Rebuilding 1941 Ignition Switch w/ Armored Cable

[Paul Phillips]

I have seen several historical posts regarding this style switch.  Most seem to point to sending this out for rebuilding to replace the coil wire, but some imply that they have done this as well.  Since I have rebuild virtually everything else on this car encountered so far, I am inclined to tackle this one as well.  Wondering if anyone can share their wisdom of the 'tricks', before I bend the 3 tabs back on the switch body and just dive in.

Thanks!
Paul

[Doug Houston]

Ker-splash....glub, glub.

I've done it several times, though a few decades ago. Yes, you can install a new wire in the armor. It's tricky, but can be done. I'll try this from memory, so if I remember something wrong, don't pounce on me!!

Carefully bend the tabs out from the die cast portion of the switch. That will  break the actual switch away from the lock part. There will be a contact disc that has the switch contacts on it. I believe that it will be loose in the switch, and should be spring loaded. Set it aside. The part that you want to work with is set into the switch body, and must be removed. This is the tricky part.

The switch contact disc is bakelite, and is delicate, so proceed with care. There are three (?) dimples on the stamped body of the switch, that hold the switch contact piece in place. With care, the switch piece can be pushed out, using pressure on the two screw contacts on the bottom of the housing. The contact piece will come out, and once out, you'll see the solder lug that the wire is connected to. Snip off the terminal lug in the cap end of the armor, and pull it out of the armor.

You will now be able to replace the wire, and the new wire can be simply pushed into the armor. When I replaced those wires, I used some Teflon insulated #16 AWG wire, with a new terminal lug.   You're now ready to re-assemble. To re-crimp the tabs, I seem to recall using a pair of Channelock pliers, between the end of the switch assembly and the tabs.

If you have a radio in the car, find a new capacitor, of .1 Microfarad (Mfd), around 400-600 volt rating, and connect it from the coil terminal to the body of the coil. This is part of the radio interference suppression that you need on these cars.

I suppose you know that the little four digit number on the body of the ignition switch is the key code.

[Steve Passmore]

Doug's memory is still good, I did the switch on my 36 Fleetwood only last week, only difference being the Bakelite contact disc was seized in and pressure on the two screw contacts push it out on an angle, it then met the resistance of the dimples he speaks of and broke into little pieces, Luckily I had the body of another switch and ground the dimples off from the outside allowing the disc to come out.
There seems no way to get even pressure on that thing and as he said, its very delicate.

[Tom Beaver]

When I did it, I used a drill which just matched the OD of the dimples and carefully drilled them out.  The bakelite disk then just slides out.  When I reassembled the disk I used some metallic epoxy, which is quite thick, and can be squeegeed down to fill the depression in the bakelite where the dimple was as well as the hole in the metal case.  When it hardens it acts like a quasi pin and the bakelite disk seems to be quite secure.

Tom Beaver

[Paul Phillips]

Many thanks to all 3 of you gents, this is very good info and encouraging that I will be successful in the wire replacement.  Another testimony to the depth of knowledge on this forum!

Paul

[KD]

Paul,
I just sent mine to Martin Watkins, He had a devil of a time getting mine out. He charges $160.00 his phone is 215 355-1519
KD CLC#26801

[kkarrer]

I "operated" on mine as well, but along with replacing the wire I wanted to replace the coil with a 12v model since I converted the car to 12v - ground.  Let me know if you need any info on that.  So far no one who has seen the car or the pictures of the firewall can tell that the conversion was done.  I know that as a last resort you can also cut that shielded cable, repair the wire, and tack weld the steel cable.  A little "body work" some grinding and some paint will cover the repair.  I've also seen those assemblys for sale on e-bay twice this year.  Around $150 was what they went for I think.
Ken Karrer 1941 6227D coupe

[Fred Zwicker #23106]

When I did it, I used a drill which just matched the OD of the dimples and carefully drilled them out.  The bakelite disk then just slides out.  When I reassembled the disk I used some metallic epoxy, which is quite thick, and can be squeegeed down to fill the depression in the bakelite where the dimple was as well as the hole in the metal case.  When it hardens it acts like a quasi pin and the bakelite disk seems to be quite secure.

Tom Beaver

Good hint - Thanks!
For my 1940 Cadillac 4 Dr. convertible, using your method of drilling out the dimples, I was able to install a new wire and reassembled everything, also filling the 3 drilled dimple holes with thick epoxy.  I sanded down everything and painted the ends. Everything looks real good and should be ready to install in a few weeks when we get the car into our shop.  I will say that this is not an easy project and requires extreme care so that the epoxy part is not broken.  I also carefully cleaned the brass flat points and the brass triangle shaped part that turns to allow the car to start.  I also noticed that the two small machine screws are different size - the terminal marked BATTERY is a larger screw than the smaller one marked GAS GAGE.   The above assembly was in the trunk from the previous owner, as the ignition switch was not working, even though the key turned and is now working perfectly.  Hoping for some good luck in completing this soon.  Pictures attached of the finished product and the car

Fred