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Technical / Authenticity / Re: How to disconnect the Autronic Eye
« Last post by savemy67 on Today at 06:33:04 PM »
Hello Cheri,

Welcome to the forum, and congratulations on acquiring your '57 - a very good looking year.

The Autronic Eye is a feature that, when working correctly, dims the hi-beams when the Eye senses oncoming headlights.  Of course the hi-beams have to be on in order for the Eye to do its job.  Normally, the Eye has no effect when lo-beams are in operation.

You may have one of any number of issues, or a combination of issues since the Eye works with the dimmer (hi/lo beam) switch, the headlight switch, wiring, and headlamps.  I encourage you to get a '57 Cadillac shop manual which will have the wiring diagrams and operational description.  You should be able to disconnect the Eye without crippling the rest of the lighting system - if in fact only the Eye is the issue.  If something else has gone haywire, it really helps to have the manual so you don't make a bad situation worse.  I have a '67, so I can't speak specifically about the '57.

One simple test you can try is to put a dark towel over the sensor lens so that no light enters the sensor.  If the symptoms change, the trouble may be with the sensor.  If covering the sensor lens causes normal operation of the lights to resume, you can use some black vinyl tape to block light from entering the lens.  If the symptoms do not change, the problem may not be corrected merely by disconnecting the Eye.

As for the interior lights flickering, that may be a function of the current flow to the headlamps when they are rapidly cycled on and off.  If I recall correctly, the current goes through the headlamp switch in the dash which also controls the interior lights.  I strongly suggest you get the shop manual and examine the wiring for corroded connections and bad grounds, and do not drive at night until you correct the situation.  Good luck.

Respectfully submitted,
Christopher Winter
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1976 Fleetwood Climate Control
« Last post by cadillactim on Today at 06:25:09 PM »
First you can unplug the ambient sensor on the evaporator case and connect the two wires with a jumper wire. See if system goes to full air. If not, unplug electrical and vacuum connectors at programmer. Remove cover and unplug short vacuum line with yellow stripe going to vacuum motor and plug the vacuum line. Replace cover, reconnect electrical and vacuum connectors. System will be in full a/c mode, high fan.

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 500 efi blues
« Last post by on Today at 05:50:45 PM »
Sorry, that CA model # is 1608339.
Steve 30486
Hi Gang:

This topic came up yesterday.... try this company:

Location - San Diego, CA

That's who I was looking into. Expensive, but the steering wheel is stripped and recast as a new piece.
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 500 efi blues
« Last post by on Today at 05:42:36 PM »
I have the diagnostic manual and have followed the decision trees down to the final option of replacing the ecu. Guess I should have gone the last step.
Mr. Roe , I will gladly pay for all the shipping and any service charge for the use of the test unit . I think the Post Office is open it's only an eclipse.
Would you be willing to test  our unit again to see if  another anomaly would show up? Also, we had a question about the model # 160339 ecu. When looking for a replacement  that model is listed as a  "California" model. This vehicle was delivered new in Ohio. We wondered if that made any difference and if any other model #'s would work just as well. Thanks again to everyone. Haven't thrown a wrench yet,but we have severely tested our frustration tolerance.
Steve #30486
General Discussion / Re: Halogen headlights in older cars
« Last post by Highwayman68 on Today at 05:24:35 PM »
I'm working on the electrical system of my 67 Eldorado right now. My goal is to augment 50-year-old wiring with another (shadow) electrical network that can distribute the greater power required by modern electrical devices (e.g. halogen headlights, higher-power audio, and maybe a few servos to replace things like vacuum-operated headlight doors and trunk openers).

If you plug halogen headlights into the original sealed-beam sockets, they'll probably work fine ... for a while. But halogens (and LED headlights) pull more amps through the wires and switches than their forefathers. That means that you can cook contact points more quickly in your headlight switch, for example.

