New to the forum - beginning the restoration of a 1968 DeVille Convertible. Planning to do a complete frame off restoration to this "rusted out basket case". The link is to a brief slideshow of the initial disassembly - a long way to go, and I look forward to information and suggestions from this forum during the project.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5sbKbdZ8-k
Don
Keep the pictures coming.
Jeff
Hey, thanks for saving this old caddy.
I have a 68 DeVill Conv - but in better shope. Luckily. I would not be able to perform a restoration such as this!
Good luck and strong nerves! :-)
Keep us updated
Regards,
Nicloas
Good to see that you have the room to be able to spread things out.
Can't beat good photos.
Bruce. >:D
Obviously there is a lot of body wok to be done, but the silver lining is that the car was driveable when I got it (drove it two hours to get it to my place), the drivetrain is in decent shape and about 90% of the electrical items are functioning! Did I mention there is a lot of body work to be done?
The link below is to an updated slideshow showing the progress to date. Since the previous post we have removed the front fenders and the interior panels. Fortunately we have not run into any new surprises - just the struggle of removing 46 year old rusted fasteners. In looking at the original paint color on the underside of the trunk lid (Ivanhoe Green per the paint code) a good friend of mine suggested an aqua color. I see that Caribe Aqua is a color offered in '68, and for now have decided that the aqua with a white roof is the vision of where we're heading with this project - thus the photo I found as the opening slide in the photos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-k6---Su3w
Nice, very original. Does not look like someone ever removed the door or back panels!
Very nice, not like mine where some dude was making a mess inside.
You can get some inspiration from my thread here: http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=130360.msg270514 (http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=130360.msg270514)
Regards,
Nicolas
Nicolas,
In your experience, is there an easy way to get access to the screw in the door panel that is hidden under the front of the pull strap - I struggled with this - there must be a relatively easy way.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_0425edit_zps94983b75.jpg&hash=65ed0598b3732a107dfce8fa014b32ffb5e9a9b0) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_0425edit_zps94983b75.jpg.html)
Don Bickel
Never mind - I see it now that I've done the driver's side - so obvious I'm embarrassed! I must have been tired when I did the passenger side - also the passenger side had the screw missing from the rear of the strap, both were there on the driver side.
Hi, sorry I just saw your post.
Ah yeah, there are two large screws in an angle at the bottom part. You will have to remove these to be able to remove the door panel.
Looks like your door panels suffered the same as mine - old weatherstrips. Then the water gets in and the pressed wood will wobble. As can be seen at the bottom where the carpet is wavy.
However, it can be fixed "quite" easily.
I will update my thread http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=130360.msg270514 (http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=130360.msg270514) soon with all the details. You might want to check it out. Or just ask then I can explain in more detail. Have a ton of pictures - if you need something.
Regarding the fitment of you door panel on top: How big was the gab between chrome molding on top of the door panel to the glass?
Did the chrome strip perfectly line up with the strip from the panel of the backseat?
I am having problems getting the panel to fit. Sometimes in the past the panel must have been gotten out of shape - so be very careful when you store these panels that they do not get warpage!!!
Best regards,
Nicolas
P.S: There are also screws behind the courtesy lamp that I did not find first. Make sure that you remove them before trying to lift of the panel :-)
Quote from: DeVille68 on June 27, 2014, 04:24:39 PM
Regarding the fitment of you door panel on top: How big was the gab between chrome molding on top of the door panel to the glass?
Did the chrome strip perfectly line up with the strip from the panel of the backseat?
I didn't really pay attention to the fit, but here are some photos that best show it. http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/library/68%20Cadillac%20Panels
Quote from: DeVille68 on June 27, 2014, 04:24:39 PM
P.S: There are also screws behind the courtesy lamp that I did not find first. Make sure that you remove them before trying to lift of the panel :-)
How do you access these? Someone had previously cut and spliced the wires, so I just disconnected the splice.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2520Panels%2FIMG_0508edit_zps8bc859b7.jpg&hash=82b6db3c18d4ef829d2ce67b7ec1d5bb42bb45a7) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac%20Panels/IMG_0508edit_zps8bc859b7.jpg.html)
Don
ah, ok. So your good to go then. One side was like that with my car. Apparently you should be able to disconnect the cable at the socket, but it will be quite hard to do, hence they spliced it. That is fine. There is this screw sticking out at the bottom of the lamp through this rusty bracket. It should go into a threaded hole on a piece of metal that is welded to the metal of the side structure. See the picture below - the red circle. The yellow circles indicate other mounting points of the back panel.
