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Steering Column Rag Joint Looseness

Started by bcroe, May 02, 2017, 08:24:22 PM

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bcroe

Once again I am trying to get the 79 Eldo into top notch handling condition.  At
purchase 22 years ago, this was a huge project, but finally successful.  One item
was the shaft between the steering box and the firewall; the rubber disc or
"rag joint" had become too loose/mushy.  At the time it was fixed with Fire River
parts which replaced the rubber with metal U joints.  Unfortunately these
transmitted a lot more road vibration to the wheel.  Now they, after a couple
decades but rather few miles, have loosened up. 

So to try something never attempted here before, the original shaft will be rebuilt
with a new rubber disk.  I saw a limo that actually had two rubber discs stacked
up, that will be plan B.  There are a few of these assemblies here, so one will be
rebuilt before the current shaft is removed. 

I have drilled out the rivets and worked loose the collapsable section.  THAT should
make fitting it in place a lot easier, this time.  Obviously getting this back together
right will be REALLY IMPORTANT.  I have a Dorm*n 31002 kit with a rubber disk
appearing even more robust than my original.  Thicker, and a tiny bit greater
diameter, holes in the right places.  However there are only 2 bolts and I need 4;
somewhere in the fine print it says Chrysler/Ford. 

Steering Coupler 31011 looks like it fits 77-78; I really don't see one listed as a
direct fit for 79.  Hard to understand, as mine looks exactly like the one in every
one of the many cars of the era I have owned.  In the past nobody, not even column
specialists, seemed to have a made-to-order solution. 

I suppose the suspension bushings will need replacement again, am considering
going for poly instead of stock rubber.  And just how many years will a wonderful
KYB gas shock keep its gas before degradation?  Later...    Bruce Roe

bcroe

#1
Some progress here.  I ground a slight bit off the 31002 kit rubber disk, and
got it to fit into my 79 shaft assembly. The problem was the metal portion
shaft holes are 5/16", but the rubber disc holes are 3/8".  This was solved with
1/2" long sleeves of those measurements inserted into the rubber, McMasters
9368T115.  4 bolts 5 grade hold it together, selected so that the only section
threaded was where the nuts actually went on; the rest is just round. 

Nuts were used to secure all.  Ordinary lock washers are useless when clamping
down rubber; things will move and loosen.  So all steel, distorted thread locking
nuts were used which lock directly onto the bolt threads, McMasters 90040A030. 
To leave no doubt, a second such nut was used against the first, locking the 2
together, and Threadlocker Red was on the threads as well. 

This did cause some clearance problems with the special bolt that retains the
assembly on the steering box.  With nuts locked on a bit of a notch was ground
on one nut, then the bolt & nut assembly was 1/4 turned to line up with the
retaining bolt.  The compete assembly now awaits swapping onto the car, along
with doing another alignment job. 

The 31011 assembly will fit into the car, with a much bigger rubber disc that
might perform better.  But it doesn't bolt up to the 79 collapsable section, wonder
if the 78 version would fit in my car?  So far I haven't figured a way to adapt it,
that doesn't involve some life critical welding. 

Parts are also accumulating for a complete upgrade of the rear suspension;
touring springs, KYB shocks, and no auto leveling.  Bruce Roe

bcroe

Here are some pictures of my attempts to repair the rag joint.  Parts used
are described above.  This all seems to fit together pretty well.  The 3rd
picture shows the assembly cleaned up and slid together for installation;
it will slide out about 5".  The last pic shows an old rag joint.  Its pretty
mushy and also physically much less robust (thinner) than my latest
attempt. 

Despite this it isn't installed yet.  The other end boils down to a nominal
1" shaft with flats on 2 sides 0.8" apart.  However these parts are more
like punched out than machined, and after the 1st use can get distorted
by the special retaining bolt.  When I get the distortion removed, they
should go together.  Bruce Roe

TMoore - NTCLC

Hi Bruce -

Can you tell me what the distance is between the holes on the D*man replacement joints?  I am working on a different project, and need to find the rubber that has 4 holes that are on 2" centers - the product description does not provide that measurement.

Thanks in advance if you happen to have that -

Tod

bcroe

Quote from: TMoore - NTCLCHi Bruce -
Can you tell me what the distance is between the holes on the D*man replacement joints?  I am working on a different project, and need to find the rubber that has 4 holes that are on 2" centers - the product description does not provide that measurement. Thanks in advance -  Tod 

Tod,

Here is what I have collected
Hole    hole       disc
dia   spacing    thick     from
3/8"   1.875"   9/16"   31002 Dorm

3/8"    2.5"       1/2"    31011  Dorm assembly

3/8"   2.375"     1/2"    HELP

3/8"   2.375"     3/8"    26733      2290500

Bruce

TMoore - NTCLC

Perfect - thanks for providing that missing piece of info.

Tod