The solution I'm going with is to add a headlight harness that uses relays to route power from the battery to the (new) headlights. You plug the existing switch into the proper connector in the harness which, in turn, uses the original switch to control the small amount of power running to the relays instead of the large amount of power that would otherwise be running through the switch. When the original switch controls the relays, that switch should last forever because of the reduced load.

The harness I ordered from Amazon for this job is "4-Headlight Relay Wiring Harness H4 Headlamp Light Bulb Ceramic Socket Plugs Set." It was $22. I have yet to install it so I can't tell you if it will fail right away. But for $22, it was cheap enough to save me the labor of getting the parts and assembling it myself. I've attached a picture of it below.

Beyond headlights, I'm also planning on installing a number of other power-consuming electronics in the near future. I could just tap into the fuse box, but it wouldn't be too long before I was either blowing fuses, melting wires, or frying ancient-and-expensive switches. So I'm working on a shadow distribution box that will allow me to go nuts with gadgetry without completely cooking the original Cadillac wiring harness.

And as someone who was finally able to remove the headlight switch from my Eldorado two days ago, I can say, without a doubt, that replacing switches -- or messing around anywhere under the dashboard at all -- is something you do *not* want to do unless it is absolutely necessary.

I added a pic of my first power-distribution prototype below. Moving from right to left, the black thing with the red buttons is a 100-amp circuit breaker. The lead from the battery will connect to the input of the circuit breaker. This will hopefully prevent any huge electrical shorts from destroying the car since this box will be mounted as close to the battery as possible.

Moving to the lower-center of the pic, the shiny cylinder sprouting four terminals is a 200-amp relay. (I'm not planning on pulling 100 or 200 amps, but what the heck.) The top two terminals on the relay will connect to the ACC option on the ignition switch. That means that all accessories that depend on this box for power will be shut off when the ignition key is in the Off position.

The smaller, rectangular block to the left of the big relay is a fuse box. The two purple things attached to the top of that block are 60-amp fuses. This is a typical aftermarket fuse setup used by the mega-car-audio crowd these days. 60-amp fuses are the *smallest* fuses available for this type of fuse box.

At the center-top of the pic is a conventional fuse box. Originally I was going to run one of the outputs from the other fuse box to this one to handle smaller distributions of juice. In my latest iteration of this setup, I had to remove the secondary fuse box because, with a lid on, it took up too much space. If I need it, I'll put it somewhere else.

I am 3D printing the bottom of the enclosure and the lid. The 3D filament I'm using is ApolloX ASA plastic. It should be able to stand up to the under-hood heat and abuse. (I printed a new cover for my windshield washer pump using ApolloX a month ago and it seems to be holding up well.)

I added an aluminum layer to the distribution-box chassis for added strength and as a potential heat sink for the big relay. I don't know how hot that relay will get, but the aluminum plate should be overkill.

That's my very long-winded way of saying that relays are good for controlling halogen headlights on older cars. :-)

I like your setup, it is very clean and should not be too noticeable once it is installed.
Try Ken Perry.... he would have them.....
  Gene Harl    CLC22406
Hi Gang:

This topic came up yesterday.... try this company:

Location - San Diego, CA

I have no knowledge of the quality, but it looks interesting....  Will be doing this someday.

Randy Bergum
Technical / Authenticity / How to disconnect the Autronic Eye
« Last post by CadillacCheri on Today at 04:26:35 PM »
We just bought a '57 Coupe de Ville- our first Caddy, and our first car with this Autronic thing.  The headlights go off and on rapidly and the interior lights flicker as they do that.  I can't get the headlights to stay on, so we haven't been able to drive it much.  We would just rather disconnect the entire thing and use my headlights like a normal system.  Can anyone explain how to do that?  Thanks!
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1976 Fleetwood Illuminated Entry
« Last post by fellenzer on Today at 04:12:32 PM »
Thanks. Do those symptoms sound like the relay? Would a failed relay keep the foot well lights on all the time?
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