You can access these screws by first removing the lens and then remove the two little screws securing the bezel. This way you could actually disconnect the wires better as from the top through the opening of the windows switch assembly. Once you removed the bezel the larger screw is accessible. However I found that this screw is not essential for the structural integrity of the panel or its correct alignment. So you might leave it out like I did now, since I have the remove the panel once again anyways.
It also seems to me that the guy that previously disassembled the panel "plucked" on it like crazy, and cracked the panel. As you can easily see in you picture.
My panel looked almost the same, had to repair it too with some fiberglass and epoxy.
Best regards,
Nicolas
Thought I would post an update - I am one month into the project with a goal of completing the restoration in 12 months. At this point I am on track with the disassembly - hood, fenders and trunk lid are off, seats and carpet are removed, interior panels are removed, front bumper, inner fenders and the radiator and its surroundings are removed. Next steps planned are removing the dash, components and glass out of the doors/interior, and pulling the engine and transmission. WD-40 and a breaker bar are my new best friends!
A short slideshow with photos can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxFd1NGzIcg
I forgot to add some music to the slideshow - will add that next time.
Don
Hi Don,
Thanks for the update! :-)
You some sort of an oil leak?
What happed?!
How do you keep track of all the screws and parts and stuff?
Do you label all your parts?
You said you want to remove the dash. I would be highly interested to know how to remove the dash since I still need to remove the wood veneer panel on the dash.
Would be great if you could point out to me how to remove the wood veneer without damage?
Thanks a lot.
Keep us updated :)
Best regards,
Nicolas
Quote from: DeVille68 on July 13, 2014, 05:44:12 AM
You some sort of an oil leak?
What happed?!
The spill is coolant from draining the radiator - I didn't use a funnel and while draining the coolant hit the frame and ran everywhere.
Quote from: DeVille68 on July 13, 2014, 05:44:12 AM
How do you keep track of all the screws and parts and stuff?
Do you label all your parts?
For fasteners and small parts I have been putting them in Ziploc plastic bags and labeling the bag. I use clear plastic storage bins with labels for mid size parts and just set large parts to the side. I label the wiring and hoses using mailing labels and take a lot of pictures to be able to recall where everything is before disassembly.
Quote from: DeVille68 on July 13, 2014, 05:44:12 AM
You said you want to remove the dash. I would be highly interested to know how to remove the dash since I still need to remove the wood veneer panel on the dash.
Would be great if you could point out to me how to remove the wood veneer without damage?
I will let you know what I learn over the next week or two.
Don
The dash (and in the process the steering column) is off - what a job! I'm amazed how many wires, vacuum hoses and fasteners were used to put the dash assembly together - it's got to be the most complicated part of the car. I am sure putting it back together will take 3-4 times as long at a minimum.
Nicolas,
I put some pictures here: http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/library/68%20Cadillac%20Dash
Some of the pictures are duplicates - I'm not sure whether with or without flash shows things the best. In looking at it, I don't see anything that makes removing the wood veneer easier with the dash off - looks like it would be the same to remove the veneer without removing the dash as it is with it off - but maybe you see something in the photos that is different - or maybe someone else who has done it before knows. I don't see any fasteners related to the veneer or any back-side access.
The match books and lens from eyeglasses were recovered from the windshield defrost vents when I took them off - apparently a previous owner was a smoker (from a while ago looking at the vintage of the match books).
Don
Hi Don,
Good job! 8)
You are making progress fast.
Thanks a lot for the pictures. Totally new insights for me. I kind of feared that there are no screws or clips or something. So the veneer is glued on to the metal casting? How could I possibly remove my original peace without destroying it?!
Does anyone know how?
Any experience?
Maybe try to gently heat the glue from the back side and try to peal the veneer off?
That may be only possible if the veneer is itself glued on to a backing.
Or will the wood just separate from its backing?
Will need to investigate further...
You did know that you had a whole in the floor?
Or was that a little surprise?
What is up next?
Best regards,
Nicolas
Quote from: DeVille68 on July 23, 2014, 02:11:13 PM
You did know that you had a whole in the floor?
Or was that a little surprise?
What is up next?
