Question for 60s 4 door sedan owners

[Steve Cole]

Well, Ive done some more contemplating and I wanted to get some feedback by others who might have 4 door sedans. Heres a photo of the passenger side leading edge from inside my 61:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/lead_edg.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/lead_edg.jpg

Looking at this photo, is the crome interior flat trim piece on the leading edge on your vehicle flush with the upper roof rail or does it sit below like mine does in the photo? Im speculating that maybe I need to raise the windows the 1/2 or so to make them flush with the upper roof rail.

Ive scoured through all of my sales brochures & photos but I cant find a good photo to compare against.

Thanks-

Steve

[Bruce Reynolds # 18992]

Gday Steve,

Not sure if I can help you here, but if the tops of the windows are sitting up nicely in the Roof Rail weatherstrip, then I cant see how the chrome piece can sit up any higher than it is at the moment as it is attached to the rear door glass frame.

Is it at all possible that the chrome strip is adjustable?

Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le)
60 CDV

[David #19063]

Hello Steve,

I have a 19,000 mile 1960 6-window I just looked at for you.

The chrome trim on 60s windows seems to be different than the chrome window trim on the 61.  

Although with that being said, the wide chrome time on mine, both windows, does not reach the top of the chrome trim on the window.  Mine seems to have the rubber that the windows seal into and behind.

Can you post a picture with both windows down 1 inch?

Is your car a flat top, 6 window, or short deck?

By the way, I believe in any case, you have a hardtop, not a sedan (no post/B-pillar).

David

[Steve Cole]

My car is a 1961 6 window Sedan de Ville.

With tomorrow off, Ill be doing some prep work removing the old weatherstrip adhesive so Ill take some addition photos & post a follow up. I think the problem is more apparent from the outside.

The passenger side has all new weatherstriping & the drivers side is still original so I can provide dual views.

[Jim Eccleston CLC 16079]

I agree with Bruce. The strip looks like it is non-adjustatble, and is at its top limit. As long as the top of the window frame is snug against the weatherstripping, it really cant go much higher. Another way to check is by looking at the belt line. When the window is up, does the bottom of the chrome frame rise enough to just barely touch the rubber outer wiper, or is there a gap between them?
Ill keep searching my photo boxes and see if I have any pics from my junkyard expeditions.

[Jim Eccleston CLC 16079]

and it looks like the windows rise up higher than in your pic. The bottom of the top window frame is almost flush with the bottom of the roof rail garnish molding. The top of the center strip is also much higher and closer to the bottom of the molding. I think the main determining factor will be the fit of the window against the weatherstripping. Would you like a scan of this pic?

[Steve Cole]

Jim-  YES, PLEASE!  

To be clear, I wasnt suggesting that the flat trim piece was adjustable. I know that its firmly attached to the window; I just thought it would be a good visual guide of comparison.

Ill still post some photos pertaining to the discussion later today..

[Steve Cole]

Thanks for your photo, Jim. That photo seems to confirm my theory. I took a variety of photos today
so here they are:

Gap in original weatherstriping on drivers side:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic01.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic01.jpg

Lower drivers side door:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic02.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic02.jpg

Looking towards the rear- lower drivers side door and rear door:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic03.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic03.jpg

Lower passenger side door:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic04.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic04.jpg

Looking towards the rear- lower passenger side door and rear door:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic05.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic05.jpg

Passenger side windows lowered 1:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic06.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic06.jpg

More detail- passenger side windows lowered 1:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic07.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic07.jpg

Drivers side windows lowered 1:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic08.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic08.jpg

More detail- drivers side windows lowered 1:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic09.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic09.jpg

Rear door, drivers side, fully raised into roof rail:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic10.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic10.jpg

Detail on lower rear door, drivers side:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic11.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic11.jpg

Rear door, passengers side, fully raised into roof rail:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic12.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic12.jpg

Detail on rear door, passenger side:

http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic13.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://home.earthlink.net/~scoler/pic13.jpg



So- it would seem Im going to have to rip apart the doors and do some work. The regulators on both rear door windows
work slowly so it seems like Im going to have to replace those. Anyways, can someone offer a sequence for the adjustments??

[Porter 21919]

Steve,

My 66 CDV windows were very slow, what happens is the grease gets old and hard or nonexistent after 35 years, on my drivers door that got used the most one of the nylon rollers on the window regulators wore out , they are riveted on,  wore out and it came out of the track. I removed the glass, sandblasted the rust off the regulator tracks and coated them with cold galvanizing compound, the hardware store had a comparable nylon roller and I bolted it on with a machine screw, worked out fine.

I cleaned all that hard caked grease out of the tracks and relubed with the white grease, they zip up and down now with ease, plan on wearing your battery down pretty quick running them without the engine runnning.

My glass has no frame, the pass. side door glass always went up to high, I adjusted the stops on both sides to set the proper height all the way up for when you close the door, also inside out adjustment to hug all the new weatherstrip nice and snug.

Granted your 61 is somewhat different but these cars werent adjusted with all that great of a fit and finish from the factory, my door, fender and hood gaps are near perfect now, not so before. Now the car is over-restored and modified, shame on me.

Just pull one door panel and observe the adjustments, should be self explanatory, I had no shop or body manual.

Good luck,

Porter

[Jim Eccleston CLC 16079]

Hi Steve,
   Yes, it looks like your passenger side windows need to be adjusted. (Your driver side look fine.) It is not as hard as you might think, especially since it is only the upward travel that is off. After removing the door panels (15 min each, max) you will find a bolt near each track (at the rear side on my coupe)that tightens an upside down L-shaped bracket, about 2 inches long. The long part slides up and down in the window channel, and is tightened by the bolt. The short part of the L extends inward toward the window frame. This bracket is the stop. Loosen the bolt, move the window upward (which will also move the L bracket) until you gain the correct height, then tighten the bolt back down.
   This is also the right time to lubricate all of the tracks, gears, and sliding hardware. It will be miraculous how much a good cleaning can assist window movement. Dont forget lots of white lithium of other good grease in the tracks.
   The entire procedure is outlined in the shop manual, in the Body section. If you dont have a manual, Ill scan and send the appropriate pages to to. Let me know.


Jim

[Steve Cole]

Thanks for the info, Jim.

I do have the shop manual and know where to read up on the adjustment of the upward travel. Two things, though:

* What section/note is best to reference when doing the cleaning/re-lubrication of the window travel?

* The Body section keeps stating to remove the door trim assembly but I cant find a more detailed description of that process. I know theres a few screws to remove such as the arm rests but what about the rest?

Thanks again-

[Jim Eccleston CLC 16079]

Hi Steve,
   I dont think the shop manual mentions how to lubricate the window channels. They probably didnt think it would need to be done during the planned service life of the cars. I just removed mine, soaked them in degreaser, then slatherd them with white litium grease. Once you get the trim panel off, youll see them in there, and know what to do. If you do remove them, it will make installing and realigning them mor etime consuming, but it can be done. I have hadd ALL of mine out. Fitting them back just requires trial and error.
   Look in the shop manual on page 15-85... section 99 for the trim removal instructions. For step 5, if you dont have a trim remover tool (Who does???) I just used a broad, flat screwdriver (or putty knife) and covered the painted section of the door with a cloth.
   My water deflector sheet was disintegrated - after 44 years, most will be. I went to a nearby construction site and obtained some roofing tar paper. Cut it to fit, use duct tape around the edges to hold it in place, then poke the holes needed for the bolts & screws of the trim panel when you re-install it.
   Let me know if I can help out.