Be sure to see the new CLC website including the news blog and "The Self-Starter blog!
Gornati, I found my notes from 2010. Fixed an ECU for you, which then ran OK at the time. Certainly get all your vacuum hoses replaced by now. It doesn't sound so much like ignition, but could be. If you bought a another spare ECU for your car (everyone with these cars needs a spare), now is the time to try it out. The Bendix # ought to be 161 2947, 161 2950, 161 4449, 161 4450, 161 5882, or 161 6210. You could use a 1977 ECU 161 1188, 161 1189, 161 1190, 161 1191,161 1875, 161 1876, 161 1877, 161 1878, 1612079, or 161 2154. Is your email the same? I'll send message. And make sure the battery is charging OK, ECU needs the voltage to work. You said the battery went dead. Bruce
Gornati, A 77 should be close enough. Come to think of it, any ECU with the right mounting brackets to fit your car, is likely from a 425 engine car anyway. Send me your email, here or to firstname.lastname@example.org Bruce
Hi,My 1970 Cadillac is driven about 4,000 miles each year used three times a week during nice weather. The big problem is poor quality parts. Installed a new starter in 2010. It made the exact same sounds as you describe on yours after only 4,000 miles and it had to be replaced in 2011. Replaced it with rebuilt 1970 starter done at a local shop. Same problems with alternator and other parts. Rockauto tends to offer low cost parts and components often fail prematurely. Another problem is mechanics, they mess up and don't read the manual, they install three mounting bolts when four came with the car originally, and take other short cuts. Even the mechanics with good reputations do this. For example, last work done a few years ago was standard transmission service. Transmission never leaked before, but it did right after the service. Of course the last thing you think it would be is a failure to install the gasket on the pan correctly, but that is what it was. They old gasket was never completely removed-just cutting corners, lazy and etc. Discovered this on my own of course. Granted I have enjoyed some success with some mechanics too, but not consistently. There are some good mechanics out there, but I have yet to find one that I am 100% satisfied with. I do all repairs possible myself now.In your list, you did not say that the fuel lines were replaced, as they should be. They should be replaced with original materials-no installing rubber all the way back. Don't use splices in metal tubing either, use a continuous piece just like the factory did. The spliced metal tubing might not leak, but often you can smell gas in a garage when car is off after it has just run.Probably a good idea to have some gauges and sensors installed so you can monitor leanness mixture, fuel pressure, vacuum, and the like. They can be installed in a hidden place. Then you might be able to figure out what is going on. Since you have chromed some suspension parts departing from original ( I have done some things like this too ), consider maybe converting to a simple carburetor and retaining all the parts so you could always convert back if you want to.Good luck and stay with it, it will be worth it,Scot
It could also be the fuel pump inside the tank. When that one goes bad, the external one has to work harder. I see they did replace the tank pump, did they also replace the little sock filter that is underneath the pump in the tank? If that is clogged, everything has to work harder. Just a thought.My external fuel pump was also very loud. In the end the tank fuel pump was the problem, now they are both pretty quiet. I also read on a Fiero board that the evap canister can cause fuel pumps to have to work harder. Here is the whole article......."Whenever a fuel pump fails, it is wise to do at least two other service procedures: (1) change the fuel filter (Haynes manual, p. 47), and (2) change the vapor recovery canister filter.Most people know about the fuel line filter, but few know about the vapor recovery canister filter. Why should both filters be changed? Because both filters can cause the fuel pump to work harder than necessary, heat up, and fail prematurely. It is fairly obvious that if the fuel line filter is clogged, the fuel pump has to work harder to overcome the obstruction. But exactly what is the vapor recovery canister and how can it affect the fuel pump?"The vapor recovery canister is a part of the fuel system that keeps gasoline vapors from escaping into the atmosphere when the engine is not running and is a required part of the Federal Clean Air Act. It is connected to the fuel tank, throttle body, intake manifold, and among other things, allows expansion and contraction of the gas vapor in the fuel tank to occur without releasing hydrocarbons into the atmosphere.It performs this function by allowing air to pass freely through the canister while trapping hydrocarbon vapors, which are absorbed into activated charcoal granules in the canister when the engine is not running. When the engine is operating, air is drawn through the canister from the atmosphere, and hydrocarbon vapors are swept out of the activated charcoal and burned with the rest of the fue1. The amount of hydrocarbons burned in this manner is exceedingly small and does not affect the air to gasoline ratio.The canister filter is found at the bottom of the canister and is needed to keep airborne dust and other particulate material out of the charcoal bed. If the filter becomes severely clogged, air cannot pass freely through the canister to the fuel tank. When the engine is running and gasoline is being pumped from the tank, an equal volume of air replaces the volume of gasoline leaving the tank, or else a slight vacuum would be produced in the fuel tank. If this happens, the fuel pump must work harder to overcome the vacuum. In a worst-case scenario, the fuel pump will not be able to overcome the vacuum and the engine will starve for gasoline and stop.
Re: the noisy starter. I agree with Scot that it might be a bad, new starter. But also those starters used shims "under" (actually over except you're underneath the car) the mounting bolts between the starter and the block. If your mechanic didn't know to check the gear clearance and shim as necessary that could cause the noise. Or if the car originally had shims but they were not put back. Too little clearance makes for a bad noise and wears out the starter bearings. Changing the starter might fix it but maybe only because the replacement starter measured closer to nominal and didn't need shims (though as I recall most of the difference was between different engines, not between different starters). There's a detailed procedure for shimming the starter in the shop manual.Also I've generally seen that when those cars get worked on people don't put back the flywheel cover. That makes a difference in how loud the starter sounds.-mB
Camillo,If you still have a catylitic converter on your car I might suggest having that checked. The noise and the poor performance are some of the symptoms of a plugged/collapsed Cat.Greg Surfas
Greg, i just made a video, is being uploaded right now to youtube... there no cat, car have a 2.5" with a flowmaster in the end, only....
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