Best regards,
Nicolas
I knew there was a hole in the driver's side front floor, but didn't know it was as bad as it turned out to be. Looks like I have to replace both front floor pans and the driver's side rear - At this stage I my elect to do all (4) to put them at the same condition.
This week I'm taking the windows and window motors out of the doors and rear seat area. Next I'll pull the engine and transmission. Getting near the end of disassembly - then the repair and restoration really begins.
Hi Don,
Quick tip for removing the window:
The manual says that you should remove the read guide and then loosen the two screws for the forward guide, which will then drop into the slot to allow the windows to slip out.
In my case it did not work. Was impossible to slide the roller out of the cam quide.
Much more easy and less stressful for you and the window is to remove the four screws securing the regulator to the door frame. Have someone grab the window and hold it in position (about half up). Then you can remove the four screws and when you undo the last screw you can hold the regulator with your other hand. Then you can just use both hands to slightly move the regulator backwards easily sliding the roller out of the cam. The person helping you can then carefully lift the window out. If you want you can even fix the regulator again with the four screws or slide the whole assembly out.
Install is the same deal. Have one holding the window, then you can just slide the cam of the regulator to the roller of the window. Then mount the regulator to the door frame while the person is just stabilizing the window and following your motions to screw the regulator to the door. After that, install the rear guide and your done.
Hope this helps.
Progress was slow this past month. My wife's mother's health took a turn for the worse and she passed away in mid-August, losing her battle with cancer. At least her pain has ended.
I completed removal of the windows, window mechanisms, door handles and locks from the doors and the rear seat panels. I had to wire a circuit in my shop for the air compressor, which allowed me to use an air chisel to finally get the last mounting bolt out and remove the rear bumper.
Update photos are here: http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/library/68%20Cadillac%20Glass%20n%20Bumper
Next is driveshaft removal, then removal of the engine and transmission. After that I plan to remove the gas tank, followed by removing the body from the frame.
Engine and transmission are out!
Photos here: http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/library/68%20Cadillac%20Engine
Hi Don
I just learned that the dash panel wood veneer is glued on.
So there is no way to remove it without harm.
OPGI sells a reproduction wood veneer, however it is the wrong type of wood.
I am currently in contact with REM to see if they can manufacture a correct rosewood veneer for the 68 dashboard.
Thanks a again.
Nicolas
I actually make these veneers out of rosewood, die cut and finished. I've been making them for years now and have been selling them on eBay : http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-Cadillac-Deville-Eldorado-Fleetwood-Wood-Veneer-Dash-Control-Surround-Trim-/221520956932?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
Hi John
Yes, I saw that listing just a few days ago. However, it was not clear to me if the wood is already coated or not. I need an uncoated one, since I do the rest of my wood at the same time. I want that all the panels look the same.
Telling from the picture of the ebay listing it seems that there is a wrinkle around the AC cutout. Is it just the light?
Another concern of mine is: Could you ship this item overseas such that it will not get damaged? The wood is quite fragile though.
Best regards,
Nicolas
I'd have to check to see if I had anymore raw rosewood veneer. Normally I prep a large section of veneer with the backing, stain, urethane etc and then cut them out, which greatly reduces the chances of the wood splitting since rosewood is a fragile veneer. Shipping it overseas is no problem as I have shipped many overseas without any ever damaged. That wrinkle may have been the light when I took the picture cause all the veneers are flat. That is also another issue with raw rosewood veneer. Most of the time it's not very flat and requires quite a bit of work to smooth it out. Which is another reason I don't cut them raw.
Hi John,
Ok, yes that would be great. Let me know if you still have some. Send me some good pictures and I will definitely order one from you.
For the guys here that just want some rosewood or are not concerned about authenticity: REM (www.remautoinc.com) sells good looking rosewood vinyl veneers.
They can cut it to any shape that you might desire.
After looking at your video on youtube I don't know if I want to start on my 68 convertible. I have two, apart with titles, & one coupe for parts. Plus many more very nice parts. Somehow, after doing several frame-off restorations, I am thinking I probably will do no more.
Good luck, the 68 convertible is one of the prettiest Cadillacs of the 60's era.
Larry
Convertible Top removed. New floor pans and trunk floor have arrived and need to be fit up and welded in place.
http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/library/68%20Cadillac%20Top
Very nice!
From which vendor did you order the sheet metal?
