Correct Body Manual for 1960 ?

[Scott Halver]

Hello, I'm getting ready to remove all of the chrome off my 1960 Eldorado Seville (time to paint car).   Someone said, get the Fisher Body Manual ..........  tells how the trim is attached, what to expect etc.   We looked on-line and found:   1959 Cadillac Body Training Manual by Fisher    ...........   is that the best or correct manual ?   I have the Eldorado trim across the top of the doors and quarter panels and along the bottom of the car.   Thank You for Your Help, SHalver CLC #24920

[David Greenburg]

Scott:

Unfortunately, there is no body manual for cars of that era; all you get is what is in the “Body” section of the shop manual.  But I have done what you are about to do and can give you some insight.  The most critical thing is to preserve and protect as many of the little wire  “figure 8” retaining clips that are used to hold the thin “bead moldings” on.  They are basically “unobtanium.” You will see repros, but they don’t fit quite right. There are workarounds that I can describe (involving grinding the heads off small screws to use in place of the clips.  On my car I had to remove the rear seat trim panels in order to access bolts that were used to attach the leading edges of the rear bead molding sections ( not sure if this was factory or if some of the clips had been replaced by previous owners).

[76eldo]

I need to do the same thing on a 60 Seville.
I'm worried about the drip rail moldings and moldings around the front and back windscreens.

[David Greenburg]

I don’t have experience with the front or rear windshield trim, with the exception of the trim at the bottom of the rear windshield ( lie down in the trunk for easiest acces, and be gentle involving the clips, as they tend to be rusty).  The other place to be gentle is removing the “window sill” trim at the base of the rear quarter windows.  There is a very fragile clip about midway along the length of that trim that is also prone to rust, and very hard to find from parts vendors.  Even the stupid expensive ones that have just about everything for a price.

[Scott Halver]

Hello David,
Thank you for the heads-up.   I am not versed in body work but guess I'm about to learn.   SHalver CLC #24920

[David Greenburg]

Scott-

I’m not well-versed in bodywork either in terms of working with sheet metal, welding, etc., but for better or worse, I’ve had experience removing the trim on ‘60 Eldos.  Removed most of mine twice in the past four years.  Hope to never to it again.

[David Greenburg]

Scott-

Off topic, but as the caretaker of a one-owner/one family Seville, I’m hoping you might be able to tell me weather your car has rubber seals on the fender skirts. ‘59’s do, ‘61’s do not, and I’ve never been able to get a definitive answer for ‘60.

[76eldo]

David,

My 60 Seville is an original paint car, although not good enough to leave it like that.

I don't think my skirts had any rubber on them when I removed them from the car.

Brian

[David Greenburg]

Brian:

Thanks. Mine did not have any either, but I always assumed it was supposed to have it because ‘59’s do, and because catalogs list a seal covering ‘60 (and ‘61).  Although  just because they sell it doesn’t mean it’s needed.   

[Roger Zimmermann]

Usually, the parts book is a good indicator. In the group 8.177, I see that 59 and 60 models have a seal for the fender skirt, part # 1473560, 2 required per car. More recent cars are not listed; it means that they don't have a seal.

[76eldo]

I'll have to take a closer look for any evidence of a seal.  Either glue residue or possibly staple holes.  My 60 convert does not have any seals and the paint is not chipped and there is no evidence of a sloppy fit.  In fact unless the rubber is very thin I don't even know if it would fit.

Brian

[David Greenburg]

I did manage to fit seals on my ‘60, but it took a lot of readjusting of the brackets, and it usually takes several tries each time I remove the skirts to get them positioned just right. I’m going to start a new thread on this so we can hear from more ‘60 owners.  Another case for an authenticity manual!

[76eldo]

If you are not getting any rattling or paint chipping and you have to fiddle around a lot to get the skirts back on I would just do away with the material.

Brian

[59-in-pieces]

Scott,
Roger is correct, the 60 should have the seals.
They, like the 59, do not need or use mastic.
The design is such that the origami approach of bending and twisting is enough to hold them.
However, they are a pain in the posterior.
The adjustments are key as David says.
As they rotted away or turned hard and broke away, few took the time to replace them and so adjusted the hangers to stop the rattle.
Now come for ward in time and you can get repops, you can't just put them on and hope to close the skirt - it wont work - the distance has been taken up by adjusting the hangers.
Oh, and God for bid there was damage in the quarters that was corrected but to accommodate the skirts, which by that time had no seals and hangers adjusted in.
So now the skirts were aligned to the quarters and if you put the seals on the skirts, they sit outside the quarter pocket and look - not so good.
Been there  done that.
Have fun,
Steve B.

[59-in-pieces]

Scott & David,
More to my last post.
All things being equal and they are not between original seals and repops, there are thin areas of the seals to allow them to make the sharp curves at the corners and to go over the latch bracket - the repops i've seen do not and it requires them to be cut down.
I also didn't mention that the locking "handle/latch" is fitted with a piece of rubber tubing to help it stay in place after locking the skirt in, and also cut down on rattles.
See pics.
Have fun,
Steve B.

[David Greenburg]

Steve:

Very helpful details, like usual.  I knew about the cutouts for the latch, but was not aware of the corners.  My '59 also did have the rubber "tubing" on the latch hook, but I was never clear on whether that was original, or someone had just stuck a piece of hose on there.  Nonetheless, it seemed like a good idea that I carried over to both my '60 and '61.  When I get to my playroom today, I am going to compare that cross-section you show to the repro I have; I'm pretty sure it is noticeably different.