Laurie's 1970 Fleetwood Brougham Restoration

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Got some quality work done on The Ark today. Changed the plugs and wires. Previous plugs were gapped over 40 when 35 is stated in the shop manual, chinese wires replaced with correct AC Delco. Car starts like it has fuel injection now, running even smoother but I still think when the cap, points, and condenser are replaced and the timing is tuned to 94 octane, it will be a stellar difference. Might even increase my fuel mileage to 10mpg!

You can land a helo on the hood of this car, and its a wrestling match to get it open and shut, so I gave the hinges a good blast of silicone spray, helped quite a bit.

Went for the air filter and was shocked, not only was it the wrong size (too small) it was literally soaked in oil and Dex6. How this car breathed at all astounds me. Wiped it all up and put in the proper AC Delco air filter, shaking my head, such a BASIC, easy mntx item. On to the power steering fluid. Sucked out the pump with a turkey baster, and, (don't laugh) I wept. It was BLACK, just thick black ooze. For God's sake its the easiest fluid to change on the car, no excuse for this poor beast to have been so abused. Refilled with Dex6, start car, put in gear, (held it with the emergency brake since my brake system is INOP) turn the wheel to the stops left and right a dozen times, stop car. Remove power steering dip stick and suck out the fluid again... It took 5 (five) of these evolutions to get the fluid red. Almost 3 quarts of Dex6, but its done. And the steering got even more buttery with every evolution. I kept apologizing to the car, life is different for you now baby... smh.

Pried off the rusty master cylinder cover, rear section was bone dry and the rubber gasket was sucked down as far as it could go. The brake fluid leak is in the rear end. Didn't see the sense in filling it back up since its just going to leak out again. It will be flat bedded to Hyannis Vintage Auto when Michael calls for it, the driver can use the emergency brake, which works fine.

I had every intention of R&Ring the coolant and changing out the thermostat... until I noticed one of the therm bolts is directly under the air compressor, I don't have the socket type to fit under there. And I can't find the radiator petcock with a search warrant. So my flushing will consist of removing the bottom radiator hose, let it drain, put the hose back on, fill with water, run car and repeat until the fluid coming out of the bottom of radiator is clear water and clean. I want to change 2 hoses, autozone hoses are fine, I'll do this. Then fill it back up with straight water, new rad cap, and let the Gods at Hyannis Vintage Auto change the thermostat and refill with Prestone.

The last of the mntx I can do here without a lift is to change PCV valve and clean the crankcase breather. Can't wait to see what I find doing both. This poor car... They DON'T make cars like this any more and haven't for decades.

And I finished cleaning up just as the rain started, nice. Took the engine degreaser and gasket cement back to Autozone, I'm not going to wash the engine, the risk/reward value just isn't there. Somewhere Mike smiles...

I really wanted to drive the car, just around the block. But that final pre-flight item was the brake check. Dash board *BRAKES* light went on and the peddle to the floor.

48 years later a major malfunction warning system still works as intended with no computer involved, let that sink in...

\m/
Laurie!

[WTL]

My master cylinder got to be about like that...the rear rubber brake line had collapsed. 

10 mpg?  Hwy?  After my latest tuneup, I'm up to about 14 hwy.  Even when in bad shape it's been consistently above 12, and yet, Ive heard pretty widely variant numbers from 18 (which I doubt) to 8, which has to be indicative of issues.

Luckily, despite the lack of service your Fleetwood previously received, these cars are tough.  If you put miles on it like I have, you eventually will go through an issue a month until it's solid. 

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

My master cylinder got to be about like that...the rear rubber brake line had collapsed. 

10 mpg?  Hwy?  After my latest tuneup, I'm up to about 14 hwy.  Even when in bad shape it's been consistently above 12, and yet, Ive heard pretty widely variant numbers from 18 (which I doubt) to 8, which has to be indicative of issues.

Luckily, despite the lack of service your Fleetwood previously received, these cars are tough.  If you put miles on it like I have, you eventually will go through an issue a month until it's solid.

One of the things we were impressed with its first time on a lift at Lou's Custom Exhaust WAS the brake lines, they all looked new. I'm sure its something silly.