I ordered the sheet metal from OPGI.com. It appears that they are made by Classic 2 Current Fabrication - looks like I could have saved a few dollars if I ordered direct from Classic 2 Current Fabrication - live and learn.
Does anyone know a source for a patch panel or alternatively a replacement quarter panel for the 1968 Deville Convertible? Would the quarter panel from the 2 door hardtop be the same? The hardtops seem more available in salvage yards than the convertible.
Reached a project milestone today - lifted the body off the frame.
http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/library/68%20Cadillac%20Body%20Off
Here is a short video (edited for time) showing the body removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5b5Ub4dczVo
Thanks for sharing the body separation video. Great team work!
Hi Don,
On the off-chance that you did not see this New York Times special "Their Favorite Things" -- James Gandolfino's (of Soprano's fame) shared a passion with you!
http://www.nytimes.com/news/the-lives-they-lived/2013/12/21/james-gandolfini/
That's an awfully exciting video, and inspiring. Good job!
Any idea how much that body shell weighs on its own? The chain hoist didn't seem to have any trouble with it.
-mB
I don't know what the body alone weighs, but we guessed it was maybe 750 to 1,000 pounds at the most. The trolley and chain hoist are rated for 2 tons, so the body was nowhere near the lifting limit. We anchored the lifting chains at the seat belt anchors, had the tie down straps in case we needed to control the body pitching forward or back, but it turns out we didn't really need the straps.
The dumb luck is the fact that I parked the car under the beam in June without thinking that we would use a hoist for lifting the body in November - and it was almost the perfect location for a balanced lift! Sometimes it's better to be lucky than smart...
Made quite a bit of progress in the last two weeks. After getting the body off the frame, the rusted floors were cutout and replacement floor pans welded in place for both the front and rear floor pans. Picture slideshow here: http://youtu.be/zW7g4Q05X5I
The frame and suspension components are all disassembled and ready for sandblast and powder coat.
When we took out the windshield we found that the windshield frame was rusted. Fortunately, we found a '67 convertible in a local salvage yard which had a good windshield frame. The key in this frame replacement was designing and fabricating a jig to locate the frame when welding it in so the roof and doors close and seal properly. Picture slideshow here: http://youtu.be/liM3ivkwDTw
We also completed the disassembly of the engine, ready for the machine shop for inspection and then rebuild. Picture slideshow here: http://youtu.be/6QkWfFbflw8
It has been a productive month, even with the time demands of the holidays. We replaced both rear quarter panels, which was a major undertaking. A lot of time and effort to cut, grind and fit everything in place so the finished work will be exceptionally straight. As we dug into the existing panels, in addition to the rust and areas with large amounts of body filler, we discovered the passenger side quarter had previously been replaced - the car had evidently been in an accident at some time in it's past. Fortunately, the frame is unscathed. A slideshow video of the quarter panel replacement is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXTsnNQAVi0
Next up is repairing the body work on the doors - they were really messed up with some previous body work - again, an awful lot of body filler. The engine is at the machine shop, the six way power bench seat controls were cleaned up and checked out - everything works perfectly.
Don
What great way to show up your masterful job. Almost feel like I was in your shop. Thanks for sharing this! Looking forward to how you deal with the doors.
We completed the replacement of the door skins on both sides of the car - short video slideshow here: http://youtu.be/25rOUqFMhOE
Now on to the front fenders - which should be the last component of the metal/rust repair! Both fenders are rusted away behind the wheel well, including the inner support braces being rusted away, so we'll have to re-create those as well as putting in the purchased patch panel for the outer skin.
Rebuilt the QuadraJet carburetor so it is ready to go.
Don
Nice work!
nice! 8)
Looks like a lot of work!
I have two 68 convertibles & a very nice coupe for parts. I was going to do a frame-off on one of the convertibles, but after completing a frame-off of a 67 Eldorado (shown at Lancaster, PA GN), two frame-on restorations of 56 coupes, a frame-off of a 56 series 62 convertible, and a frame-off of a 47 Plymouth P-15, a body-on of my 91 Fleetwood Brougham, I think I should quit. Good luck on your project. Larry
It's been a lot of body work over the last couple months, but things are starting to come together now. The frame and suspension are at powder coat and should be done next week. Once we put the suspension on we will mount the body for final fit and prep for paint. The engine came back from the machine shop and the major engine assembly is done. Attached are before and after photos of the engine.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F472%2520Before_zpsp76qmzet.jpg&hash=5ece41d190ff4f6e6e345a99a350ca966925c735) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/472%20Before_zpsp76qmzet.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F472%2520After_zpsat42lezk.jpg&hash=418a4957b218e767748becdac364989236daaf0f) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/472%20After_zpsat42lezk.jpg.html)
Don
nice!
