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drooping sun visor

Started by robpp, November 05, 2012, 12:05:50 PM

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robpp

hi

my pass sun visor droops no matter how tight I make the tension screw.
so I removed the visor to see what's happening.

looking at my pic the visor slides on and the tension screw tightens the visor to the shaft.

my problem I THINK,  is that the shaft you see in the pic  "SPINS FREELY" inside that cast L shape.

so am thinking that the visor tightens to the shaft but there is almost NO tension on that shaft and it spins with the visor attached.



so HOW DO I FIX??????

THX
ROB


the shaft I am talking about

Rob Powe
CLC 27372
1976 6EL67 Chesterfield Brown/Buckskin

waterzap

There was a writeup about this a while ago. Bruce had a nice idea, making the shaft a bit bigger. Other than that, no one seems to have a good idea. It’s the bushings that go bad.
VERY common problem.
Leesburg, AL

robpp

#2
sorry if I wasnt CLEAR..................


I have read all the previous POSTS.....my issue is different....


please READ  :'(



the bushings in the visor are fine.


its the shaft rotates in the cast piece. 

i THINK I need to make the shaft stop turning inside the cast piece.

cause no matter how WELL the visor fits the shaft, if the shaft spins, it will ALWAYS go DOWN?????




Rob Powe
CLC 27372
1976 6EL67 Chesterfield Brown/Buckskin

Classic

You might want to try Kwik-Poly  http://kwikpolyllc.com/  I would call it a 2-part epoxy (they have a different name for it).  When you first mix it, it "is initially a very thin fluid combination much like water".  That's no exaggeration.  But is sets up in seconds (about 15?), so you have to be quick.  Remove the sunvisor bracket and put it lightly in a vise with the shaft vertical.  Get a few small disposable syringes (I got mine via Amazon).  Mix a tiny amount in the condiment cup which they provide.  Suck it quickly into the syringe and then apply the mix around where the shaft enters the bracket and let it wick in.  Speed is essential so you might want to practice on a piece of scrap to get the steps memorized.  The syringes can only be used once as the residual epoxy locks them up in seconds.  You might want to call Kwik-Poly first to get additional input from them.
Gene Menne
CLC #474

The Tassie Devil(le)

If you cannot get it out to secure it by securing it with glue, one way to stop the shaft spinning woulds be to drill an off-set hole in the outer and through the shaft and insert a roll pin in the hole.

You could do it in such a way that it wouldn't look out of place.

Plus, by off-setting the hole, you won't severely weaken the casting as if it was drilled in the middle.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

robpp

Thanks guys.

THat kwikpoly looks like it could work. I have some other projects in mind too so thanks for that lead.

I worry about trying to add a set screw or pin as I think the shaft will be hard to penetrate.



I ordered some kwikpoly and will report back/

Rob Powe
CLC 27372
1976 6EL67 Chesterfield Brown/Buckskin

Gene Beaird

I'd second the epoxy recommendation.  If that rod doesn't have to come out of the mount to allow the visor to come off the windshield frame in any way, I'd hit it with some good two-part epoxy and see how long it lasts.  The only problems I see are heat making the parts move around enough to keep the epoxy a permanent fix, but you can always chip off the old and re-epoxy it if it ever quits holding.

Gene Beaird,
1968 Calais
1979 Seville
Pearland, Texas
CLC Member No. 29873

The Tassie Devil(le)

When using the epoxy, make sure you make a few internal "gouges" in both the male and female parts so that the epoxy has some reinforcing spots to create the required "key-way" to retain the solidity and stopping lateral movement.

But, this can only be done if the shaft can be removed from the holder before-hand.   If it can't, then it will be difficult to get the epoxy to penetrate sufficiently.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

robpp

yeah i need something THIN and CREEPY LOL

thanks!
Rob Powe
CLC 27372
1976 6EL67 Chesterfield Brown/Buckskin

The Tassie Devil(le)

What about Loctite Super Retaining compound?   Or Super Bearing Mount?

It should flow in, and then wipe the excess away.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

robpp

Like engine bearing loctite......I think its the green one.

Thanks didn't think of that. I may even have some from Harley days lol.

Rob Powe
CLC 27372
1976 6EL67 Chesterfield Brown/Buckskin

Renato

I made a plastic shaft to my Caddy. It worked.
R. Bognar

waterzap

Any photos of the plastic shaft?
Then you dont need to use the plastic bushings?
Leesburg, AL

Doug Kramer, CLC #26429

Just found this topic. I had same problem on my '76 Eldo., shaft spinning in the swivel casting, but would not come out. I drilled and inserted a small pin. Found that the shaft does drill easily; is not too hard. Worked for me, and not too easy to see the fix.

Doug Kramer