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1968 DeVille Convertible - Restoration

Started by DeVille68, April 27, 2014, 02:02:45 PM

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DeVille68

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1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

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1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

cadman56

Nicolas,
Can you provide the link to your video of pulling the body off the frame?
And the parts I had for seat belt covers are not usable, sorry.
My restoration blog would probably be best located on the Modified Forum as I plan on many major upgrades inside & outside of the car.
Thanks, Larry
1956 Cadillac Coupe deVille (sold)
1956 Cadillac Convertible (sold)
1956 Cadillac Eldorado Seville (sold)
1967 Cadillac Eldorado (sold)
1968 Cadillac Convertible (Sold)
1991 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham dElegance
Larry Blanchard CLC #5820

dwbic

Quote from: DeVille68 on January 16, 2016, 02:39:19 PM

Hi Don
I guess I need to buy some parts in different color and try to paint em. What pieces do you have?

How did you match the color?
I could not find dark green as a standard color on the SEM website.

They write that their system is not a dye but a paint. What is a dye?

Best regards,
Nicolas

Hi Nicolas,

Are these the parts you are looking for?
http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_30571_zpsgkpynfkd.jpg.html
http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_30601_zpsfz4adviq.jpg.html

I also have the covers for the power seat rails - both sides (didn't take a picture)

Don
Don

dwbic

Nicolas,

Regarding the SEM Color Coat, the colors on a computer screen (and even on the cap of the spray can) are difficult to match from.  I tried one color that I thought would match, but it was too light a shade, so I tried another that appeared darker and it matched pretty well.  I don't see much for green in their colors - you may have to look into another brand of vinyl paint.

Best regards,
Don
Don

DeVille68

Quote from: cadman56 on January 17, 2016, 01:24:02 PM
Can you provide the link to your video of pulling the body off the frame?
Hi Larry,

My car is still in drivable condition! Luckely.
I don't plan on doing a full restoration --- ever?

But you might read don's blog and look at his pictures. He is perusing this major project. 
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

Hi Don,

Looking at the pictures I say yes. But the ones for the seat belt screw at the floor are broken?
I am also missing the rail cover on the passenger side.

Regarding color: Hm.. have to ask and google a bit.

Thanks!
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

#107
Next update on my rear side panel: On the backside of the panel there were two cracks. The panel still showed good structural integrity but I wanted to fix these cracks anyway. Picture 1 and 2

So I started out by grinding a little groove into the cracks, enlarging them such that the epoxy and the fiber glass would bond better to the panel. Then I sanded the area with a rough sandpaper. Then I cut some fiber glass such that they would fit the area and also such that they would "go" around the edges. With some "re-leave" cuts.
Then I mixed only about 30gr of epoxy and "primed" the area before butting the fiber glass on the cracked area. I then massaged the epoxy such that the fiber was fully soaked.  The last picture shows the drying process. I will need to do quite some sanding to get the restored area smooth again. You don't want that this portion sticks out because your panel might not fit as tight anymore.
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

Okey, so I did not update this thread for a long time. A lot of work done though. In the mean time I was also at the GN 2016 in Vegas. Was very nice! Beautiful weather. Got some interior plastic parts from Don.

This weekend I finally had time to work on the car again. Interior is still out, I am adjusting the windows. Now is my last opportunity, because I don't want to remove the door panels again. So I need to make sure all the windows fit and seal perfectly against the roof rail and the back windows.

The task of adjusting the windows is quite simple but takes forever. You only have a change of doing it properly if you work in increments and take your time. Loosen the screw, adjust by one or two turns. Tighten the screw again. Get up, window up and down. Sit down again. Loosen the screws.....ow boy. I am tired...

Well first I had to fix one screw for adjusting the window rail position/angle.  The threads were gone. First I had to make me a thread insert ( size M4 ) out of aluminium on my fathers lathe. Then I removed the bad threads and cut a M4 thread on the thinner shaft of the original screw, also using the lathe. Then I installed the thread insert by squeezing it with another screw. Actually, there is a tool you can buy, but I didn't had it.