Quite a difference!
What ignition system will you run? Original or HEI?
Hi Nicolas,
I am planning to just run the original ignition system.
This week I got the frame and most of the suspension parts back from sandblast and powder coat. Started to mount the front suspension to the frame - still need to finish sandblasting, painting control arms and replace the ball joints in the next week. Also painted the firewall and started undercoating the body.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2FIMG_0763_zpssqozpim3.jpg&hash=1c7325ba5d76349cf41bee8218181d6ab9391e36) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/IMG_0763_zpssqozpim3.jpg.html)
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(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2FIMG_0758_zpsjdwjlhfu.jpg&hash=09f70575a61acdafb229b1b37ef2da2487a351d2) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/IMG_0758_zpsjdwjlhfu.jpg.html)
nice!
Have you measured the frame?
Best regards,
Nicoals
Yes, I have measured the frame - it is in great shape (unlike most of the body), square and level!
Finished rebuilding the front and rear suspension control arms with new ball joints and bushings. Mounted the suspension and steering to get to a rolling chassis. Re-installed the fuel lines.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2FIMG_0803_zpscb0ubvke.jpg&hash=9d7d4cdf6062f697e098fb8bbcca1e01e56929c2) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/IMG_0803_zpscb0ubvke.jpg.html)
Then dropped in the engine, transmission and driveshaft. Now it is starting to look like something again!
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2FIMG_0809_zpsedzmzcgr.jpg&hash=ea2d9e8f9707f6ac489b397f5f6a09fdc9377a34) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/IMG_0809_zpsedzmzcgr.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2FIMG_0808_zpsvcuaaoiq.jpg&hash=bfa73077439c59d9abf0d0dd945d43bdc46f487f) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/IMG_0808_zpsvcuaaoiq.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2FIMG_0812_zpssuaudhxc.jpg&hash=3f162ac27efe6b6eeac346c6532f3966850d38e9) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/IMG_0812_zpssuaudhxc.jpg.html)
Great job. The hidden skeleton of a Cadillac is often more impressive than the outside.
Ralph
Hello Don,
Your work looks terrific. I viewed your slide shows on the rear quarter and door skin repair, and I am looking forward to your slide show on the fenders. In one of the photos in your most recent post I noticed you have a Miller welder. Which model is it? What wire size and settings did you use for the panel replacements? Keep up the good work.
Christopher Winter
Beautiful work. I see You are from Peru Illinois. My Father graduated from LaSalle Peru Township high School in 1936. My Grandfather John Young was the head of the Lehigh Portland Cement Co. Plant in Peru. As a matter of fact Grandad's name is on the School's brass plack as head of the School Board when it was built in I think 1928.
My son is a senior this year at La Salle Peru Township High School. I'll have to look for your grandfather's name on the brass plaque.
Quote from: savemy67 on July 04, 2015, 11:02:56 AM
In one of the photos in your most recent post I noticed you have a Miller welder. Which model is it? What wire size and settings did you use for the panel replacements?
I'll check that information and let you know.
Quote from: savemy67 on July 04, 2015, 11:02:56 AM
In one of the photos in your most recent post I noticed you have a Miller welder. Which model is it? What wire size and settings did you use for the panel replacements?
Christopher,
Here is a photo with the model & settings, using 0.023" wire.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2FIMG_20271_zpsfghpoypd.jpg&hash=d400d3d62f43398120cddfac9f70ef7c09014f30) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/IMG_20271_zpsfghpoypd.jpg.html)
Don,
Thanks for the info. I have a Hobart Handler 140 (Hobart is made by Miller). Did you experiment with wire size and settings or did you know at the start that 023 wire and relatively hot and fast machine settings would work? Any issues with heat distortion? I have to do some welding on both my front fenders so I appreciate finding information from '67 and '68 owners. Thanks.
Christopher Winter
Hi Don!
Very nice work!
Could you send me a link to your album? So I can download you pictures of the frame for my reference.
