'54 Cadillac Convertible Top Raising with no key

[Lou]

Hi all, (Pardon my stupidity, I mistakenly initially put this in the "buy/sell" section)

New guy here, just acquired a Model 62 convertible, 1954 vintage.  This car is the real McCoy "barnfind" except it was actually just a crowded, little garage it has been locked up in since 1968.  It is in very good shape with no rust to speak of except for the usual battery tray and exhaust bumperettes problems.

The car is complete and there is no visible reason that I can find as to why it was parked and not driven since then.  The first issue that I want to tackle is to get the top raised.  I was going to put in a battery and try to raise it but the previous owner lost the keys.  I imagine that you need to be in the accessory or on position to actuate the top, right?  I am waiting on some key blanks to come so that I can get a locksmith to make me some new keys.  Is it possible to get a key code matched to my vin that someone might have to make a set?  Is there a way to "hot wire" the top mechanism to raise it?

Also, what precautions should be taken to raise the top that has been stored down for so long?  Any tips and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.  Lou

[76eldo]

Lou,

STOP............DON'T do anything yet.

I am not an expert on 54's, but have owned a lot of convertibles, and your car may be similar to my 48 Packard.

First of all, the top being down for a long time is a bad thing.  You can't get to the mechanism/motor/etc. because the top is covering them.

What I would suggest is to try to disconnect the tops of the hydraulic cylinders from the top frame, which will let you try to raise the top manually.  By doing this, the lift cylinders and pump are untouched by the movement of the top.  Once you get it up, you can be in a better position to evaluate what you have, what is good, and what you need to replace.

If the car has been parked for 40 years, the hinged points on the top frame are going to be dry and stuck.  The pistons and cylinders will have goo in them instead of fluid, and same with the top motor and fluid reservoir.  If you throw a battery in there and try to raise the top, you will fry something, and also if you are lucky enough to get the top to start coming up, the dry seals in the top cylinders will tear apart.

That's what NOT to do.

Here's what you may want to do:

1.  Disconnect the cylinders from the top frame.

2.  Look for whatever pivot points you can see and dribble some penetrating oil on them.  If the top fabric is still good (doubtful) avoid getting oil on it.

3.  The fluid left in the system MAY be dot3 brake fluid, which was common back then, so keep that away from the paint.

These are general tips, not specific to 54 Cadillac.  I am sure that someone here will add to this.

I revived a 1948 Packard Custom 8 convertible that was parked since the 70's, and had to do the following with regard to the top:

1.  Had the underhood pump rebuilt by hydro-electric in Florida www.hydroe.com

2.  Replaced leaking cylinders with new ones from Hydro-electric

3.  Had top material replaced locally with proper Haartz canvas

I thought changing the system over from brake fluid to ATF or silicon fluid would be a good idea.  Hydro-electric told me that they would not warranty the cylinders or pump unless DOT 3 brake fluid was put in the system.  The also stated that the huses in the car were rubber hoses with a high cotton content, and that ATF would ruin them from the inside out.  These hoses are subject to a lot of pressure.

On the Packard, the pump also worked the power windows and seat, which all had hydraulic cylinders.  They were all bad, and I replaced them all, and it was probably one of the hardest automotive jobs I ever did.

You have a great car there.  Take it slow, and you will not have to fix things twice.  There is a lot of expertise here on the board, so hopefully someone with a similar Cadillac will jump in to help you.

Good Luck,

Brian

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

Hi there,
I got keys [for my 54 CDV]cut by Jessers Classic Key to the codes on the barrels - the doors and the ignition are the same [hexagon head Briggs and Stratton key] and the glove box and trunk are the same [round head]. A local old established locksmith should be able to cut to codes and will probably be a lot cheaper than Jessers - I found such an outfit in Houston Texas earlier this year , I think the keys were about $3 each on the original style keys.
Good luck,
Phil

[Charles]

I was getting ready to ask a VERY similar question. I just picked up a 1951 Cadillac Convertible that was parked for 30 years. I wanted to know how I could lower the top. The motor is apart, and the pump in th.e trunk is missing. I was thinking about disconnecting the Hydraulic rams so I could manually raise/lower it

I'll have to give this a try.