It worked perfectly and I was able to adjust the window just right.

Next week I hope to do a water test - check how good the windows seal. One problem remains though. I think someone "played" with my roof and convertible top mechanism. I could not adjust the windows high enough such that they would go deep enough into the roof rail weatherstrip. The middle bow of the top mechanism seems to be too high. So my idea is to remove the weatherstrip and but some neoprene lining under it to lower its position. That should help to make a good seal - against water and wind noise.
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

I finally finished my wood veneer restoration.

Before and after: my freshly restored original Brazilian rosewood veneer! 68 was the last year Cadillac used real wood. The insert that OPGI sells is wrong, wrong type of wood. I found the correct wood, if enough people are interested I might reproduce some.

The wood itself is glued to a thin metal sheet. This assembly is then glued to the instrument panel. I just used a professional contact force glue.

It turned out very good. What a difference this wood make. I was driving around for three years now without the wood (just the shiny back panel)
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

I also fixed my passenger side window switch. The cover that holds the clips in position was missing. Since I didn't had a replacement I just made my own cover out of Plexiglas. As you can see, it worked quite well. Not pretty but functional. I used a soldering iron to "melt" the studs and the new Plexiglas together. Then I wrapped the backside of the switch with electric tape to prevent moisture from entering the switch.


A few weeks ago I also repaired the wiring harness in the back seat area. Radio, courtesy light, cigar lighter. The courtesy light was cut up before with some stupid press fit clips. I removed them and soldered a proper connector to the ends. Now I don't have any open crimps hanging in the air, possibly making contact with the metal surrounding it. (In the picture it is the middle one, the white one)

I did blew a fuse  once while working / removing the back side panels. Those are still not in. Still working on them.
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

Since I had the car I was wondering why my driver side went window had so much play in it when I tried to open or close it. The window itself did not have too much play.

Well I found out that the vent window regulator was missing the bottom bushing and the casing had three cracks!
No wonder there was play in the mechanism. I guess this is still a relict of the damage to the driver side many years ago.
Now I had to buy a good used vent window regulator. Hope to install it in two weeks.

I also found out why my heating system does not adjust the temp or flap - well the transducer is missing!  :o ::)
It is mounted just below the glove box on the firewall just above the passengers feet.
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

Highwayman68

Quote from: DeVille68 on May 22, 2016, 04:49:31 PM
I finally finished my wood veneer restoration.

Before and after: my freshly restored original Brazilian rosewood veneer! 68 was the last year Cadillac used real wood. The insert that OPGI sells is wrong, wrong type of wood. I found the correct wood, if enough people are interested I might reproduce some.

The wood itself is glued to a thin metal sheet. This assembly is then glued to the instrument panel. I just used a professional contact force glue.

It turned out very good. What a difference this wood make. I was driving around for three years now without the wood (just the shiny back panel)

I am interested!
1968 Fleetwood Purchased in 1981

DeVille68

Lots of work done in the last couple of days!

(1) My "new" vent window regulator arrived. I got it from USA parts supply. Came a described, worked good. Had to put some grease in it. I did fill a little zipper bag with grease and closed it. Then I cut a very small edge of the bag and pushed this edge into a opening of the regulator case near the gear. Then I squeezed the bag and "injected" the grease into the assembly. Worked amazingly well.

(2) I did adjust my windows for a better seal but I could not bring the windows up enough to seal perfectly with the top roof rail weather strip. So I did glue some Neoprene window setting strip to the backside. I controlled the amount of "lift" by putting one, two or three strips of Neoprene to the backside. Then I glued the "assembly" back to the roof rail and secured it with the screws.  No almost all the wind noise is gone and no water enters the cabin no more.

(3) I also found another source of rattling noise - the bracket for mounting the driver side mirror made contact with the door skin. So I fixed that by pushing some Butyl in between them - now it is silent again! Especially when closing the door!

