC22406       
 

gkhashem

#8
David you can wire it open, then check it occasionally to make sure it stays open. Look for water vapor on start up from the LH side exhaust to be sure it is still open.

This is what I did to mine since I forgot to bring the new one I had when I redid the exhaust system from front to rear!

To be honest I run my car about once a month or so as the weather allows and it still seems to run fine even in the winter. I just let it warm up before I take a 15 mile or so ride.  Where you are there should be no issues.
1959 Oldsmobile 98 Holiday Sports Sedan
1960 Cadillac Coupe Deville (CLC Sr #72)
1964 Oldsmobile 98 Town Sedan (OCA 1st)
1970 GMC C1500
1977 Oldsmobile 98 Regency Coupe
1978 Cadillac Coupe Deville (CLC Sr Crown #959)*
1992 Oldsmobile 98 (OCA 1st)
1996 Oldsmobile 98
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Past Cadillacs
1959 Coupe Deville
1966 Coupe Deville (Sr #861)*
1991 Eldorado Biarritz (Sr #838)

David Greenburg

George:

I have already reinstalled installed the "gutless" unit with the flapper removed and the holes sealed up and all seems good. I had tried wiring it open using a segment of coathanger wire, bud I had trouble getting it to stay on, and wanted a more permanent fix.
David Greenburg
'60 Eldorado Seville
'61 Fleetwood Sixty Special

Caddy Wizard

I used to make replacements that eliminated the valve (really, the replacement was like a thick spacer).  But I sold all of my stock of these to Fusick Automotive in the northeast.  They might still carry them...
Art Gardner


1955 S60 Fleetwood sedan (now under resto -- has been in paint shop since June 2022!)
1955 S62 Coupe (future show car? 2/3 done)
1958 Eldo Seville (2/3 done)

1949

MICHAEL LYNCH
Wisconsin

cadillacmike68

Mine works fine and won't even think of closing here in FL. I always think of forcing it always open and blocking off the crossover, but since it'll only close like twice a year down here, why bother???
Regards,
"Cadillac" Mike

Glen

The one on my 61 Coupe worked well after I loosened it up and used a heat riser lubricant called Part Ease from NAPA.  They no longer have it.  But it was graphite based.  The heat riser worked well ever after.  When I bought my 68 Eldo I did the same thing.  It is still free, but the bushings are a little worn now. 

NAPA has a Dry Graphite spray. Macs 1413.  If any oil is used on the riser it will burn and leave a sludge that binds the shaft. 

Glen Houlton CLC #727 
CLCMRC benefactor #104

David Greenburg

At one point I looked for a spacer, and must have missed that Fusick listing; when I looked at their site, I only saw spacers up through '54 or something like that.  Hopefully I'm now good. Car runs much better.
David Greenburg
'60 Eldorado Seville
'61 Fleetwood Sixty Special

76 cadillac bob

I took the one off my 1976 eldorado when I had the exhaust replaced. Here in San Diego weather is so mild we dont need to warm up our cars. It just cleaned up the manifold and car runs great without it.
CB

Jay Friedman

A potential problem with heat risers is that the mechanism can get rusty and stiff, sometimes with the valve getting stuck in the closed position. 
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."

Roger Zimmermann

When I restored my '56 de Ville in 1982-83, I could buy a new heat riser. That part worked without problem for 34 years. Last November, I sold the car.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

David Greenburg

Although sold through several different outlets/ catalogs, I think there is only one source now for net heat risers, and it is junk. When I installed it, it rattled like crazy, and did not open when fully warm. When I removed it, I noticed that one end of the "axle" had come out of the housing. It is now on its way back to the source.
David Greenburg
'60 Eldorado Seville
'61 Fleetwood Sixty Special

D.Yaros

I have not read all the replies, so this may have already been suggested.

Why not just remove/cut out the butterfly valve completely from the old heat riser and reinstall the device?  That would solve your problem and maintain original appearance.
Dave Yaros
CLC #25195
55 Coupe de Ville
92 Allante
62 Olds  

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