Author Topic: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...  (Read 3552 times)

Offline Camillo Gornati

  • Posts: 41
  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« on: February 11, 2012, 04:19:08 PM »
Hi all, after 18 months my car finally left the shop.

Here is a list of what has been done in car so far:

-Rear Coils
-Rear Shocks
-New Rear Discs
-Rear Brake Pads
-Chrome Rear Sway Bar
-Sway Bar Bushings
-8 Rear bushings
-New brake hoses for the back
-New inside tank FUEL PUMP
-New External FUEL PUMP
-New Transmission Mount
-New Engine Mounts
-8 new bushings for A-Arms
-4 new ball joints
-Chrome front sway bar
-New bushings for Front Sway Bar
-New Tie rod ends, INNER AND OUTER
-New ENGINE SEALS
-New gasket set
-New belts
-New Water Pump
-New front discs
-New front brake pads
-New Power Brakes
-New Master cylinder
-New Seals for fuel injectors
-Remanufactered ECU from a great member here in the forum, which unfortunately i cannot remember his name! Great Guy! The most knowledgeable guy about 70's EFI here...

There is a lot more stuff that has been done, but i cannot remember.

Now i have a few issues, first:

1st. Starter is doing a big noise when turns the car on, like a metal on metal noise, sometimes if fails and only spins, sometimes turns fine.
Now, what should i do? Change the whole STARTER? Change just the Starter Drive and brush?

2ND. Battery is not holding much charge, how can i check alternator?

3rd (and BIGGEST PROBLEM). After i got the car for the first time, i drove it for 20 miles, and i noticed the car failing, (sorry about my English, i am from Brasil) failing and stalling, if i step in the gas pedal, car almost dies, after 2 more miles, car died... tried to turn it back on 3 times, battery is dead :(!!!!

After car spent whole night in the street, i woke, jump start the car and right away, engine is running PERFECTLY, ODD !!!!

I drove the car to my garage, had some lunch, decided to drive to a friends house 12 miles away, on the way, same thing, stalling, failing, and dies!!! i didn't tried to turn it right back on... i wait 10 minutes to cool down, and BAM! turns on right away! drove 1 mile same thing!!! then i waited 30 minutes, and car went fine all the way.

Now what the heck is going on? i could not find a coil in the car, does it have one? what could be causing this? there is 8 fuel injectors, if it is bad fuel or dirty fuel, i dint think it would run well cold and bad hot. looks like an electrical problem! Any ideas solutions?

PLEASE ANY HELP WOULD DO!

I had this car for 4 years now, drove it for the first time, yesterday and had this problem.
Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline bcroe

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Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2012, 05:04:29 PM »
Those symptoms can be caused by a lean mixture, from the ECU.  When
the engine is started, the coolant temperature detects a cold engine, and
adds a lot of enrichment.  That lets the engine run fine.  Then as it heats
up, the enrichment is removed, and it goes lean, or even dies. 

This is almost never the temp sensor, because if it fails (open circuit), the
engine will go to normal enrichment.  It COULD be caused by low fuel pressure,
caused by a dirty filter, bad pump, or bad pressure regulator (reg usually good). 
But the very common cause is a failing MAP sensor inside the ECU, or the circuit
driven by the MAP. 

You can run a test on your MAP.  Go to my PHOTOBUCKET, first sub album 70s
FUEL INJECTION, first picture.  This explains how to test a 78, 79; earlier years
don't bring the MAP out to that pin.  The 5th sub album 78 ECU SCHEMATIC
shows a schematic for your ECU. 

In general the ECU should put out an injector pulse width of 3 to 10 mill seconds
depending on manifold vacuum, when warm.  You may need to send your ECU
for repair, in any case it can be tested here for just the cost of transportation. 
I have shipped to Brazil, takes a while. 
good luck,
Bruce Roe    bcroe@juno.com   CLC # 14630

Offline Camillo Gornati

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  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2012, 06:12:48 PM »
HEY BRUCE!!!!

You fixed my ECU remember? Camillo FROM BRASIL!!!!

Anyway, there was no change to those sensors, and the ECU was fixed by the master!!!

I have a new that i purchased on ebay, should i change it?

I can also check for leaks on the vacuum line to the MAP?

Do you know if there is a coil inside the distributor that could be causing this?

What other options i have?

Thanks for the prompt reply, i forgot your nickname here, thats why i posted that way.
Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline Camillo Gornati

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  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2012, 06:19:12 PM »
Bruce we also have some disconnected plugs and cables, i will email them to the forum tomorrow or monday.

we also replaced the that small vacuum thermal sensor, which i forgot the name, the one with 3 vaccuum plugs, which goes to the distributor advance, mine was broken, and because of that there was some disconnected vacuum lines.