Best regards,
Nicolas
Hi Nicolas,
http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/library/68%20Cadillac%20Frame
Regards,
Don
Quote from: savemy67 on July 10, 2015, 04:08:10 PM
Did you experiment with wire size and settings or did you know at the start that 023 wire and relatively hot and fast machine settings would work? Any issues with heat distortion?
Christopher,
Sorry it took a while to answer your questions, but I am not a welder so I had to ask my partners who did the welding. They knew from prior experience that the settings would be close, but did experiment with 0.030" wire before settling on 0.023". No problems with heat distortion as the welding procedure was really a bunch of tack welds spaced apart to avoid distortion, then repeated until the parts were completely welded.
Don
We rigged the engine to test it as a rolling chassis to address any problems while access is easy - before putting the body back on. I had replaced the distributor (the old one was stuck in the block and broke in the process of removing it) and we spent a day troubleshooting what ended up being a condenser problem. With that resolved the engine started right up. The video of the first start after the engine and carb were rebuilt is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7FuYhfIdjw
The plan is to put the body back on the frame, do a final panel fit up and any additional body work to have everything straight and ready for paint.
Don
Congratulations Don! Getting the engine running the first time is a big step. I bet it feels good.
-mB
Sounds terrific
Now that the engine checked out, it is time to put the body back on the frame and get everything aligned before painting. One of the biggest parts struggles I have had is finding a source for the body mount bushings. I ended up using some parts from a kit I purchased (from which most of the parts weren't used) and some modified mounts from Energy Suspension. I had the sleeves from the top bushings turned down from 1.250 inches outside diameter to 1.180 inches to fit the frame holes and these worked well in 12 of the 14 locations.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_0008_zpszbrtjhbx.jpg&hash=2f9473334fd36366fcf844704665bab66eaa5a0b) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_0008_zpszbrtjhbx.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_0014_zps8k9enixb.jpg&hash=6fbc8ff0a7a9b9f29b84ebf779d23d19fafcdc2f) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_0014_zps8k9enixb.jpg.html)
Next was completing the undercoating of the body - the Rubberized coating from SEM went on beautifully!
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_0045%25202_zpsxzekween.jpg&hash=996ab55a53c8234370622736beb855d896b5afbb) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_0045%202_zpsxzekween.jpg.html)
The body was then put back on the frame, body mounts bolted in place and the reinforcing braces were removed from the body. Today we finished installing and aligning the doors and trunk lid - even check fit the fender skirts - it's starting to look like a car again!
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_0125%25202_zps6ebqvtgv.jpg&hash=c20bbead4e70aa85b25e67142e7aa06885a7f561) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_0125%202_zps6ebqvtgv.jpg.html)
Don
Quote from: John Abend on September 14, 2014, 03:03:31 PM
I actually make these veneers out of rosewood, die cut and finished. I've been making them for years now and have been selling them on eBay : http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-Cadillac-Deville-Eldorado-Fleetwood-Wood-Veneer-Dash-Control-Surround-Trim-/221520956932?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
Any chance you can make some with the metal finish like on the 67's?
Looking awesome! I have a ton of work to do on my 68 as well. I love seeing the progress.
Finished the fit up of the body panels today - had to mount the front bumper all the way up and back to get the correct gap between the doors and fenders, but it looks good. Hood fit great!
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_0169_zpsn8gurw1f.jpg&hash=b36848541d90f21da6e568642caa43e1ea3b031b) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_0169_zpsn8gurw1f.jpg.html)
Don
very good! Congratulations.
P.S: Thanks for the pictures of the frame!
Great work! Looking forward to seeing it finished. Larry
That's great that you guys are bringing this old lady back to life .... great work so far!
I have owned several 1968 DeVille Convertibles. You will be rewarded with a Car that has a superior ride and presence.
For the past month we have been busy insulating a building where we recently started a custom car business, so we haven't moved the '68 any closer to paint, but hope to this month (November). I put together a modular homemade paint booth (14 ft x 24 ft) so we are ready when the car is ready.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_28441_zpskwp14pxv.jpg&hash=2ad4cc96e089002be32056c9390b7b8e732799da) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_28441_zpskwp14pxv.jpg.html)
I'll move some additional lights in when we paint.
