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My 1940 LaSalle convertible coupe restoration pictures, documents & parts list

Started by Jim Beard, July 09, 2010, 11:29:53 AM

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Jim Beard

For those of you who like to watch projects, here are some pictures, commentary and technical stuff on the resto of my 1940 LaSalle convertible coupe. The first picture is the way she was in the barn when I got her in June of 2010.

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Here are the scans of my 1940 LaSalle operating hints manual - http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii230/silamanajik/1940%20LaSalle%20Operating%20Hints%20Manual/

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I have just finished scanning my original catalog of color chips and color combinations for 1934 to 1941 Cadillac & LaSalle. They are available for viewing at the link below. The colors of the chips with the scans are not accurate. If anybody needs I can loan out the page they need. The actual colors of the original chips are very good for matching. I hope this info will help. There is also a page that shows the interior combinations for 1941. I know there are other pages with these same scans, but I have a couple they do not.

http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii230/silamanajik/34-41%20Cadillac%20LaSalle%20paint%20chips%20color%20combos/?start=all

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The following link are the scans of my complete 1940 Cadillac-LaSalle serviceman and fisher body service bulletins for 1940. There are 2 index pages for the serviceman bulletins to quickly find a topic.

http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii230/silamanajik/1940%20serviceman%20and%20fisher%20body%20service%20bulletins/?start=all

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Here is a link to a page of all my pictures I am taking of this LaSalle as it is restored - http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii230/silamanajik/1940%20LaSalle/?albumview=slideshow#/grid

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Below is a list of parts I am using that you can get at your local parts store. I will update this list as I keep getting parts.

7lb radiator cap - stant #10206
front sway bar link kit - moog # k8265
brake stop switch - standard brand #sls24
rear end stabilizer bushings - steele #70-0406-33
fan belt - gates - 44411
generator belt - gates tr28483
2 7/8" pinion seal - C/R # 18688
rear differential carrier gasket - best gasket #10113e
front wheel spindle seal - SKF #18772
Rear wheel axle seal - SKF # 15761
Transmission gasket set - best gasket #8105
Water pump rebuild kit - EGGE  WS-63
Rear transmission seal - National 473228
Brake lines and handbrake cables - inline tube


Jim Beard

After we had the frame straightened we stripped and cleaned the chassis and suspension and finished painting the chassis last night.

35-709

1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

R Schroeder

I love to follow these. I cant believe what a couple of other guys are doing on there cars. Man , its a lot of work.
Roy

Jim Beard

Well I got into the motor and found out it is the original matching numbers motor. It needs some help though, it has already been bored to 346 and needs one of the cylinders sleeved because of some severe corrosion. It also needs the top of the block decked because the heat riser area is worn away and there is not enough left to seal with a gasket. Lucky for me I have 2 stock 322 motors that will work as long as one of them has no cracks. I think I will just bag the original block and put it away for safe keeping. Something interesting I did find out was that this motor was a 346, had a 3/4 cam and solid lifters with a big stromberg on it. Apparently it used to be a streetracer back in the late 40' - early 50's. It was painted bright yellow and was giving the Olds rockets a run for their money.

Steve Passmore

That sure is some heavy rust in that bore Jim, much like all the cars I get to do.
Steve

Present
1937 60 convertible coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe
1941 62 coupe

Previous
1936 70 Sport coupe
1937 85 series V12 sedan
1938 60 coupe
1938 50 coupe
1939 60S
1940 62 coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe x2
1941 61 coupe
1941 61 sedan x2
1941 62 sedan x2
1947 62 sedan
1959 62 coupe

Jim Beard

The body will stay just like it is with the black lacquer that was put on in 1969 until next winter when we do the body.  The car is almost rust free and I want to enjoy it this year before the snow sets in. So we are going to do everything but the body for right now. I will just take a weekend and put the body back on it and drive it. As for the color combo I am not sure yet. It will be either the way it came from the factory - longkey green with red leather and tan top, or black body and top with red interior and wheels.

Jim Beard

I got tired of sandblasting outside in the sun making a mess so I got myself a new toy. This makes it much easier.

Jim Beard

It takes up allot of room when you tear apart cars!

Jim Beard

Just stripped a bunch of small stuff in the new blast cabinet and got them coated with epoxy primer.

Jim Beard

Here are some old pics of my car, the son of the guy I bought it from just sent me. The first one is when it had the paintbrush applied "racing" yellow paint job. The other 2 are after he had a black laquer job done on it.

The Tassie Devil(le)

Now, that is what I call a good-sized workshop.

Better move the ladder before you trip over it.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Jim Beard

It is actually an old chevrolet dealership building that was built in 1948. It is 11,000 sq. ft. and built like a tank. I bought it and run my business out of it. The corner where the LaSalle is at is where we do all our restorations. The rest of the shop is dedicated to making money so we can play with our old cars. Most all the old employees of the chevy dealership come in on a regular basis and tell us stories and bring us old parts and memorabilia they have laying around of when they used to work here. They did sales, service and had a body shop in this building.

Otto Skorzeny

fward

Ask not what your country can do for you, but what you can do for YOURSELF

HUGE VENDOR LIST CLICK HERE

Jim Beard

I own a detailing and paintless dent removal shop. We do allot of other things here too including painting and classic cars. I get to play with cars all day. Can't beat it.

Jim Beard

Just got my motor back, had to bore it .040" ,it had .020 taper in the cylinder walls. All new goodies inside too. Can't wait to put it together!

markl

Jim,
From the first photo it looks like you did not switch to Stainless Steel Valves.  Don't know if you've read Walt Brewer's series of articles about rebuilding the Cad/Lasalle Flathead, but he rather emphatically recommended switching to SS valves due to unleaded fuel.  Did you or your re-builder have an opinion on this?  My LaSalle engine is still only partially assembled, but when I did the major work (about 35 years ago) I just used the standard valves.  Unleaded was optional at that time, so it wasn't an issue.

As I've mentioned before in a previous post under Technical & Authenticity,  I wonder if it is really necessary to change out the intake valve as it operates at a lower temperature.  Anyhow, I'd like to hear your take on this issue.

Mark Lowery, CLC #25216

Jim Beard

Actually I run high octane fuel and TEL additive in my classic motors so I dont have the unleaded ethanol fuel problems with the internals or vapor lock.

markl

Jim,
Well, an interesting solution to a vexing problem, but unfortunately, I don't think I'll be able to emulate your practice.  When I get done w/ my restoration (if I live long enough!) I want to be able to take it on some fairly long runs, and I don't think I can give her a steady diet of AV gas.  Plus, I can't imagine that TELead will be available indefinitely.  I too don't want to do things twice, so that's why I'm trying to get to the bottom of the SS Valve issue, particularly the intakes.

BTW, are you going to use a stock cam, or are you reconditioning the 3/4 cam that was in the original 322?

Mark Lowery CLC# 25216

Jim Beard

I put a stock profile cam in, the previous owner told me the 3/4 cam and solid lifters made for a noisy motor. I am not planning on doing any racing with it so I figured the stocker was the way to go.