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General Discussion / Re: craigs list - be aware
« Last post by D.Smith on Today at 07:57:33 PM »
Conversions were being made by Coachbuilders the day after production stopped.     So many 77 and 78s were made into real convertibles.    But they will have Coupe VIN and body tag numbers.    I've got these photos of them in my archives.
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General Discussion / Re: craigs list - be aware
« Last post by Dave Shepherd on Today at 07:36:42 PM »
Right, there is no factory 78 Vert, all done in the aftermarket.
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Technical / Authenticity / Re: How to disconnect the Autronic Eye
« Last post by J. Gomez on Today at 07:31:00 PM »
I have the same issue with a 53. can anyone tell how to bypass the damn thing so I can use my brights? thanks, Dave

Dave,

I do not have one for the 1953 model  :( I do have the 1954.

So if both are the same you could try removing the shielded wire going to the photo tube (dash unit) from the amplifier (red cross), the connectors would be inside the cabin (again be very careful with these connection in your case the voltage would be around 600V AC, make sure to insulate them).

This would stop the photo tube operation for the amplifier to switch the headlights. However if the amplifier is malfunction you may need to do more surgery to disable it.

Good luck..!
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Technical / Authenticity / Re: How to disconnect the Autronic Eye
« Last post by CadillacCheri on Today at 07:25:30 PM »
Thanks everyone.  I will definitely get a shop manual.   ;)
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Saying they go on and off rapidly, I believe that you have an electrical fault in the light wiring system, and what is happening is the internal circuit breaker within the headlight switch is operating correctly.

What this does is instead of blowing a fuse, leaving you with no lights at all, it cycles the circuit breaker, turning the lights off, and back on, so that you don't lose total illumination on a dark road, allowing you to pull up safely.

Bruce. >:D
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Technical / Authenticity / Re: How to disconnect the Autronic Eye
« Last post by J. Gomez on Today at 07:06:20 PM »
Cheri,

Hmm ok you mention they go “on” and “off” rapidly ??? so they do not switch from low beams to high beams and back?

If they just go “off” you may have something connected wrong in the system wiring.
The Autronic-eye option the foot switch change the setup from the standard setup by switching “ground” for the power relay versus the +12V for the standard setup.

The key item to get would be the Shop Manual as Christopher stated about, section 12 would be the electrical section and page 12-35 would cover the Autronic-eye while page 12-46 has the wiring diagram + the Autronic-eye diagram (although you may need a microscope to view it  :D), just in case attaching a better one for normal view.

If you decide in disconnecting the photo-tube (which is the one on the dash) be extremely careful voltage from the amplifier to the photo-tube range in the 800V DC via the shielded wire.  :o

To totally removed the Autronic-eye option and go back to the standard format would require some wiring modifications.  :(

Good luck..!
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Technical / Authenticity / 1976 Fleetwood Illuminated Entry
« Last post by bcroe on Today at 06:58:15 PM »
Quote from: jagbuxx #12944
   Illuminated entry module is different
after 1976. 75/76 used the same module located behind left front kick
panel (that holds hood release).  They are notorious for failure due to
moisture contamination.  I have collected about a dozen of them thru
the years and pretty soon will replace the one in my '76. 
So I hope to have a couple of good ones. 

If you have that many, you ought to be able to fix a few of them. 
Bruce Roe
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Technical / Authenticity / Re: How to disconnect the Autronic Eye
« Last post by 76eldo on Today at 06:43:48 PM »
If it's like he 59 and 60'models the unit is in the drivers side kick panel.
It plugs into the foot dimmer switch.
You should be able to unplug it redirect the wire to the dimmer.

Shop manuals are a must for working on these cars.
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Technical / Authenticity / Re: How to disconnect the Autronic Eye
« Last post by Dave Ventresca on Today at 06:42:50 PM »
I have the same issue with a 53. can anyone tell how to bypass the damn thing so I can use my brights? thanks, Dave
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General Discussion / Re: Halogen headlights in older cars
« Last post by J. Gomez on Today at 06:36:17 PM »
I agree. Lighting specs never *quite* match up. Thanks, marketers!

However, if you can find it, the wattage rating is the one I pay attention to (as far as electrical-system load goes).

I estimate that the original 1967 sealed beams (and I'm generally assuming this to be true up to 1978, when halogens were legalized in the USA), use about 35 to 40 watts each.

Halogens (or at least the ones that interest me) seem to start at about 55 watts and can run to 100W or more. LEDs are all over the place, wattage-wise.

Jumping from 40W to 55W probably isn't catastrophic, but I'd rather preserve what's left of my old system for as long as possible than to fry it all and start over. :-)

You can check most of the light bulb references here -> http://www.donsbulbs.com/

It shows the standard H5001 incandescent/halogen seal beam to be rated at 55W and the H5006 dual beam at 35W/35W.

If you take the H5001 rated at 55W the draw at 12V would be about 4.5A.

Most likely you existing wire gauge would be 16AWG ??? and the length may well be around 8ft-10ft give or take. At that length the voltage drop at the source would be about 0.2V which would increase your draw to 4.6A. The maximum length for the 16AWG with that load of 55W would be about 13ft. Again this is formulation when a new wire is in place, age wire tend to deteriorate depending on several factors so the formulation would change drastically.

Using a relay(s) closes to the load as you are in the process to do  8) , is the best option to safeguard two things the “old wire” and the “headlight switch” and it also off loads the headlight switch.

Good luck..! 
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