I've had my 73 Eldo convertible since 1988 and the driver's window has gone up and down as expected until recently. Now it comes down with the same speed until you get to the last 3 or 4 inches. Then it's coaxing by hand and gingerly hitting the down button to get it all the way down. It then goes up just fine, for its age. I'm semi-handy and have the service manual but wonder if I should leave this to the pros or if it's a relatively simple fix. Anyone had this affliction?
Sounds like there is some crap caught in the sliders, creating a resistance.
Bruce. >:D
Is it like it just gets stiff for that last bit or is it like it hits something? Mine (drivers window on a 73) actually feels like it hits something. Sometimes I hear a clunk and it keeps going, other times I have to grab the glass and kinda wiggle it around to get past that point. I have no idea what the issue is, its been on the to do list for years now. Just too many things higher on the list for when there is time and money to work on stuff.
It doesn't seem like window is hitting anything. It just reaches a point where it's like pushing through cold molasses the last couple inches down. Seems like the glass otherwise tracks well, unlike the passenger window. Almost like any grease in the system has really stiffened up. Just not sure if it's fixable by an amateur even if I could figure out how to get to the window mechanism.
The way these windows operate, there has to be a build-up of grease/dirt-filled grease or other matter that is limiting the movement.
Unlike the older glass runs, there in no felt filled channels at either end of the glass to come adrift and build up in the grooves, as the alignment is controlled by a vertical tube, mounted in the centre of the door, and sliders running around it.
Then there is the power window motor gearing and sliding roller and slide.
This is one of those times when the Fisher Body Service Manual comes in really handy. Also the shop Manual for all other stuff.
Bruce. >:D
Sounds like a tired motor. Armature is probably covered in brush residue. The point the window stops is likely the same spot where spring presure on the glass is highest. The weak motor can't overcome the pressure, and that's why it needs help.
The window goes up easier because the spring pressure is helping the motor raise the glass.
Dried grease in the channels isn't helping either, but a strong motor sounds like the repair you need. Of course while you're in there clean and regreased the channels and rollers.
Tim
Does that rod have grease on it or does that have some sort of lube free plastic guides on it?
I have both manuals (Fisher and service) but so often they assume you already know stuff, and I often don't. The Caddy is now wearing its winter sweater in a storage facility so I'll read through the manuals and see if the language is understandable and maybe tackle it this spring. Looking at that driver's door is pretty intimidating, though! I'll bet the problem is a combo of all your suggestions and I thank you all for your ideas.
There was at least one good thread this summer here about taking the door apart. Its not really that bad if you know where the screws are hidden and where to pry. Its also worth picking up an assortment of trim removal tools. The cheap ones work fine especially for how often a DIY person needs them.
I have a drivers window that goes down fine, and then gets hung up on the outside mirror wire, I had the inner door panel fixed, I slammed the door and the wire came loose catching the glass the last inch or two, I have to find a place to tie off the mirror adjustment line away from the glass I also had the rubber gasket where the door jamb is grab the glass because it had come loose causing the window to jam up until I glued it back in place. Two possibilities.
There is a retainer clip in the door for the mirror's wire loom to lock into.....keeping it away from the window. If you your mirror was replaced, it could be that somebody failed to reseat the cable into the clip....or the clip maybe broke off (I rarely find that though). Look in the upper door area (inside, where the door panel would roughly meet the dash).