As far as mileage, I might have 15 miles driving total on the car, way too soon to know for real what it will get for mileage. Not that it matters, its just going to shows and drive-ins.

An issue a month? If you were an Indian I'd name you Black Cloud. 

\m/
Laurie!

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

HA! Got the IM today to "unwrap the tires". Right up there with "RIDERS UP!"

...so excited... Towel prevents 2 white walls from touching.

\m/
Laurie

[savemy67]

Hello Laurie,

The attached picture shows the open-end wrench I bent for the express purpose of removing that thermostat housing bolt under the A/C/ compressor on a '69.  That was 41 years ago, and the wrench has been in the "special tools" drawer of my tool chest ever since.

Christopher Winter

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Hello Laurie,

The attached picture shows the open-end wrench I bent for the express purpose of removing that thermostat housing bolt under the A/C/ compressor on a '69.  That was 41 years ago, and the wrench has been in the "special tools" drawer of my tool chest ever since.

Christopher Winter

I love it, custom made tool for a job. Just like Skunk Works!

\m/
Laurie!

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

There is no petcock on this radiator, anywhere.
Bottom hose will come off to drain... after I borrow a flathead screwdriver 3' long.

\m/
Laurie!

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

It took 6 (six) flushes to clean out the cooling system. This poor car. All the crud is out, used the bottom hose to drain since there's no petcock. Keeping it empty, replacing some hoses tomorrow. Including the ones in the resevoir which were nearly disintegrated. Might have been the DEAD MOUSE I found in there? Eewww... Its been bleached, now its in my sink soaking, so much crud on the bottom. I'll fill it back up with water when I'm done.

Filled up the master cylinder with fluid, no brakes going forward pumping of course, at least the EB works. Backing up pumping the brakes, got my brakes back, light went out. Chances of me driving this car are somewhere between 0 and -2%. I'll let the Gods at HVA find out what part failed and fix it properly first. 

\m/
Laurie!

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

The upper heater hose, from the top of the heater core to the top of the radiator...
It had the old time twist clamps on it, and it was getting swollen and mottled at the radiator, time to change.
A direct replacement hose was $50 without shipping... Off to Autozone.

They purported to have a replacement hose for that, cool! Took a look at it, the bends were in all the wrong places and it was 1 1/2" in diameter, this one is 3/4". Hey, just give me 4' of 3/4" heater hose and I'm home free.

My friend Charlie who owns 33 cars warned me last night about the connection at the heater core. Its probably original and that hose is welded on by now. If you try to twist off the hose you'll break the heater core, that pipe is copper. Get the clamp off then use a sharp box cutter and cut the hose away. Boy was he right.

Now I'm trying to take that hard left out of the heater core and up to the top of the front right wheel well, kink city. Back to Autozone, got a 45 degree piece of hose, about 4" long on each side and 3/4" and a heater hose connector set. Connected the 45 to the heater core, connected the long piece of hose, and I was looking like a genius.

Now the heater core is grouchy, having a really hard time dry fitting the new hose on, squirt of silicone, full compliance. I dry fit everything first, then went back and tightened up the clamps. Really took my time fitting the one to the radiator, cutting off just a little at a time until it fit without a kink. Success!

Filled her up with water (the shop is going to do the therm, no sense in adding real coolant now) while she was running, then capped. Full pressure, no leaks! \m/

Devised a great trick to get those old style clamps off, its called a Dremel with a cutting wheel. Boom.

The bottom hose at the heater core needs to be changed too. But the twist clamp is right on the firewall, no room for the Dremel, no way to get pliers on it. I'm sure the guys at the body shop will have an idea. I'll change that too, same way. Some previous turnip already butchered that hose with a piece of pipe between 2 pieces, ugh. I'll make it pretty and secure, though not 'correct'.

There are 2 places I've noticed where vacuum lines should be: one at the PCV valve area and one on top of the engine, just forward of the snorkel. A previous turnip left a bit of hose - and a screw in both of them, it looks so dorky. I was in my shop manual for 2 hours last night, found nothing. Can someone help? There's supposed to be a small vacuum line forward of the PCV valve, to where? And that trilogy of vacuum lines that come together on top of the engine, to the right of the air compressor, what does the middle vacuum line go to?

