Recent posts

#1

General Discussion / Re: Trying to post pictures

Last post by J. Gomez - Today at 02:02:15 PM

Rick,

If you are on a PC (sorry I do not use my cell for posting or reply) you can only attach files when you hit the "REPLY", if you use the "QUOTE" option it does not give you the option for attachment and once the file is uploaded you "MUST" click on the "UPLOAD.

Another caveat with the new forum feature..! 

#2

General Discussion / Re: Trying to post pictures

Last post by Clewisiii - Today at 01:55:47 PM

Honestly I think whoever designed the user functions of this new forum road the shortbus in school.  Whenever you design a system you must have users test it and understand how they are trying to use the feature.  How the designer intended for a feature to be used is irrelevant

#3

General Discussion / Re: Trying to post pictures

Last post by Clewisiii - Today at 01:53:50 PM

And this site seems to freeze up a lot when scrolling. 

#4

General Discussion / Re: Trying to post pictures

Last post by Clewisiii - Today at 01:52:40 PM

Some systems takes a few times of hitting it.  When I was uploading files my phone at first did not recognize that I was hitting a clickable button and was only highlighting Upload.   

#5

Want To Buy - Parts / Re: Wanted : Parts for a 1928 ...

Last post by yachtflame - Today at 01:51:02 PM

When you say plate over the carb, do you mean the round plate screwed into the top of the carburetor? If it's 1928, it should only have 4 screws holding it. I may have some of those cast in bronze as the pot metal originals corroded badly.
 You can contact me directly at
yachtflame@yahoo.com

#6

General Discussion / Re: Trying to post pictures

Last post by Cadman-iac - Today at 01:44:57 PM

Well, I get to the "add files" option and it highlights when I select it, but nothing happens afterwards. Where am I going wrong here?

#7

General Discussion / Re: Trying to post pictures

Last post by Cadman-iac - Today at 01:39:25 PM

  Ok!!
 Thank you for the explanation and pictures. Hopefully I can get this to work for me now, if I can remember all the steps.
 Wish me luck!

#8

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1968 Eldorado 472 oil pan ...

Last post by shadetree39 - Today at 01:17:57 PM

Re: the freeze plugs. My local independent auto store has a huge Dorman supply and he typically sells the the plugs .015 (1/64") oversize for example; the 9/16 opening for A.I.R. in the heads would take a 37/64 plug.
Had to drive them in.

#9

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1970 flooding issue?

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 01:04:53 PM

Leaking plugs or a float issue really don't fit his symptoms.  He says it starts fine then after a few moments loads up.  Then once it gets past that its fine. 

Leaking plugs cause a starting issue and you usually eventually get a rough start but after a moment it cleans up and then is fine, pretty much opposite what he says is happening.

On the float front unless he has an electric pump its not going to leak while the engine isn't running and even if it did it would tend to cause starting issues.  Electric or mech pump and a float issue would likely continue to be a problem at a warm idle which he says isn't the case.

The choke pull off really fits his symptoms.  Engine will fire with the choke completely shut but if it doesn't slightly open as the engine starts it can't get enough air.  The reason it eventually cleans up is the thermal action eventually starts to open it so that is why at some point things go back to normal   

#10

General Discussion / Re: Way too long overdue upgra...

Last post by Cadman-iac - Today at 01:02:29 PM

Rick,

Since I did all of the hardness re-wire on my car I've also upgraded to a larger gauge wire for all of the long run power sources, so the main +12V "red" wire for the windows hardness is 12 gauge up to the switches versus the old 14 gauge.

Since I recondition all of the motors and the windows channels were also redone these were not an issue, the switches were finicky even after recondition them as well. Sometime they worked fine other times I had to apply a bit of pressure as the motor were a bit slow, but jumping the connector(s) the motor and windows were fine.

Well I'm impartial on were these are manufacture as long as they are functional, I tend to go a bit higher in the rating just to be in the safe side, just in case a 30A on their side is actually 20A on our side.
Even if a product is advertised as "Made in the USA" one has to read the fine print to notice package here but made in some other place. 

Increasing the size of wire for the windows is a good idea. I don't remember if I had done that when I made my new harness, I'd have to dig it out and check it out again to know for sure.
  I have already gone through the window motors, and replaced the wiring from the windings to the connector. The windings themselves were fine.
  The glass channels will also be replaced when I get that far.
I think my window switches are in good shape after going through them. I had two different designs, and I'm guessing that it's due to a first and second design. I picked the one that looked more reliable and went through all of them. And I still have the other set as backup if necessary.

  Yes you must read the package. Some sorry SOB decided that to make a buck they could slap a flag on it and claim that it was made here, with "from foreign and domestic parts" in fine print. And the percentage of US made content only had to be something like 30%. Disgusting and should be illegal!! But hey, what do I know!!

  Rick