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1967 Fleetwood Alternator

Started by JVA, January 26, 2014, 08:30:26 PM

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JVA

Anyone happen to know if this alternator is stock or not?





I am guessing not since it has a second groove for another belt. Given that it's not, any guess on where it might have come from, or what it's output might be? Maybe a common swap?

Much thanks.

Alan Harris CLC#1513

A Delco alternator should have a model number stamped on the top of the case. Somebody could probably identify it by that number.

I also think that these Delcotrons (remember that word?) used to have the output stamped on them near the model #. They used to be labeled "55A" or "63A" for output amps.


35-709

That wiring looks scary!  Little wonder it continues to run when you shut the ignition switch off.  I would be going over the wire routing with shop manual in hand, definitely not right from what little I can see.  Also, while it might work, the ground wire too is very much in the wrong place!
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

JVA

The wiring in the car is actually in really good shape, I just pulled the wiring from the alternator to voltage regulator out so I could verify it was intact and went where I thought it did. The two dangly wires you see hanging out are from the AC compressor, which was replaced prior to me taking ownership and is not stock (though it fits well). I didn't bother to reconnect the wiring when I put the intake manifold back on since the AC doesn't work anyway... AC is a project for a future time. ;)

The ground wires are actually from a Saab 900, and that's as far as it would reach. ;) It does the job more than fine - it isn't pretty, but it works perfectly. When I redo the battery wiring to accommodate the second battery, I'll redo the grounds as well. That's why I was trying to learn a little about the alternator situation... some groundwork for these future plans. ;)

I'll check for labels on the alternator, but it looks like it's been there a while... I don't think there are any legible labels left on it.

Alan Harris CLC#1513

These numbers were stamped into the case, not on paper labels. It is possible that you have the correct alternator with a newer pulley. Rebuilders do things like that

JVA

Totally possible!

It seems the only alternator GM ever made with an external voltage regularly was the 10DN, and that alternator came in a couple varying amp ratings. I'm not sure which I have, but I guess it doesn't matter all that much. It's a 10DN with an external regulator, so it's close enough to OE. I'm going to jettison it and replace it with a 105a CS130 - and hope the single drive belt is enough to turn it. ;) That will clean up some wiring, rid me of the external VR, and give me a better base for my electrical system anyway.

Thanks all!

Scot Minesinger

Agree with other posts, the two groove pulley on alternator means it is not likely to be stock.  The blue ground cable is not how the factory wired the car, and it is not good practice to make a ground from a bolt that is used for tightening belt tension.  However, the blue cable should function properly - there are a half a dozen other grounds in this area, why not use one of them (not an exhaust manifold bolt)?  The cable from alt to battery is much larger than factory, and again no functional issue there, as it is really better as it is now. 
Fairfax Station, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

Glen

According to the Delco-Remy application index the 67 Cadillac used the 43 Amp alternator 1100691, but if the car had A/C then it used 55 Amp 1100760 except Eldorado which used 1100774.  If the car had A/C seat heaters and two way radio it used the 63 Amp 1100787 or 1100790. 

Regulators are 1119519 except for the 63 Amp alternators which used the 1119519

I know, more than you wanted to know. 
Glen Houlton CLC #727 
CLCMRC benefactor #104

JVA

Quote from: Scot Minesinger on January 27, 2014, 11:14:56 PMThe blue ground cable is not how the factory wired the car, and it is not good practice to make a ground from a bolt that is used for tightening belt tension.  However, the blue cable should function properly - there are a half a dozen other grounds in this area, why not use one of them (not an exhaust manifold bolt)?

The ground cable is from a Saab 900, a cable I had sitting in a box. I just needed a reliable ground cable for testing, getting the car started. It's not permanent, just a free part that did the job for the time being.

Quote from: Glen on January 27, 2014, 11:53:33 PMI know, more than you wanted to know.

Nope, I am always happy to know more. The car is a 75 with AC, but no heated seats or two-way. Looks like it should be a 55a! Thanks!

cadillacmike68

If it is a Fleetwood Series 75 9 passenger Sedan or Limousine then it needs the 63 amp alternator.
Regards,
"Cadillac" Mike

JVA

Well, it's getting a 105a CS130 from a 1992 Buick Century, so I should be covered! :) Thanks!

JVA

#11
Does anyone happen to know where, physically, the resistor in the factory charging circuit is located?

The wiring diagrams show it's between the bulkhead connector and the fuse panel "in" a brown & white wire, but that wire travels through about three feet of bound-up harness. I'd rather not dissect the whole thing if I don't have to. I'm *guessing* it's a resistor wire like the coil wire is, in which case getting it out of there isn't really feasible, but hope springs eternal. :) What is visible at the fuse panel end and at the bulkhead connector end does not appear to be resistor wire, so it's in the middle somewhere... but where (approximately)? :)

Thanks!

Scot Minesinger

There is a newer post where a person is asking about the 67 Eldorado where it shows a dual grove alternator pulley due to a small amount of wrap on the belt positioning.  This is likely not an original alternator but it could be from a 67 Eldorado.
Fairfax Station, VA  22039 (Washington DC Sub)
1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible
1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty

JVA


JVA

Hi all -

I am about to dredge up a bunch of my old posts so that I can answer my own questions. I hate when I'm searching for something on the internet and someone has my exact same problem but never follows up with an answer!

The answer to:

Does anyone happen to know where, physically, the resistor in the factory charging circuit is located?

Is:

It's actually a resistor wire that splits off at the firewall connector inside the car, loops along the bottom of the glovebox, travels back at the base of the dash kickpanel, and terminates at the fusebox. I would have expected the alternator resistor wire to look like other resistor wire (eg, the ignition coil) but it doesn't. Just an unassuming brown/white stripe wire.

It's been a long off & on battle with this car, but I am getting near the end... finally! My car was not shutting down as a result of this wire. Maybe insufficient resistance for the CS130 alternator or maybe a failure in the wire somewhere - *possibly* a failure in the ignition switch... more on that later. Cutting the wire restored proper functionality to my GEN light and now the ignition switch works as intended.... like, it shuts down the car. The critical clue for me was during some other rewiring when I noticed the GEN light was on while *totally disconnected* from the alternator. That means it was getting power through the ignition switch, but being grounded inside the car somewhere!

I mention the ignition switch because I was able to observe a scenario where the switched power (brown) and switched ignition (pink) wires off the ignition switch remain bridged together when the ignition is turned off. They both disconnect from the battery, but not from each other. I am 100% confident my failure was:

1. Backfeed from the alternator
2. Across the resistor wire into the fusebox
3. From the fusebox, up the brown switched wire to the ignition switch
4. From the ignition switch to the pink wire
5. From the pink wire to the heavy-duty (60a) relay controlling my coil and Pertronix

Kill the resistor wire, fix the problem. I could have also investigated replacing the ignition switch, but inexplicably '65-'69 ignition switches are about the only Cadillac ignition switches not in reproduction. My options were used or a $300 NOS part that's been on ebay for months. :(

Tangentially related, some of you may be relieved to know I am no longer using the battery ground cable from a Saab.



I have 1ga (+) wire out to the starter, and 1ga (-) wire down to the block. You may notice a second 1ga (+), that goes to a second battery on the driver's side. :)