I dont think fuel pressure is the issue, because both fuel pumps are NEW from ROCKAUTO.COM, and they were measured there is a lot of pressure on the line, there is a "tire like" connector on the flute that goes on the fuel injectors, and when the car died i pressed there to check if there was pressure on the line, WHAT A MESS... anyway, and another point is that the car runs great when cold and even when hot, 10 minutes is nothing to cool down a 425 after 1 hour driving in heavy traffic.

Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline bcroe

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Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2012, 07:45:48 PM »
Gornati, I found my notes from 2010.  Fixed an ECU for you, which then ran
OK at the time.  Certainly get all your vacuum hoses replaced by now.  It doesn't
sound so much like ignition, but could be.  If you bought a another spare ECU for
your car (everyone with these cars needs a spare), now is the time to try it out. 
The Bendix # ought to be 161 2947, 161 2950, 161 4449, 161 4450, 161 5882,
or 161 6210.  You could use a 1977 ECU 161 1188, 161 1189, 161 1190, 161 1191,
161 1875, 161 1876, 161 1877, 161 1878, 1612079, or 161 2154. 

Is your email the same?  I'll send  message. 

And make sure the battery is charging OK, ECU needs the voltage to work.  You
said the battery went dead.  Bruce

Offline Camillo Gornati

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  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2012, 07:52:19 PM »
Bruce, there is no markings on the ECU there is a cadillac auto recycling 77-79 deville recon computer

590-04750

STK# RECON
LOC: EBAY

R00070239

is there any numbers inside?

Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline Camillo Gornati

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  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2012, 08:02:15 PM »
Gornati, I found my notes from 2010.  Fixed an ECU for you, which then ran
OK at the time.  Certainly get all your vacuum hoses replaced by now.  It doesn't
sound so much like ignition, but could be.  If you bought a another spare ECU for
your car (everyone with these cars needs a spare), now is the time to try it out. 
The Bendix # ought to be 161 2947, 161 2950, 161 4449, 161 4450, 161 5882,
or 161 6210.  You could use a 1977 ECU 161 1188, 161 1189, 161 1190, 161 1191,
161 1875, 161 1876, 161 1877, 161 1878, 1612079, or 161 2154. 

Is your email the same?  I'll send  message. 

And make sure the battery is charging OK, ECU needs the voltage to work.  You
said the battery went dead.  Bruce

Bruce, email is the same, now i got a little scared, it says in the note, came out of a 1977... ouch...

Anyway, what could happen if i put a 1977 ECU in a 1978 and they are not compatible? could something burn? will the car auto explode??? lol just kidding.
Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline bcroe

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Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #7 on: February 11, 2012, 09:19:13 PM »
Gornati, A 77 should be close enough.  Come to think of it, any ECU with
the right mounting brackets to fit your car, is likely from a 425 engine
car anyway.  Send me your email, here or to bcroe@juno.com     Bruce

Offline Camillo Gornati

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  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2012, 05:02:56 AM »
Gornati, A 77 should be close enough.  Come to think of it, any ECU with
the right mounting brackets to fit your car, is likely from a 425 engine
car anyway.  Send me your email, here or to bcroe@juno.com     Bruce

Email sent with a pic of the car.
Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline Scot Minesinger

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Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2012, 09:06:49 AM »
Hi,

My 1970 Cadillac is driven about 4,000 miles each year used three times a week during nice weather.  The big problem is poor quality parts.  Installed a new starter in 2010.  It made the exact same sounds as you describe on yours after only 4,000 miles and it had to be replaced in 2011.  Replaced it with rebuilt 1970 starter done at a local shop.  Same problems with alternator and other parts.  Rockauto tends to offer low cost parts and components often fail prematurely. 

Another problem is mechanics, they mess up and don't read the manual, they install three mounting bolts when four came with the car originally, and take other short cuts.  Even the mechanics with good reputations do this.  For example, last work done a few years ago was standard transmission service.  Transmission never leaked before, but it did right after the service.  Of course the last thing you think it would be is a failure to install the gasket on the pan correctly, but that is what it was.  They old gasket was never completely removed-just cutting corners, lazy and etc.  Discovered this on my own of course.  Granted I have enjoyed some success with some mechanics too, but not consistently.  There are some good mechanics out there, but I have yet to find one that I am 100% satisfied with.  I do all repairs possible myself now.

In your list, you did not say that the fuel lines were replaced, as they should be.  They should be replaced with original materials-no installing rubber all the way back.  Don't use splices in metal tubing either, use a continuous piece just like the factory did.  The spliced metal tubing might not leak, but often you can smell gas in a garage when car is off after it has just run.

