Bleeding Brakes on my 57 Series 62

[Dan Koser]

I've replaced the wheel cylinders and rebuilt the master cylinder; I've not touched the power brake unit....it worked before I started the restoration, and I'm hoping it will work now. I've followed the shop manual and tightened the star wheel, then backed it off 14 clicks. Following that, I bled the power unit at the two locations, then proceeded to each wheel cylinder (RR, LR, RF, LF). At the end of all that, I have minimal bubbles....and yet have virtually no pedal to show for it. Of course I have to go back through and check everything, but am I missing something here? All this was done with the engine off. Any advice would be appreciated. Regards,   Dan

[TJ Hopland]

I dont know about the booster but in general make sure who ever is pushing on the pedal is pushing it all the way down and holding it there.  I have had a few assistants that just were not pushing hard enough or didnt have long enough legs to get all the way down. 

[walt chomosh #23510]

Dan,
The master cylinder should(must) be bled,generally before any other bleeding is done....walt...tulsa,ok

[Walter Youshock]

Bleed the entire system starting with the master cylinder fitting (lower one on the booster), then the upper one on the booster then: left front; right front; left rear and right rear cylinders in that order.

The hydro-vac is weird.  The whole booster is "wet" in that the master pushes the fluid into the booster where it is expelled under pressure to the cylinders.  One bubble anywhere and you'll notice it.

[Dan Koser]

Bleed the entire system starting with the master cylinder fitting (lower one on the booster), then the upper one on the booster then: left front; right front; left rear and right rear cylinders in that order.

The hydro-vac is weird.  The whole booster is "wet" in that the master pushes the fluid into the booster where it is expelled under pressure to the cylinders.  One bubble anywhere and you'll notice it.

I bled the lower fitting first, then the upper one, but the wheel cylinder order you've outlined I've never heard of before. You're saying do the shortest runs first, and I was taught just the opposite. I'll give this a try though, because I've got pretty much nothing doing it my way.  Regards,   Dan

[Dan Koser]

I dont know about the booster but in general make sure who ever is pushing on the pedal is pushing it all the way down and holding it there.  I have had a few assistants that just were not pushing hard enough or didnt have long enough legs to get all the way down.

Understood TJ, and my assistant is "vertically challenged"...however, she's been helping me for 42 years now and this is the first time I've run into this problem. I'll try Walter's wheel cylinder order of bleeding and see where that gets me.  Regards,    Dan

[Walter Youshock]

Yes--start at the cylinder closest to the master and work outward.  I've always done it that way on my '57.

Do you have the Shop Manual?

[David King (kz78hy)]

I always go the farthest away and work to the smallest.  Doing the booster fittings in the correct order 1st is important.  That is in the manual.

A lesson learned the hard way is to make sure the brake pedal is returned ALL THE WAY.  Otherwise the master cylinder does not get a full refill.  So now I stick my toe under the pedal and make sure it is all the way back when bleeding brakes.

David

[Walter Youshock]

I just looked at the manual and it doesn't specify which cylinder order to go in.  I swear I read it someplace.  Could have been on this Board.

Maybe I've been doing it backwards all these years!  I'll try it the opposite this Spring.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Yes, always bleed the farthest away from the M/C first, then progressively end up at the closest one.

Bruce.

[Coupe]

I was having a difficult time getting a hard pedal on my '57 when I rebuilt the brake system. I finally called Ed Strain, the person that rebuilt the master and booster for me, and was told the following:

1.) disconnect and plug the line from the booster and then bleed the booster.
2.) reconnect the line from the booster start with the farthest wheel ( right rear) then left rear, right front and finally left front.

It took a while to get all the air out compounded by the fact I was using DOT 5.

[Walter Youshock]

Thanks for the info!  Looks like I'll be rebleeding the system.  I usually do it every year or two anyway.  I had a wheel cylinder freeze up on me because of rust and the car almost burned up after a 90-mile drive down the PA Turnpike so I religiously change the brake fluid now.

[Renato]

Always starting the farest cylinder. Brake must work without booster brake. Evry cílinder pump 3 4 times and hold the brake pedal. Sy slowly open the air screw (I do not know the english name ). Important to close before the brake pedal ht the floor.

[Dan Koser]

I was having a difficult time getting a hard pedal on my '57 when I rebuilt the brake system. I finally called Ed Strain, the person that rebuilt the master and booster for me, and was told the following:

1.) disconnect and plug the line from the booster and then bleed the booster.
2.) reconnect the line from the booster start with the farthest wheel ( right rear) then left rear, right front and finally left front.

It took a while to get all the air out compounded by the fact I was using DOT 5.

Coupe....can you clarify? There are two lines tied to the booster: one leads to the master cylinder and the other feeds the rest of the brake lines. Which line do I disconnect before bleeding the booster? Both? Any help would be appreciated.  Regards,   Dan

[Roger Zimmermann]

Dan, just a little bit imagination: if you disconnect the line coming from the master cylinder, how could you bleed the booster?

[Dan Koser]

Dan, just a little bit imagination: if you disconnect the line coming from the master cylinder, how could you bleed the booster?

Apparently your imagination is better than mine.

[Coupe]

Dan, disconnect the line going to the wheels not the the line from the master. The master cylinder is essentially a slave cylinder that operates the booster.