Author Topic: 1968 DeVille Convertible - driver restoration (Read 6920 times)

Bob Steur · « **on:** October 30, 2010, 07:15:34 PM »

Bought this 68 Convertible a year and a half ago. Tired of seeing it sitting in the driveway, I got a sudden urge to get it going and take a break from piecing together my 59 Coupe.

Transmission slips, front end is out of whack, you can see the wheels are out of alignment looking at the front of the car. Rust in trunk, floors, and battery tray. The usual rust bottom of front fenders. Quarters look okay. Bad top and interior. Climate Control, Tilt Telescopic, AM FM Stereo, but strangely, only a single speaker on the dash. Incorrect wheel covers, they appear to be 66-67 vintage.

What made me want to get going on it finally was finding someone who had a complete red leather interior for sale, and a fender AND a rad cradle complete with battery tray. That, and one of the tool stores had transmission jacks on sale!

Bob Steur · « **Reply #1 on:** October 30, 2010, 07:27:55 PM »

So I put it up on stands, rolling my 59 to one side for the time being, and in about three and a half hours, including coffee break, removed the trans. The one thing I can never seem to do with this job is to remove the driveshaft first. So I lowered the trans, pulled it forward and free, and then pulled the driveshaft off. Different perhaps but it works for me. Took it in to the rebuilders, took the driveshaft in for inspection, and cleaned and painted parts like the crossmember and dust shield.

I have to say, these transmission jacks are a snap to use, don't pull a transmission without one. Basically a floor jack with two knobs that let you fine tune the tilt of the plaform that goes under the transmission pan. The only catch is that the combined height of the jack and transmission is more than you can raise the car with most jacks and jackstands. You can buy a King Kong jack and jackstands that raise the car over 30", or slide the trans onto a conventional floor jack, and then to a piece of heavy cardboard and pull it free of the car.

Bob Steur · « **Reply #2 on:** October 30, 2010, 07:37:18 PM »

So while I have the trans out and the car up on stands, I decide to take a better look at the front end. Well, I found the right lower control arm had been pushed rearward, probably the previous owner hit a curb pretty hard. So here's the strange part. Control arm does not look bent, BUT - bracket attaching the control arm to the frame is almost completely torn off. (Tried to take a picture, but couldn't yet - keep reading!)

So I know that it will need welding. But you can hardly see the darn thing, and anyway you don't want to weld right near the engine oil pan... so you know what's coming next. I have to remove the engine! I have the local body/frame shop guy come over (yes - house calls!) and he confirms my diagnosis.

Bob Steur · « **Reply #3 on:** November 02, 2010, 01:20:20 AM »

Here is the engine coming out. Actually pretty easy. The only goof I made was thinking the two pairs of engine to mount bolts should come out, when the right way to do it is to remove the nuts on the frame mounts from the bottom, thru the holes in the frame. So I removed the AIR pump and alternator when I didn't have to, not a big deal. I also removed the water pump to clear the rad support, even tho I will replace the rad support at some time in the future. Just don't want to get too far ahead of myself yet!

This didn't take long, about 5 hours working slowly and carefully.

Removing the seats and carpet will be next.

Bob Steur · « **Reply #4 on:** November 19, 2010, 09:42:21 AM »

I removed the seats, sill plates, and carpet. Now you can see the rusted floorboards. Just the low spots are rusted, probably from the carpet staying wet. Three of the four floorboards will need to be replaced - the fourth, right front is fine, probably because it is higher.

What looks like a patch panel in the bottom picture is actually a heating duct for rear seat heat. Yes, even in 68 they had this! Gotta love Cadillac for being a Cadillac.

Note the hole where the gas pedal is supposed to be!

Bob Steur · « **Reply #5 on:** November 19, 2010, 10:00:19 AM »

I found a few things when I took out the interior:

The body build sheet, showing original options of "AIR COND, EZI GLASS, 6 WAY SEAT." This was folded and left somewhere under the rear seat area. I will add it to my binder o' documentation for the car.

A bunch of miscellaneous junk: Laffy Taffy, screwdriver, pliers, an amusement park token saying "round and round she goes, where she stops, nobody knows", a golf tee, a name plate, a lighter, $1.12 in change...

...and four empty shell casings from a .38 Special.

Bob Steur · « **Reply #6 on:** November 19, 2010, 10:10:35 AM »

Now that the engine is out you can see the lower control arm brackets, looking down thru the engine compartment while standing in front of the car.

She must have been moving pretty good when she hit that curb!

Rob Troxel · « **Reply #7 on:** November 23, 2010, 03:51:47 PM »

bOB,

THANKS for sharing your adventure. I am following the progress!

Regards,

57flw · « **Reply #8 on:** November 24, 2010, 03:24:41 AM »

Hi Bob,

You post is good to watch. Glad to see someone else is having fun too.

I feel lucky to have a big shed with a hoist.

Enjoy your rebuild.

