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My New Project: 1956 Cadillac Sedan Deville Resurrection Thread

Started by chstitans42, September 27, 2013, 12:10:11 AM

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J. Gomez

Ben,

For the rear speaker check the “dark green” wire at the amplifier (under the dash right-passenger side) it should be connected on top of the transformer via a skinny barrel connector. Also, the speaker grill would need to be grounded to the chassis.

One note DO NO through anything on the trash specially the speaker it can be refurbished if the coil still intact.  ;)

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

chstitans42

Thanks for the heads up! I still have to trouble shoot the wire and make sure it has continuity all the way to the raido. Sure is a long way to go!

stzomah

Just in case you are still working on this....  Here is a pic of the connector mentioned by J. Gomez.  Mine still had the male end barrel stuck in it!  It only sends the "+" to the speaker through the wire.  The "-" needs a jumper wire at the speaker terminal to the chassis.  Make sure you adjust the fader located on the outer ring of the right radio knob.

I recently bought a pair of speakers from a guy that reproduces the original basket speakers.  They allow you to fit the front speaker up with the amplifier board (see my post on the dashboard rebuild).  Most modern speakers have magnets that are too big.  The replacement speakers are pretty ratty sounding but no need for high fidelity using the AM radio.  If you are using this as a daily driver, you can retrofit a modern 6X9 in both places.  You will need to stand off the amplifier board if you want to keep the AM radio functional using the bigger better modern front speaker.  The rear has plenty of magnet room.

LOL:  I put Jensen coaxial speakers in it back in the late seventies!  I had it hooked up to my 8 track player in the glove box!  I also had a Pioneer Supertuner on a slide mount.  I could slide it out and put my CB radio in.  Now there's the 70's for you!  Mag mount CB antenna on the truck lid!  I just took all that stuff out last fall...
1956 Series 62 Coupe
owned since 1975

David King (kz78hy)

David King
CLC 22014  (life)
1958 Eldorado Brougham 615
1959 Eldorado Brougham 56- sold
1960 Eldorado Brougham 83- sold
1998 Deville d'Elegance
1955 Eldorado #277
1964 Studebaker Commander
2012 Volt
CLCMRC benefactor 197

Director and Founder, Eldorado Brougham Chapter
Past President, Motor City Region

Rare Parts brand suspension parts Retailer via Keep'em Running Automotive


J. Gomez

Ben,

The wiper lines from the pump looks to be correct, just in case you can reference this site -> http://www.wiperman.com/washservpage.html

When you press the wiper bottom to operate the pump to spray washer fluid the pump would route vacuum over to the coupler to operate the wiper motor in the low settings. The vacuum would pull the coupler and will hold it closed until you release the push bottom.

If the coupler does not operate when vacuum in apply the rubber membrane inside may be bad, you can make one from any piece of rubber. If you want cheap you could use a bicycle inner tube for the material.  ;)

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

goofyhb

Hello Ben,
all lines are hooked up well. The coordinator looks a bit different on my 55. Have you disassembled the pump in your glass bowl? There is a piston which has two seals. One on  the water side and one on the vacuum side. My piston has a crack. I have not managed to seal it. When I find time I want to find someone 3D print a new one for me. If you hear a vacuum leak at your button on the dash you need to fix the seal in your button.
Axel
1955 Series 62 Sedan http://bit.ly/1Ri914p
1949 Buick 56S
1960 Series 62 Convertible
1960 Fleetwood

chstitans42

Fixed the seal in the coordinator, but now all I get is a little dribble out of one of the squirters. Like there isn't enough pressure...

goofyhb

There is multiple things that can go wrong. First check if the water outlet from the washer jar pumps more water. If not, Fusick is selling a rebuild kit for the pump.
If you get enough pressure from your pump check if you do not loose water where the water line passes through the firewall. In my 55 I have a tube there, which connects the water lines from engine bay and under the dash.

You can check out this info. http://www.cadillac1956.eu/trico.html
But you should know this website anyway...

Axel
1955 Series 62 Sedan http://bit.ly/1Ri914p
1949 Buick 56S
1960 Series 62 Convertible
1960 Fleetwood

J. Gomez

Quote from: chstitans42 on May 17, 2017, 01:57:50 PM
Fixed the seal in the coordinator, but now all I get is a little dribble out of one of the squirters. Like there isn't enough pressure...

Ben,

If the small sprayer tip on the wiper escutcheon is not block and/or the hose for the water line at the transmission inside is also not block there could be a restriction at the escutcheon seal.

There is a small rubber seal at the escutcheon sealing the transition from the water line between the transmission and the escutcheon. Most of the time these get hard and if the transmission and/or escutcheon are removed and not place correctly it could block the water and worst leak inside the cabin.

Also the inside of the escutcheon could get clog with calcium deposit so that is another possibility.

Good luck..!   
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

stzomah

I recently replace the escutcheons on my 56 with some really nice reproductions.  They did not include the O ring seals.  I have not finished putting the washer circuit together yet to try it.  Anyone know of a source for them other than getting an assortment pack of O rings from Advanced Auto Parts?
1956 Series 62 Coupe
owned since 1975

J. Gomez

Quote from: stzomah on May 24, 2017, 08:59:58 AM
I recently replace the escutcheons on my 56 with some really nice reproductions.  They did not include the O ring seals.  I have not finished putting the washer circuit together yet to try it.  Anyone know of a source for them other than getting an assortment pack of O rings from Advanced Auto Parts?

Wayne,

I do not know if those are been reproduced, I checked the regular rubber/weather-stripping suppliers and could not find them back then. Have you checked the same supplier that sold you the reproduce escutcheons?

I had to use a small piece about 1/8” of the rubber hose smaller ID that would fit in the washer fluid pipe at the wiper transmission and shape it a bit to fit in the concave place at the escutcheon.  From memory I believe I’ve used the same hose as the one for the going from the washer pump over to the control knob.

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082


J. Gomez

Quote from: chstitans42 on June 13, 2017, 06:41:38 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiX8UZdWM2Y&t=25s

Ben,

After taking a look at your video the pump seems to be working fine it only provides a small burst of fluid which is held inside the pump reservoir. It is too lengthy to explain the pump function in words.   ;)

Again if you do not see fluid squirting from the nozzles you need to do more surgery inside the escutcheon as I stated above. The rubber seal maybe bad and/or nuzzles could be plug.

If you have an electric washer pump handy you can use it for testing the lines/nuzzles. If one is not available I’ve used a cheap trick, using a bottle of drinking water drill a hole on the cap, smaller than the rubber hose diameter so the hose can seal the hole. Fill the bottle and insert the hose in the hole and squeezed the bottle to force water out. Bingo..!

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

chstitans42

Great idea Jose! When are you coming to look at my parts car?