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My '76 Eldorado Convertible Experience

Started by joeinbcs, January 28, 2017, 08:08:20 AM

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joeinbcs

Howdy...after reading another member's story, I thought mine might be useful for someone interested in owning one of these cars. 
Lots of these cars around with low mileage, and the prices are all over the map...
Hagerty has a value of something like $38K for a number 2 car...Not sure where they come up with these prices, but my sense of the market is that a nice, low mileage car with original paint and nice leather can be bought for high teens to mid $20's... less if you get lucky as I did. 
Even a very nice car will probably have the following issues unless they have been seen to:
1.  Door panels that are cracked or faded or both.  Upper panels are not hard to fix yourself.  I did mine with Sierra grain vinyl (not the correct wrinkly finish, but matches the vinyl used in other surfaces on the car).  Even if you pay thousands to Just Dashes, it will not be correct, so you might as well do it yourself.  All it costs is a modest amount for a couple yards of vinyl, some 3M adhesive, some staples and a staple gun and, if you want to make your life much better, a special GM interior socket from Snapon that makes disassembly of the door panels very easy.  Recovering the upper door panels is a project anyone with attention to detail can tackle...believe me, I have no special aptitude or experience. I had my upholstery guy recover the lower door panels and that required a "French stitch" along the edge which is not correct, but actually might be an improvement on the original.  As you can see in the attached pic, they need a little help...the glue he used is not adequate, so I'm going to take them apart and use 3M adhesive.  An easy fix.  So, a couple hundred bucks versus...well, considerably more from Just Dashes.
2.  Faded carpet.  Another thing that you will almost certainly need to do, regardless of the car's mileage is replace the carpeting...it fades on all cars and discolors on some, even with virtually no use.  I also added Dynamatt and Dynaliner while I had the interior out of the car.  Pretty easy project, except for the backs of the front seats, which I outsourced to my upholstery guy...you have to remove the upper seat covers and the carpeted sections and sew in the new carpet...far beyond my skill set, and about $400. well spent.
3.  Heater Core.  I also replaced the heater core in my car while I had the carpet out...it was leaking...and with the help of Gerald Loidl and his website, the manual, etc., I did the job in just about what the manual says a mechanic should take to do it (12 hours).  Believe me, if you can read, you can do this.  I have pretty limited mechanical skills, but I labeled everything as I took it off and followed the manual and Gerald's instructions...I wouldn't say easy exactly, but not nearly as difficult as I'd been led to believe.
4.  A/C compressor.  I also replaced the A/C compressor...once again...do not be afraid of this...Its actually quite simple, especially with a little advice from Greg Surfas.  Also replace the dessicant in the VIR valve, then recharge the system.  My car is still R12, and this is available on EBay.
5.  Radiator.  An original radiator will probably need replacing.  I chose to re-core mine, even though at around $700., it was a lot more than the modern replacements...I like the original brass/copper item better than the plastic replacements that are prone to failure.
6.  Top.  If it has an original top, it will need replacing...This cost me about $2K because I figured as long as I was at it I would have new side cables installed and replace the faded well liner and drip shroud.  Works perfectly and the Robins top fits great.  I recommend you find a top shop you trust and have them get the top.
7.  Front shocks.  If they're original, replace them.  I put KYB's on my car and the difference was amazing...no more wallowing around...not exactly sporting, but at least competent and confidence inspiring.
Things I would look for:
1.  A good steering wheel.  You can have the wheel done for something like $800.00, but why not find one with a perfect wheel...there are plenty.
2.  Very nice leather.  The leather on these cars can hold up surprisingly well.  Even white, which I have, can look almost new (as mine does).  Yes, you can reupholster, but there are enough cars with quite nice leather, why bother with one that does not have it.
3.  Original paint.  I suppose a high quality two-stage paint job is a good thing, but I prefer original, even if the acrylic enamel is not as shiny...it just looks right.
4.  Twin comfort seats...I wouldn't buy one without these...there are plenty of cars with this option...most were probably equipped this way...these seats are very comfortable, and contribute significantly to the enjoyment of the car...even for little guys like me.
5.  All the other options...my car has just about everything you could get, including illuminated entry (the tiny light at the door handle that comes on when you push in the button, as well as the interior lights)...all the other cool stuff that was only on Cadillac's back in the day...its all fun, and it all works on my car...find one that also has all its stuff working if you can...save yourself some headaches...
These cars are a lot of fun and bang for the buck.  I wasn't really a huge fan, preferring the superior build quality and styling of '67-'70 Eldorado's (of which I have two), but got a very good deal on mine.  Now that I have spent some time with the car, I'm reluctant to get rid of it, even though I could make a few bucks on it...it big, its brash and a lot of fun...not nearly as clunky to drive as I would have thought.  And, the performance, while not exactly exhilarating, is surprisingly adequate.  Yes, the front and rear are needlessly busy with way too many parts, yes, there's tons of plastic and fake wood, but somehow, it all works pretty well.
I think values are moving up on these...and, its a good time to find a low-mileage example.
But, I recommend finding one that does not need more than the things I've listed; low mileage examples (mine has 34K) should not need major transmission/engine work...if you find one that does, I would keep looking...