Probably a good idea to have some gauges and sensors installed so you can monitor leanness mixture, fuel pressure, vacuum, and the like.  They can be installed in a hidden place.  Then you might be able to figure out what is going on.  Since you have chromed some suspension parts departing from original ( I have done some things like this too ), consider maybe converting to a simple carburetor and retaining all the parts so you could always convert back if you want to.

Good luck and stay with it, it will be worth it,

Scot
Fairfax Station, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

Offline Camillo Gornati

  • Posts: 41
  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2012, 11:53:50 AM »
Hi,

My 1970 Cadillac is driven about 4,000 miles each year used three times a week during nice weather.  The big problem is poor quality parts.  Installed a new starter in 2010.  It made the exact same sounds as you describe on yours after only 4,000 miles and it had to be replaced in 2011.  Replaced it with rebuilt 1970 starter done at a local shop.  Same problems with alternator and other parts.  Rockauto tends to offer low cost parts and components often fail prematurely. 

Another problem is mechanics, they mess up and don't read the manual, they install three mounting bolts when four came with the car originally, and take other short cuts.  Even the mechanics with good reputations do this.  For example, last work done a few years ago was standard transmission service.  Transmission never leaked before, but it did right after the service.  Of course the last thing you think it would be is a failure to install the gasket on the pan correctly, but that is what it was.  They old gasket was never completely removed-just cutting corners, lazy and etc.  Discovered this on my own of course.  Granted I have enjoyed some success with some mechanics too, but not consistently.  There are some good mechanics out there, but I have yet to find one that I am 100% satisfied with.  I do all repairs possible myself now.

In your list, you did not say that the fuel lines were replaced, as they should be.  They should be replaced with original materials-no installing rubber all the way back.  Don't use splices in metal tubing either, use a continuous piece just like the factory did.  The spliced metal tubing might not leak, but often you can smell gas in a garage when car is off after it has just run.

Probably a good idea to have some gauges and sensors installed so you can monitor leanness mixture, fuel pressure, vacuum, and the like.  They can be installed in a hidden place.  Then you might be able to figure out what is going on.  Since you have chromed some suspension parts departing from original ( I have done some things like this too ), consider maybe converting to a simple carburetor and retaining all the parts so you could always convert back if you want to.

Good luck and stay with it, it will be worth it,

Scot

Hey Scott, first let me thank you for your post.

Now, i got a very good mechanic, in Brasil we have just a V8 cars, and less mechanics who want to handle those, the new breed of mechanics here in Brasil we call a "PARTS CHANGER"... anyway.

Everytime i get parts from auto, as you already probably checked, i check for the diff in prices, as i also own a 1964 Impala SS, i got a water pump for it, and there is pumps from $17-250... i tend to get the more expensive, on bushings and ball joints i always go with the most expensive, on seals and gaskets always felpro and so on.

Fuel pressure has been measured and it is ok, today i checked the vacuum lines, all of them seems to be ok, one thing i didnt like it is that i noticed that the FAST IDLE VALVE have a small arm which activates and deactivates the microswitch, the little arm is stuck between the spring, leaving the microswitch always off.

today i will try to replace the ECU and how it goes.

Scot, i am totally against removing the ECU and go to a carb. as i am against removing the carb in my 64 SS and putting a Fuel injection.

here in the forum , BCROE agrees with me, regarding leaving the ECU, after i solve this small issue, it should run like a deer, i hope someone dont shoot it on the way...lol..

If someone, (BCROE) have the info on the right values for OIL PRESSURE, FUEL PRESSURE, VACUUM PRESSURE etc, i would definetelly put some gauges.

Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline Camillo Gornati

  • Posts: 41
  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #11 on: February 12, 2012, 02:17:46 PM »
Gornati, A 77 should be close enough.  Come to think of it, any ECU with
the right mounting brackets to fit your car, is likely from a 425 engine
car anyway.  Send me your email, here or to bcroe@juno.com     Bruce

Bruce, I didn't posted because I didn't think it was relevant, but when the car heats a little there is a constant noise coming from bellow the car.

After replacing the ecu for the new one, problems remain the same, so map and ecu are discarded.

I went down and found out the noise is the with idle, wot, and driving. So, what moving part In the car do the same noise no matter the speed and rpm?

FUEL PUMP.

the external fuel pump is making an awfull noise after it heats up... I think that my problem is right there.