Ken

CaddyCain · « **Reply #9 on:** November 30, 2010, 07:51:43 PM »

Hi Bob,

Regarding your front suspension problem, I have just discovered the exact same problem on my '66 Convertible here in Australia. I have had the car 3 years and it would appear the 77,000 mi on the odometer is genuine. I have had a small noise in the front end for a while. A recent club run took in about 4 mi of dirt roads. When we did a U-turn later there was a loud bang. On checking I found the 'ear' on the RHS rear of the cross member completely broken off! On dissassembly I also found the inner mount through the cross member was also totally torn out - it was all hanging on by....nothing!
I had driven home at 60 MPH and was very lucky.

Cheers, Neil Sommers-Cain, Adelaide, South Australia.

Bob Steur · « **Reply #10 on:** January 04, 2011, 04:44:44 PM »

Hi Neil, agree, it does not seem to be a bulletproof design. Definitely can be fixed though.

The "carcass" - car without engine, trans, or interior - is at the local body shop to be welded.

It is minus 8 degrees today in Minnesota and my garage is not heated :-(

The trans is back from the rebuilders. The driveshaft was good as is, they checked the CV joints on it and said they were fine.

Can't wait till warmer weather so I can get started again! My goal is to be driving the car by Labor Day. We'll see.

Bob

Bob Steur · « **Reply #11 on:** February 15, 2011, 08:31:18 PM »

It's been a long winter...

The Tassie Devil(le) · « **Reply #12 on:** February 15, 2011, 09:56:57 PM »

I have heard of "White-walls" but White sides and trunk as well?

Sure looks like good weather to be inside.

Bruce.

WillingtonCad · « **Reply #13 on:** March 02, 2011, 06:24:23 AM »

Hi All, Just letting you know this 67-68 Cadillac only website is back up and running. It may help with restoration and parts info.
http://grou.ps/67_68cadillaccommunity

thanks, Jeff

Bob Steur · « **Reply #14 on:** April 30, 2011, 01:46:31 PM »

The Easter Bunny brought(mostly) warmer weather and my garage potato is back from the body shop. They did an awesome job, especially considering how poorly made the panels were. They replaced three floor panels and welded the control arm mount back on. We decided to leave the trunk as is for now. Rob the body guy was almost apologetic for taking money to fix such an old car - he does mostly late model frame and collision, and doesn't understand why anyone in their right mind would spend time and money on something that may never be finished. Well, friends, my goal is to have this car on the road and driving - not concours, just driving - by Labor Day. I have three kids and a full time job. Think I can do it?

Bob Steur · « **Reply #15 on:** April 30, 2011, 02:05:05 PM »

Here is a shot of the repaired control arm mount. I also installed the red seat, part of a lot of parts I bought last year. Yes, I know it'll look funky with a mix of gold and red parts until I can convert the whole car to a red/white paint scheme. The leather was in much better condition than what came with the car so easy decision to switch everything out. I'll be selling off the light brown seat as soon as I can prove that the motors on the red seat work.

I could not believe how heavy this seat was! But I got it in and bolted down. No carpet yet. Carpet and top are supposed to be done after paint.

Bob Steur · « **Reply #16 on:** June 07, 2011, 07:21:30 AM »

Attended the All GM Show in St. Paul 6/05/11 with the Northstar Cadillac-Lasalle club. Met a guy named Steve who showed his white/red 68 Convertible DeVille. I hope mine looks as nice as that one day! I found out I have to take a certification for work, so I won't get much time in on my car this summer. Would rather be turning wrenches than studying... At least there's lots of shows in the summer here. MSRA Back to the 50's and Car Craft are coming up, those are the big ones, then there are the Cadillac club shows and cruises, weekly shows in Anoka and St. Francis, and our local Culvers frozen custard restaurants put on car shows as well. Ideally, a guy would work on the cars in winter and spend summer taking your car(s) to shows.

Bob Steur · « **Reply #17 on:** August 06, 2011, 06:27:10 PM »

Certification is done and still have half the summer left - time to get to work! With the hood off and engine out, there will never be a better time to replace the leaking heater core. When I was done I left it off the car, to have more room when replacing the engine.

Engine number matches the number on the car indicating it is original. Corvette owners get excited about matching numbers - Cadillac owners, not so much. For me, knowing the engine is original makes the trouble I am about to get into seem worth it! Interestingly there was a change to some engine accessories after number 197766. Mine is one of these "late 68" models. Anyone know more about this?

Bob Steur · « **Reply #18 on:** August 06, 2011, 06:35:33 PM »

Continuing to tear into engine and inspect. Bottom end looks okay, no blueing. Bunch of plastic pieces in the oil pickup. From timing gear maybe?

Bob Steur · « **Reply #19 on:** August 06, 2011, 06:37:32 PM »

Think I need a new timing chain?

First obstacle to getting at the timing chain was the crank snout. I broke the bolts supplied with the puller. After replacing them with some Grade 8 bolts and using an impact wrench on the tool - even though the instructions say not to - I was able to get it off.

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Author Topic: 1968 DeVille Convertible - driver restoration (Read 6920 times)