Post reply
Joe Northrop
9633 Whispering Ridge
College Station, TX  77845
joenorthrop@yahoo.com
979-324-6432

1967 Eldorado, Atlantis Blue Firemist (slick top), Blue leather.

chrisntam

Great write up and a nice looking car.  I love the color!

Sounds like you definitely put some time into it, along with a little bit of money.  It is large.  I wish my '70 had the dual comfort seat, but alas, it is a bench.  Is your leather soft?  Mine is not, I'm trying various things to soften it up.  I too replaced the carpet and had the local shop do the back of the front seat, I spent $500, though he did a little padding work while in there.  Can't really do the carpet unless you do the seat as well, kinda makes it more of a project than one initially thinks.

Thanks for posting this!
1970 Deville Convertible 
Dallas, Texas

Scot Minesinger

Very nice car, why sell it?  Although the 67 - 70 Eldorados are nice, they are not convertibles.

On your list to a low mileage Cadillac I would add these mechanical items:

1.  Replace the timing chain set, this can be done without removing engine
2.  Check engine and trans mounts, rubber fails with age, not always mileage
3.  Replace upper and lower rubber control arm bushings, also anti-sway bar bushings (frame and end)
4.  Replace all rubber brake and fuel lines (front and rear)
5.  Replace fuel pump (on carb cars) if original (internal rubber components)
6.  Replace all rubber original vacuum lines under hood
7.  Replace all hoses and belts in question
8.  Weather stripping on trunk, doors and cowl may need attention (plus convertible top)
9.  If carb has never been rebuilt, probably should be.

10.  If engine is leaking oil, it is probably from rear main seal and trans could use a reseal and replacement of soft parts inside, so engine trans would be pulled to do this work and cleaned.  Then while this unit is out clean/restore engine bay.

This list is by no means limiting, as further work may be required.  Usually your wallet or imagination are the limiting factors on what you can invest in these beautiful Cadillacs. 

I think your list is the smart money concentrating more on cosmetics, that is what brings the money.

Enjoy your Cadillac!

Number 10 is a stretch, but not out of the ordinary.  If you do all these ten mechanical things the car value will increase 15 or 15 cents.  This is only for the person who plans to drive the car a bit and requires a reliable durable driver.
Fairfax Station, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

joeinbcs

Yes, my leather is soft...remarkably...almost like new.
Thanks, Scot for the very comprehensive list of deferred maintenance items that may also need attention on all of our cars.  I think I need to add a few to my list!
Joe Northrop
9633 Whispering Ridge
College Station, TX  77845
joenorthrop@yahoo.com
979-324-6432

1967 Eldorado, Atlantis Blue Firemist (slick top), Blue leather.

TJ Hopland

You just mention front shocks?  Nothing about the rears and level ride?

Being a 76 no issues with the hydroboost or rear calipers?

Power antenna?

Or because that stuff had a high failure rate with age was already done on your car?
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

joeinbcs

ALC and antenna work well on my car.
Brakes were gone through shortly before I got it, and work great.
My car was in a collection and the owner had a full time mechanic who actually lived with the cars.
It was pretty well attended to mechanically, but had mostly cosmetic issues to attend to when I got it.
Joe Northrop
9633 Whispering Ridge
College Station, TX  77845
joenorthrop@yahoo.com
979-324-6432

1967 Eldorado, Atlantis Blue Firemist (slick top), Blue leather.

76eldo

Joe

Great post.
I find that with these cars it's all about how they were stored and maintained.
My black 76 was garage kept and fanatically maintained by the original owners from new until 2000.

The owner died and the car was sold to a guy that did very little with it.

I bought it in 2003 and although the paint has some flaws it still shines up beautifully and even though it has 98,000 miles on it I'd say it runs and drives line one with 30,000 or so on it.

Since I have owned it I did the front axles and upper and lower ball joints just because it was easy while doing the axles. Also replaced the front shocks and sway bar links for the same reason.

These are great cars in my opinion and make a statement on the road.

Something about a humongous 500 inch front wheel drive beast makes me smile every time I drive it.