What you all think?
Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline waterzap

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  • Name: Waldo Du Toit
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #12 on: February 12, 2012, 07:31:58 PM »
It could also be the fuel pump inside the tank. When that one goes bad, the external one has to work harder. I see they did replace the tank pump, did they also replace the little sock filter that is underneath the pump in the tank? If that is clogged, everything has to work harder. Just a thought.

My external fuel pump was also very loud. In the end the tank fuel pump was the problem, now they are both pretty quiet. I also read on a Fiero board that the evap canister can cause fuel pumps to have to work harder.  Here is the whole article.......

"Whenever a fuel pump fails, it is wise to do at least two other service procedures: (1) change the fuel filter (Haynes manual, p. 47), and (2) change the vapor recovery canister filter.
Most people know about the fuel line filter, but few know about the vapor recovery canister filter. Why should both filters be changed? Because both filters can cause the fuel pump to work harder than necessary, heat up, and fail prematurely. It is fairly obvious that if the fuel line filter is clogged, the fuel pump has to work harder to overcome the obstruction. But exactly what is the vapor recovery canister and how can it affect the fuel pump?"
The vapor recovery canister is a part of the fuel system that keeps gasoline vapors from escaping into the atmosphere when the engine is not running and is a required part of the Federal Clean Air Act. It is connected to the fuel tank, throttle body, intake manifold, and among other things, allows expansion and contraction of the gas vapor in the fuel tank to occur without releasing hydrocarbons into the atmosphere.
It performs this function by allowing air to pass freely through the canister while trapping hydrocarbon vapors, which are absorbed into activated charcoal granules in the canister when the engine is not running. When the engine is operating, air is drawn through the canister from the atmosphere, and hydrocarbon vapors are swept out of the activated charcoal and burned with the rest of the fue1. The amount of hydrocarbons burned in this manner is exceedingly small and does not affect the air to gasoline ratio.
The canister filter is found at the bottom of the canister and is needed to keep airborne dust and other particulate material out of the charcoal bed. If the filter becomes severely clogged, air cannot pass freely through the canister to the fuel tank. When the engine is running and gasoline is being pumped from the tank, an equal volume of air replaces the volume of gasoline leaving the tank, or else a slight vacuum would be produced in the fuel tank. If this happens, the fuel pump must work harder to overcome the vacuum. In a worst-case scenario, the fuel pump will not be able to overcome the vacuum and the engine will starve for gasoline and stop.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2012, 10:25:49 PM by waterzap »
Charlotte, NC
-1978 Eldorado Coupe

Offline Camillo Gornati

  • Posts: 41
  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #13 on: February 13, 2012, 03:17:40 AM »
It could also be the fuel pump inside the tank. When that one goes bad, the external one has to work harder. I see they did replace the tank pump, did they also replace the little sock filter that is underneath the pump in the tank? If that is clogged, everything has to work harder. Just a thought.

My external fuel pump was also very loud. In the end the tank fuel pump was the problem, now they are both pretty quiet. I also read on a Fiero board that the evap canister can cause fuel pumps to have to work harder.  Here is the whole article.......

"Whenever a fuel pump fails, it is wise to do at least two other service procedures: (1) change the fuel filter (Haynes manual, p. 47), and (2) change the vapor recovery canister filter.
Most people know about the fuel line filter, but few know about the vapor recovery canister filter. Why should both filters be changed? Because both filters can cause the fuel pump to work harder than necessary, heat up, and fail prematurely. It is fairly obvious that if the fuel line filter is clogged, the fuel pump has to work harder to overcome the obstruction. But exactly what is the vapor recovery canister and how can it affect the fuel pump?"
The vapor recovery canister is a part of the fuel system that keeps gasoline vapors from escaping into the atmosphere when the engine is not running and is a required part of the Federal Clean Air Act. It is connected to the fuel tank, throttle body, intake manifold, and among other things, allows expansion and contraction of the gas vapor in the fuel tank to occur without releasing hydrocarbons into the atmosphere.
It performs this function by allowing air to pass freely through the canister while trapping hydrocarbon vapors, which are absorbed into activated charcoal granules in the canister when the engine is not running. When the engine is operating, air is drawn through the canister from the atmosphere, and hydrocarbon vapors are swept out of the activated charcoal and burned with the rest of the fue1. The amount of hydrocarbons burned in this manner is exceedingly small and does not affect the air to gasoline ratio.
The canister filter is found at the bottom of the canister and is needed to keep airborne dust and other particulate material out of the charcoal bed. If the filter becomes severely clogged, air cannot pass freely through the canister to the fuel tank. When the engine is running and gasoline is being pumped from the tank, an equal volume of air replaces the volume of gasoline leaving the tank, or else a slight vacuum would be produced in the fuel tank. If this happens, the fuel pump must work harder to overcome the vacuum. In a worst-case scenario, the fuel pump will not be able to overcome the vacuum and the engine will starve for gasoline and stop.