Even though the bodywork hasn't progressed, I did get the custom interior this month.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_27721_zpsukyyi6zw.jpg&hash=83d302507d8f2c324502ea47bee5430d528bddc0) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_27721_zpsukyyi6zw.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_27761_zpsb6hcsl8h.jpg&hash=b86f4fb0c4644d733a8a4bff0304fc41909bd62b) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_27761_zpsb6hcsl8h.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_27781_zpsnf0tgcha.jpg&hash=909d9714ebb4bd7ba10c99074ec57fbfb98d63a6) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_27781_zpsnf0tgcha.jpg.html)
And this week I changed the color of the dashpad from black to blue.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_28501_zpsarfj5zyp.jpg&hash=eea20021e13c56997adfc250229a9130e84fb8cc) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_28501_zpsarfj5zyp.jpg.html)
I also picked up a '68 Coupe deVille for parts that I still need - wish I had found this one a year ago!
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_27691_zpsfcheplhu.jpg&hash=c12eca4d89972cb1f1e5e4b2db0e78975a89ae72) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_27691_zpsfcheplhu.jpg.html)
The next update should be the car after paint!
poor little Coupe! ;D
Keep us updated. Regards,
Nicolas
Did you replace the body mounts & if so where did you find thism? If I missed this in your story please forgive. Thanks, Larry
BTW, the car looks great, wish mine were this far along.
Larry,
Here is the post re: body mounts. Let me know if you want more details.
Don
Quote from: dwbic on August 25, 2015, 03:46:30 AM
Now that the engine checked out, it is time to put the body back on the frame and get everything aligned before painting. One of the biggest parts struggles I have had is finding a source for the body mount bushings. I ended up using some parts from a kit I purchased (from which most of the parts weren't used) and some modified mounts from Energy Suspension. I had the sleeves from the top bushings turned down from 1.250 inches outside diameter to 1.180 inches to fit the frame holes and these worked well in 12 of the 14 locations.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_0008_zpszbrtjhbx.jpg&hash=2f9473334fd36366fcf844704665bab66eaa5a0b) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_0008_zpszbrtjhbx.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F68%2520Cadillac%2FIMG_0014_zps8k9enixb.jpg&hash=6fbc8ff0a7a9b9f29b84ebf779d23d19fafcdc2f) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/68%20Cadillac/IMG_0014_zps8k9enixb.jpg.html)
Don
Thanks Don.
I don't have the body off just yet but what I can see I am hoping my rubber pieces will be reusable. All the bolts came right out with no problems.
Hope I won't have to replace anything.
Larry
It has been a long delay, but we have restarted activity on the car. The cause of the delay was starting a new business restoring and customizing cars - had to work on other cars rather than my own. Most of the activity was spent on a 1938 Pontiac.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2F1938%2520Pontiac%2520Touring%2520Sedan%2FIMG_0725_zpshguooe1d.jpg&hash=c92768c5169b75538c5344d23a899b51ffb45928) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/1938%20Pontiac%20Touring%20Sedan/IMG_0725_zpshguooe1d.jpg.html)
Last month we shot the DeVille with high build primer.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa595%2Fdwbic%2FIMG_1113_zpsz1oatsud.jpg&hash=7d2a1168c0346c30d8a8b7e03b1aed6614e53ea2) (http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/dwbic/media/IMG_1113_zpsz1oatsud.jpg.html)
Now another pass at block sanding then we will put on another primer coat and prepare for paint!
Don
Well, I finally finished the body work and got the car painted. I think it turned out really well. The color is Caribe Aqua done in a basecoat-clearcoat. After a week of wetsanding and several days buffing, I think it turned out really well.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2Fqif3Efem.jpg&hash=3ce48199309a1e2c64225fd07bb1b6dcdeae146b) (https://imgur.com/qif3Efe)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FjZVHeckm.jpg&hash=df983950e77f3bb2f8d8268b1a13818e71182f45) (https://imgur.com/jZVHeck)
Now I plan to put the car back together without too many delays - let's hope so!
I started with the re-chromed rear bumper.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FSuCJOcjm.jpg&hash=42798ea08400e4124889513547d074509a7097df) (https://imgur.com/SuCJOcj)
Don
nice! :)
Very nice!! :D
Got the hood, front fenders and front bumper installed and aligned.
(https://i.imgur.com/AYpBIJcm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bQJWgpsm.jpg)
Don
Quote from: dwbic on April 24, 2018, 09:11:43 AM
Got the hood, front fenders and front bumper installed and aligned.