Brian
Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

Caddyjack

Great find, Joe! I also got lucky a few years back, finding a one owner Florida snowbird car owned by a rich family from Rhode Island that spent winters in West Palm Beach and used this car when they were in FLA. Bought it with 34k on the odometer and have enjoyed it enough the past 5 years to bring it to 46k on the clock.

The only things I've had to have done was a new top and I installed a rebuilt climate control programmer. I only need to fix the cruise control and power antenna, but those aren't really that important to me at this point.  The 1976 Cadillac Eldorado....WHAT A GREAT RIDE, for sure.

Mine is the same color as yours, Kingswood Green Metallic, with a tan interior. Excellent color.

Oh, any luck in your search for an XLR? ;)

Jack
Jack Larson
Philadelphia, PA

7gen

My 76 is Greenbriar Firemist - nothing says "1970s" like a green car! Remember avocado appliances?

I have a few questions:

1) I need to do the upper door panels. Would you do a small write-up on the tools you used and how you went about doing the work? I'm a complete novice at this but it sounds do-able.

2) Where did you get the vinyl? And did you use the existing upper panel as a template for the new skin?

3) How hard are the front seats to remove? I need to work on getting the driver's side power adjuster working better and thought I'd start with just cleaning the tracks. However, the Fisher Body Guide makes just removal look tough.

Thanks!!

joeinbcs

My car is Greenbriar Firemist.
As for the upper door panels, here's my recollection.
First take the small forward screw off the slender wood tone trim piece that divides the door panel roughly in two.
Slide the piece backward and it will pop off revealing three or four screws beneath.
Take these off and the top portion of the panel will pop toward you and come off if you pull it up out of the window channel.
Turn it over and have a look at the special nuts that hold the padded panel to the door panel.
Here's where you need the GM interior trim socket that Snap-on makes.
I suppose there other ways to remove the nuts, but this socket will make your life a lot easier (https://store.snapon.com/Door-Handle-Trim-Pad-Trim-Nuts-Nut-Driver-Trim-GM-P643268.aspx).
Remove the nuts and then the padded portion.  Take off the vinyl covering and use it as a template for the new vinyl.  Cut out the new vinyl piece and begin a few staples.  You will need to play with the vinyl to get a tight fit over the foam beneath.  I can't recall if I used any glue...if I did it was only around the periphery.  Stretch the vinyl until its taught and continue stapling...the corners are a little tricky, but you'll figure out how you have to stretch and pull until you can't see any folds or wrinkles.  It might be a good idea to get enough vinyl to have a practice run.  It should be tight, but not too tight...it takes a bit of experimenting to get things to look right.
Reattach the recovered padded piece and reverse the instructions.
Its really not difficult at all if you take your time. 
You can buy Sierra grain vinyl at many different places.  I'm pretty sure this is what I got:  http://www.yourautotrim.com/noname105.html
If you have any other questions, feel free to PM me or post a reply here.  Good luck!  Joe
Joe Northrop
9633 Whispering Ridge
College Station, TX  77845
joenorthrop@yahoo.com
979-324-6432

1967 Eldorado, Atlantis Blue Firemist (slick top), Blue leather.

Walter Youshock

That color combination is my personal favorite on a convertible.  Cool. Calming and classic.  No wonder Cadillac used it as the catalog car many times.
CLC #11959 (Life)
1957 Coupe deVille
1991 Brougham

joeinbcs

Here's a few pics of the car in bright sun...the Greenbriar Firemist seems to look quite different depending on how much sun hits it.
Joe Northrop
9633 Whispering Ridge
College Station, TX  77845
joenorthrop@yahoo.com
979-324-6432

1967 Eldorado, Atlantis Blue Firemist (slick top), Blue leather.

7gen

Thanks for the tips!! Your car is just like mine, only I think you have a better paint job. Mine's original but doesn't seem to have that same luster.

joeinbcs

Oh, I forgot to answer your question about the front seats.
They're quite heavy, so it helps to have an extra hand, but they're otherwise easy to get out.
There are two bolts (or nuts...) at each corner of each seat...eight total per seat if you have the twin seats like I do.  You may have to move the seat back and forward to access all the bolts, so leave power until you get all the bolts/nuts off.
Before you remove them, make sure to unhook the two plugs at the bottom of each seat...I think one is power to the seat motor and the other unlocks the seatbacks.
I did it myself, so it is possible, but if you have somebody around who can give you a hand, save your back...
Joe Northrop
9633 Whispering Ridge
College Station, TX  77845
joenorthrop@yahoo.com
979-324-6432

1967 Eldorado, Atlantis Blue Firemist (slick top), Blue leather.

LenInLA

What a great write up!

My 76 is also greenbrier firemist - a stunning color in my opinion!