Wow, great post!

I don't have room to do the tests and replaces right now, car is going back to the shop ASAP.

Thanks waterzap , this will be very helpfull
Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline mgbeda

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Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #14 on: February 13, 2012, 02:03:16 PM »
Re: the noisy starter.  I agree with Scot that it might be a bad, new starter.  But also those starters used shims "under" (actually over except you're underneath the car) the mounting bolts between the starter and the block.  If your mechanic didn't know to check the gear clearance and shim as necessary that could cause the noise.  Or if the car originally had shims but they were not put back.  Too little clearance makes for a bad noise and wears out the starter bearings.  Changing the starter might fix it but maybe only because the replacement starter measured closer to nominal and didn't need shims (though as I recall most of the difference was between different engines, not between different starters).  There's a detailed procedure for shimming the starter in the shop manual.

Also I've generally seen that when those cars get worked on people don't put back the flywheel cover.  That makes a difference in how loud the starter sounds.

-mB
-Mike Beda
CLC #24610
1976 Sedan DeVille (Bessie)

Offline Camillo Gornati

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  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #15 on: February 13, 2012, 02:35:59 PM »
Re: the noisy starter.  I agree with Scot that it might be a bad, new starter.  But also those starters used shims "under" (actually over except you're underneath the car) the mounting bolts between the starter and the block.  If your mechanic didn't know to check the gear clearance and shim as necessary that could cause the noise.  Or if the car originally had shims but they were not put back.  Too little clearance makes for a bad noise and wears out the starter bearings.  Changing the starter might fix it but maybe only because the replacement starter measured closer to nominal and didn't need shims (though as I recall most of the difference was between different engines, not between different starters).  There's a detailed procedure for shimming the starter in the shop manual.

Also I've generally seen that when those cars get worked on people don't put back the flywheel cover.  That makes a difference in how loud the starter sounds.

-mB

HI Mb, thanks for your post!!!

Im confident, my mechanic is very good, and i checked i have the flywheel cover on.

Since i purchased the car, starter make a big loud noise, and sometimes it run without engaging the engine, im sure it is the starter driver or drive, which sometimes the spring wont put the gear in place...

Anyway, the starter it is indeed a big problem, because sometimes i really have a hard time turning the engine on, but this is a easy fix already diagnosed, the shipping price of a simple drive or the whole starter, is bascially the same to Brasil, so, i think i will be getting a new whole starter.

My biggest issue, is the car dying when it drives fgor a while, i am in contact with BCROE over email, just not to flood the forum, but as soon as a solution is found, i will for sure post it here!!!

If anybody else have any pointers on those issues, i will for sure be glad to test and post results in here.

I will make a video of the starter and post it here today!

Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline "Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364

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Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #16 on: February 13, 2012, 03:34:38 PM »
Camillo,
If you still have a catylitic converter on your car I might suggest having that checked.  The noise and the poor performance are some of the symptoms of a plugged/collapsed Cat.
Greg Surfas
Cadillac Kid-Greg Surfas
CLC #15364
66 Coupe deVille (now gone to the UK)
72 Eldo Cpe
73 Coupe deVille
75 Coupe deElegance
76 Coupe deVille
514 inch motor now in '73-

Offline Camillo Gornati

  • Posts: 41
  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #17 on: February 13, 2012, 03:38:36 PM »
Camillo,
If you still have a catylitic converter on your car I might suggest having that checked.  The noise and the poor performance are some of the symptoms of a plugged/collapsed Cat.
Greg Surfas

Greg, i just made a video, is being uploaded right now to youtube... there no cat, car have a 2.5" with a flowmaster in the end, only....

Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline Camillo Gornati

  • Posts: 41
  • 78 coupe rockz
  • Name: C. Gornati
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #18 on: February 13, 2012, 03:50:13 PM »
Greg, i just made a video, is being uploaded right now to youtube... there no cat, car have a 2.5" with a flowmaster in the end, only....

here is the video..


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhL_ibqR3iI
Cgornati, proud owner of a 78 coupe deville and 64 Chevy impala SS

Offline The Tassie Devil(le)

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  • Name: Bruce Reynolds
Re: Problem with 78 Deville, EFI... Where are the pro's...
« Reply #19 on: February 13, 2012, 03:58:52 PM »
Sounds normal to me.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'55 Buick Special Post Coupe (LHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing RHH
(Past President Modified Chapter)

 



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