Don
Hi Don, would you mind taking a picture where the fender meets the door and the hood meets that cowel? The guy that did mine put more shims in it than a door in a late 70s split level house that went through an earthquake. I'm interested in the gap to see how far out of wack mine is. :)
thx!
Charles
Charles,
Here are a couple pictures of the gaps and shims.
Driver Side - 1 Shim
(https://i.imgur.com/CMfTj1Lm.jpg)
Driver Side Gaps
(https://i.imgur.com/lnzXJJ7m.jpg)
Driver Side Match up of Body Line
(https://i.imgur.com/5TAVfNIm.jpg)
Driver Side Gap
(https://i.imgur.com/Ru6k2wMm.jpg)
Passenger Side - 2 Shims
(https://i.imgur.com/MOGFZaFm.jpg)
Passenger Side Gaps
(https://i.imgur.com/WYJzyF5m.jpg)
Passenger Side Match up of Body Line
(https://i.imgur.com/5TAVfNIm.jpg)
Passenger Side Gap
(https://i.imgur.com/gdxrAtim.jpg)
Let me know if you want more details.
Don
nice work. 8)
Mine has good gaps on top but the driver side door carves a bit too much to the inside on the lower rear corner.
I think mine has 3-5 shims on each side.
Best regards,
Nicolas
Windshield was installed a couple weeks ago. Started convertible top installation - rear window (curtain) is in place.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FwmdhwDJm.jpg&hash=79a967e6aaf99457b05da776fab2cff927037e7c) (https://imgur.com/wmdhwDJ)
Don
Anyone know how this seal installs? I don't recall how it came off, and none of the clips seem to line up with anything - what am I missing?
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2F9DjDdp6m.jpg&hash=738fa9160a0869fa08262c4f7070b409f4f9331a) (https://imgur.com/9DjDdp6)
Don
Hi Don,
A few years ago I installed Steele Rubber: 70-1578-64
It looks similar but not identical to the one you have bought from OPGI. But I guess it should be close enough.
There are two tabs on each side, as you can see. There should be holes to screw the end pieces down.
I don't remember if you have to lift the weatherstrip of the door window glass in order to slip the front bow weatherstrip underneath it.
Along the bow there should also be holes. If your top is working you could test fit it with tape and check that the seal is more towards the front of the chrome windshield piece.
I will look for pictures if you continue to have difficulties.
Best regards,
Nicolas
An update after a long period of frustration, but beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
I was unable to get the convertible top installed and looking good after months of trial and error. I finally had to give up and have arranged for an experienced professional installer to do the job in June of this year.
I had the engine running decent and then one day it would not start - the culprit was eventually found to be a faulty distributor. As a result I decided to upgrade to an HEI ignition. Installed an MSD system and the engine now starts and runs reliably.
Part of the wiring harness was melted and after spending too much time troubleshooting I decided to rewire the vehicle with a new harness. That is now complete and things are working well.
I put the car together without a roof so I can at least drive it with the top down for the time being. I also just received my new tires - I think they look great. Here are a few pictures as it sits today.
(https://i.imgur.com/FHd4fGUm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TAqmK3Km.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xMB6LXjm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RNH3CFEm.jpg)
Don
Looks great! :)
Indeed!
The car looks great Don. I've enjoyed following your blog over these last couple of years. It's nice to see how the car is finally coming together.
Thanks Bentley.
Completed the exhaust this week and did a little needed tuning on the carburetor. The weather was nice, so I was able to take my wife out for a ride. The car is really quiet and the ride is excellent - rides like a Cadillac!
Here is the best photo of the car taken so far. Lots of little details yet to do, but at least it's driveable.
(https://i.imgur.com/HgAZvLRh.jpg)
Don
Hello Don,
Really looks nice! How about another 3/4 photo, but outside in the sun?
Christopher Winter
BOLD AND DROP DEAD BEAUTIFUL--- congratulations on your color choices-- Bellissimo James
Quote from: savemy67 on April 20, 2019, 09:48:38 AM
Hello Don,
Really looks nice! How about another 3/4 photo, but outside in the sun?
Christopher Winter
Here are a couple shots out in the sun.
(https://i.imgur.com/PsF6SdTm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SaizvQem.jpg)
Don
dwbic Try getting the door handle bolts on a 66 deville. >:D