A few questions:

1. Why did you bother with the AC? How often do you need it in a convertible?

2. Did you do all 4/2 or just one lower door panel? How much did it cost you if you don't mind sharing. The driver side lower door panel on my car is in awful shape.

Leonard Grayver

The Tassie Devil(le)

I am always using the AC in my Convertible.   Nothing worse than travelling on a stinkingly hot day, with the hot sun beating down on the balding head.   When it is like this, I have the top up, windows up, and AC on.

In Winter, I also have the AC on, but in heating mode.

Bruce. >:D

PS.   I have to get my AC topped up as the R134a gas must be leaking out the hoses, which haven't been changed as yet.   One of those "got to do" jobs. 
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

joeinbcs

Quote from: LenInLA on February 05, 2017, 04:10:21 AM
What a great write up!

My 76 is also greenbrier firemist - a stunning color in my opinion!

A few questions:

1. Why did you bother with the AC? How often do you need it in a convertible?

2. Did you do all 4/2 or just one lower door panel? How much did it cost you if you don't mind sharing. The driver side lower door panel on my car is in awful shape.

Leonard Grayver

Thanks, Leonard.
I use A/C a lot here in Texas.  Its too hot to drive the car with the top down much of the year, and the A/C is essential.  I also like to have it on when its cool enough for top down cruising.
As for the door panels, I did the tops myself, and because I wasn't really satisfied with the way my guy did the lower panels, he didn't charge me anything.  I gave him $100. anyway.  They're not bad, but they could be better if I took them apart and glued them using the stronger 3M product.
Anyway, the car's for sale now, and I'm leaving it to the new owner to live with them as they are or fix them.
Joe Northrop
9633 Whispering Ridge
College Station, TX  77845
joenorthrop@yahoo.com
979-324-6432

1967 Eldorado, Atlantis Blue Firemist (slick top), Blue leather.

76eldo

I have owned a lot of Cadillacs and have my dream fleet right now.
I think that anyone that has a good looking, good running 76 Eldo convertible that sells it will immediately suffer from sellers remorse.

For me it would be the last one I would sell.

Back in 79 when I bought my first 76 I was about 21 years old and it was my everyday driver.  The hoopla of the last convertible had settled down and mine had about 40,000 miles on it.  I bought it at a dealer for $6400.00 and my mother co signed for me. It was black/red with white top.

I had it for a while and sold it and my 56 T bird when I got engaged and was buying a house.

Fast forward to 2003. Many cars later I found another black and red 76 convertible and watched it not sell on eBay twice.  I messaged the owner and got his phone number and we spoke on the phone.  I bought that car when I saw it in person for basically the same price as my first one. It was just like my old one was preserved somehow and I bonded with the car instantly.
Owning and driving these old cars is buying back a piece of your youth and I feel great driving mine.  Good luck with the sale and I hope you find another car that makes you feel good.

Brian
Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

joeinbcs

Yes, Brian, I'll miss it, but I have two other Eldorado's, so I won't be lonely.
I know the XLRV that will replace it is a very different experience, but its an itch I need to scratch...
I may be in the market again one day soon...if this one sells...
Joe Northrop
9633 Whispering Ridge
College Station, TX  77845
joenorthrop@yahoo.com
979-324-6432

1967 Eldorado, Atlantis Blue Firemist (slick top), Blue leather.

bcroe

Use Scots maintenance list for a much more reliable car.  A lot of these
had the Electronic Fuel Injection option, which will add some more
maintenance.  All the rubber in the EFI system should be replaced,
from the O rings on the injectors all the way back to the hoses on the
tank.  Otherwise the risk of a fire is way, WAY up. 

The early EFI is always trying to burn out the pin on the Engine
Control Unit which powers the fuel pumps.  Half the ECUs I see are
in some stage of burning out this pin.  Adding a relay to divert the
current away from the ECU can take care of this.  Details on doing
this are in the Nov-Dec 2010 SELF STARTER and the first album of
my PHOTOBUCKET, every 70s EFI Cad needs this.  A kit is available. 
In addition having a spare ECU in back is a good idea; at this age
they can quit without warning, and are hard to find. 

Was "touring suspension" offered on these cars?  It was on my 79-
85 downsized Eldo, which in part in involves heavier torsion bars
and sway bars.  I transferred all these parts to my 79, but it took
a set of KYB KG4531 gas shocks to finally stop wallowing.  What
size does the 76 use, could they be the same? 

It is also possible to bolt KG5573 gas shocks onto the rear of 79 E
cars, I wonder if Seville and the larger 76 are the same?  However
this would mean eliminating the air adjustable feature, instead
using air bags or stronger springs.  Bruce Roe