1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

Hello,
I need some help from you guys. I replaced my air filter with an K&N unit (E-1510). Unfortunately the height of this filter is about 2mm more than my old one was. So it will fit fine, you won't notice a difference very easily. I noticed this difference only because I noticed that no air would be sucked through the snorkel! (while in idle)

I don't want to replace the filter with another one, so there are only two options for me. Remove some material of of the filter or replace the air filter lid gasket with a new rubber, which will seal better on the edge of the air filter base.

Does anyone know where I could get a new air filter lid gasket / rubber?
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

Ok, so I think it is sad that nobody replied to my question. Nobody replaces these gaskets or nobody has issues with them getting old??

Well I found a local company where I bought a sponge rubber strip 9mm by 9mm in black. I removed the old hard rubber and laid the new one in the groove. Now the air filter lid seals properly against the base and the air is drawn through the snorkel only. 

The picture below shows you in detail which gasket I mean. In the right corner you can see the new rubber strip.
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

Since years I had an issue with my door panels. I could mount them correctly and put all the screws in, but after shutting the door once the whole panel would pop up and would not align with the rear shelf panel.

Over the years now I noticed this issue one other Cadillacs too. I searched for some kind of fixture but was never satisfied.

Just recently I finished all the wood restoration, quarter window and harness. So I had to do a final assembly of my panels. I now created a special bracket which I would mount on the lip inside the opening for the window channel. I added a threaded hole to it too. I also drilled a hole through the weather strip on the panel and through the backing metal strip. I then put a screw through the rubber and the metal strip and aligned it with the new bracket below.
This way I can tighten the edge of the door panel down to keep it from popping up and achieve a perfect alignment with the rear shelf panel. 

Check out the pictures below.

The last picture show the view from above. You can see that I added another metal strip to distribute the force in order to not destroy the weatherstrip. I painted it black and no one will ever notice!
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

Hi guys

I forgot to upload some pictures of my finished interior. Well, the wood and the door panes are finished.
Still working on the seat belt covers and the metal covers that go on top of the rear shell panels. They cover up the hole where the convertible top mechanism go.
Mine are rusted and I need to find a way to replicate the texture and color. (dark green).

But here are some pictures.
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

This is what a wrong position of the heat riser valve can do to your carburetor!

--> Burning the gaskets and warping the metal.

Just a few weeks before I had installed my freshly restored carburetor. Well I disassembled it again just to be sure. No damage luckily.

The heat riser valve was not stuck - I had secured it in the wrong position. (almost closed)
Look at the two pictures below:
"heat riser open" - which shows you the position of the valve (view from the bottom of the car, upwards) when it is fully hot.
"heat riser closed" - which shows you the position of the valve when cold.

Notice that my valve is missing both end stops (the two tabs you see on other photos)

All other heat riser I have seen work with the same two positions, they just look differently.
Here is a website of a company that produces heat riser valves: http://www.hamiltonmanufacturing.ca/hrv.htm



I had mine working too long in the wrong position and the heat also damaged that rod, so I need to remove the valve in the winter and try to repair it.
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)

DeVille68

#119
I am also trying to balance my tires better, because I have some vibrations at 30, 60 and 120 km/h.
Not harmful but annoying. I had my tires balanced by a shop about a year ago, but I was not there and they did put the tires on the machine by the hole of the wheel.
Well this is not the correct circle or central point of the wheel on the car.
Thus I made myself an adapter plate which slides snugly on the shaft of the balancing machine but mounts to the tire/wheel just as the axle hub would.

This way I can be sure that I balance the correct central point.

This central point of the five wheel lug studs could still not be the same as the central point of the outside diameter of the tire itself. Hence I will check the roundness of the tire using a dial gauge.

I also balance my rear brake drum - I am just curious if they are indeed balanced or and if by how much I need to correct them.
Will be interesting I keep you updated.

Regards,
Nicolas
1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible (silver pine green)