BTW: is there a way to convert the top to electric, rather than Hydraulic? (yes, I know its not "original")

[76eldo]

If you change every line and hose, you could run it with a pump and ATF, like the later cars.

My 60 took DOT 3, but later ones take ATF.

The only "electric" ones are the 71-76 scissors tops that had relays, and electric motor, and gear boxes and cables.  It would be crazy to try to change to that.

The original system, in proper working order will be fine.

Brian

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Charles,

Those hydraulic top actuation rams and pump worked beautifully when new, and no reason why they won't work if properly reconditioned.

Trying to convert the system to Electric will mean some huge expense to create the actuating motors, and probably not worth it.

Actually, the system of a Central Pump with two Rams is simple, efficient, and works.

Bruce.

[Charles]

G'day Charles,

Those hydraulic top actuation rams and pump worked beautifully when new, and no reason why they won't work if properly reconditioned.

Trying to convert the system to Electric will mean some huge expense to create the actuating motors, and probably not worth it.

Actually, the system of a Central Pump with two Rams is simple, efficient, and works.

Bruce.

It was just a thought. Currently, there is no pump in the trunk (that rhymed, didn't it?), and I don't plan on the the 331 remaining under the hood either. The Hydraulic system also controls the windows and seats, but the windows are going electric, and the interior is getting completely re-done with Buckets. So obviously I am going to have to think this whole issue out and come up with ideas...

[jaxops]

As was stated earlier, hydro-e-lectric is a great resource for convertible parts.  I replaced my cylinders and hoses on my 70 Electra, and my wife and I installed and bled the system.  It took a while, but listen to the Hydro-E-Lectric guys' advice and read the instructions on the system before you start the top motor.  I was lucky in that my top motor was good but I had to replace the switch on the dash which burned up from trying to run the top too long when they hydraulics were not working.   My top has been working quietly and smoothly for the last 9 years.  Charles- you may find a top motor at USA PArts online in W. Va or other Cadillac parts.  I don't know if Hydro-E-Lectric has them.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I am not completely familiar with the hydraulics of the '53, but if the actual mechanism, and anchor points are in the same position as the Chevrolet Convertibles of the same era, then it should be pretty simple to retrofit the Chevrolet pump. hoses and rams and the wiring to the car.

The '55 Chev I had was simple, and I even rebuilt it way down here, in the place of very few Factory Convertibles after 1939.   My '55 was the only '55 Chev Convert in Australia for many years whilst I owned it.

Bruce.

[Lou]

All, thanks for the info.  Special thanks for pointing out that brake fluid was used as the hydraulic medium.  I would hate to spill that stuff on the paint.  Where are the hydraulic actuators accessible from, the trunk or the interior side quarter panels?  Is there a particularly good parts and service manual available for the '50's Cads?

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

The 1954 Shop Manual is available as a reprint cheaply and is also available on a cd . The parts manual has good illustrations in it but does cover a lot of years. Look on Ebay.
Phil

[76eldo]

Once again, this is generic info, I never owned or restored a 54 Cadillac, but the hudraulic pistons should be located in the rear quarter area.  If you can remove some of the interior parts on the back seat side panel areas you should see them.  If the top is down, you may be able to locate the upper ends of the cylinders and see where they are attached to the top frame.

Brian

[Bob Hoffmann CLC#96]

Brian's got the right idea. I'll add this. Remove both rear seat cushions. Then remove both rear trim panels. Then... you will be able to see where the rams are attached to the top assy.  Remove the attaching hardware. You are ready to raise the top. I would suggest 2 men, one on either side. Once you get the top approaching the header, STOP. The top will be shrunk & may require days to be able to lock it. Hot weather helps. In the sun is best. Good luck, Bob

[Lou]

Wow, I can't thank you guys enough for the info and especially the pic (worth thousands of words!).  Have a great 4th.  Lou