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72 Eldo has "weak" power window motors

Started by abriddell, November 30, 2013, 09:34:56 AM

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abriddell

Hello All,

The power windows in my 72 Eldo doors are VERY slow to go up and down.  Also, the convertible top needs a little help to return to the closed position - a gentle boost by hand to get it past the 1/4 up position. 

The battery is rated at 850 CCA/1020 CA and about a year old.

Does anyone have any suggestions?  Are there some parts in the window/door mechanisms that I may need to lubricate?

Thanks,
Andrew Briddell
Andrew Briddell
1972 Eldorado Convertible

TJ Hopland

Do they act the same with the engine running and not running?
73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI, over 30 years of ownership and counting
Somewhat recently deceased daily drivers, 80 Eldo Diesel & 90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

76eldo

The tracks and other parts on the window lift assemblies will work 100 % better with some white lithium grease on the parts that slide.  If nothing has been apart on the car chances are that the original grease is hard, and useless at this point.

Makes a huge difference.

The top should be raised and lowered when the car is running.  It drams a lot of amps and when the alternator is spinning it helps a lot.  The system in your 72 is all electric, but there are lubricating points on that as well.

Brian
Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

abriddell

Thanks.

They run the same regardless of whether or not the engine is running. I'll try the lithium grease. That sounds promising. Probably hasn't been done in a LONG time. 

Andrew
Andrew Briddell
1972 Eldorado Convertible

The Tassie Devil(le)

I would also check on the condition of the Grounding cables.

When you operate the top, feel with your fingers, the possible rise in temperature of the battery cables.   If they do heat up, clean the terminals, at both ends.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

cadillactim

If regreasing doesn't help, the motors probably need replaced.  Dried grease causes more strain on the motors.  There's grease in the rollers, and the window motor gears.  The extra strain causes carbon buildup on the armature, which reduces the motor's power.  The halfway position is where most strain is on the window motor, and that's why the windows stop there.  Once the excessive carbon buildup is on the armature, the motor needs repaired.

Tim
Tim Groves

abriddell

Interesting you mentioned a rise in temp. I feel that happening a little bit at the driver door power window switch - especially with the driver window, which is the most stubborn to operate.

I tried the lithium grease on the driver door window mechanism but it didn't appear to help.
Andrew Briddell
1972 Eldorado Convertible

joeceretti

It could be as simple as corrosion in the connectors to the switch. This could make the switches feel warm. If the connection has extra resistance it will heat up at the points of resistance and will cause less power to make it's way to the motors. Same as the reason the battery cables will heat up when the terminals are corroded.

It's more likely a little bit of everything, dirty armature, dirty connections, old grease... dealing with all the issues is the only way to have them perform as new. Determining which issues are causing the most degradation in performance is the hardest part of all of it.

Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373

It is probably either the switch or old grease.  I noticed when I replaced mine that the nylon gear on the motor itself had very old grease behind it.  Pull the motor and the gear that turns actually comes out if you turn it over and tap it.  The round nylon gear comes out and you will find very old grease in there.  Clean it out and regrease it and I bet it will work much better.  Also, I had switch issues.  I had to take the switch apart and clean the terminals to make it work better.  Before you take the switch apart however, take it out of the door while it is still hooked up.  Use a voltmeter and find the power wire that comes out of the lockout switch.  I think it is pink and thick if I remember correctly. Take a jumper wire and run it from that good power lead and jump it to the wires for the window that is slow.  If the motor runs better with the jumper than with the switch itself then you have restistance in the switch. 
Mine is a 70 Deville but I think they work the same.
Jeff
Jeff Rosansky
CLC #28373
1970 Coupe DeVille (Big Red)
1955 Series 62 (Baby Blue)
Dad's new 1979 Coupe DeVille

Glen

Jeff is right on about the motor.  It is difficult to get out but it makes a world of difference when you clean and grease the worm drive in the motor. 

Also check all the electrical connections, in the switch, at the fuse block, on the motor and make sure the motor has a clean ground connection. 
Glen Houlton CLC #727 
CLCMRC benefactor #104