Grateful as always,
\m/
Laurie

[Chuck Swanson]

If they are tower clamps like this you should try to save.  Even if you don't reuse yourself, they are worth something as the repros suck   Easy to restore them for those that are going original

Some NOS ones for comparison  https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Wittek-Tower-Hose-Clamp-1965-1966-Radiator-Corvette-GTO-Genuine-Original-GM/122993025058?hash=item1ca2f4a022:g:JYYAAMXQeKNTPA1K&vxp=mtr

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

OMG!!!!!!!!!

No good scrounging around the wrecking yards for those down here.

Bruce.

[Dan LeBlanc]

Here you go.

[Chuck Swanson]

I use the repros, and have spares  in case they bend wrong.  Usually hold top with pliers when installing because metal so thin.  These are only a few bucks each:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wittek-Clamp-dated-4-66-2-1-16/262816416809?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Chuck

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Hey Chuck, these are the wire clamps. The tower clamps I could try to unscrew. There are a couple of these tower clamps still in the car.
\m/
Laurie

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Here you go.

Oh Dan, YOU RAAAWK!
Now to figure out 'why' those 2 lines were disconnected, neutered.
And what negative impact reconnecting them would induce?
THANK YOU!
\m/
Laurie!

[Chuck Swanson]

Hey Chuck, these are the wire clamps. The tower clamps I could try to unscrew. There are a couple of these tower clamps still in the car.
\m/
Laurie

Ahh nice.  Those are readily available, sometimes at your local hardware store.  FYI, there is a special tool that makes it easy to remove these.  Here is one for example:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25198?seid=srese2&cm_mmc=pla-msn-_-shopping-_-srese2-_-oem-specialty-tools


Some PB Blaster on the tower clamps usually helps.  Not a big deal if the screw breaks as you can replace, or steal from a repro clamp.  Flat head screwdriver carefully under clamping part helps to remove.  Pet peeve of mine using towers even if not one of my show cars, as don't like the ugly worm clamps

Chuck

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Ahh nice.  Those are readily available, sometimes at your local hardware store.  FYI, there is a special tool that makes it easy to remove these.  Here is one for example:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25198?seid=srese2&cm_mmc=pla-msn-_-shopping-_-srese2-_-oem-specialty-tools


Some PB Blaster on the tower clamps usually helps.  Not a big deal if the screw breaks as you can replace, or steal from a repro clamp.  Flat head screwdriver carefully under clamping part helps to remove.  Pet peeve of mine using towers even if not one of my show cars, as don't like the ugly worm clamps

Chuck

Cool tool! If I was going to stay with the wire clamps I'd get one.
\m/
Laurie

[Dan LeBlanc]

Oh Dan, YOU RAAAWK!
Now to figure out 'why' those 2 lines were disconnected, neutered.
And what negative impact reconnecting them would induce?
THANK YOU!
\m/
Laurie!

Mine are removed and capped off and a line ran from the ported vacuum on the carburetor directly to the distributor.

Basically, it would not advance timing unless the car was in 3rd gear or something like that and would advance the timing if the engine got too hot to speed up idle.

Will run just fine without it.  It was essentially an early form of emissions control.

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Mine are removed and capped off and a line ran from the ported vacuum on the carburetor directly to the distributor.

Basically, it would not advance timing unless the car was in 3rd gear or something like that and would advance the timing if the engine got too hot to speed up idle.

Will run just fine without it.  It was essentially an early form of emissions control.

So...
If I find other means of getting rid of the dorky "tube with a screw in it" look, it won't hurt the car? What if I want to stomp on The Ark for a few miles just to blow it out? I'd take pictures of what I'm talking about but there's heavy rain and 60mph wind out there now....
\m/
Laurie?

[Dan LeBlanc]

I know exactly what you're referring to.  You can buy caps for vacuum ports to block them off . . . think of them as little condoms for the ports.