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1966 deville convertible

Started by spolij, December 25, 2018, 12:18:06 PM

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spolij

So here's an update. The interior is just about done dying it all black having a lot of trouble with the timing on the engine seems like I get it running, runs good for a while then it won't start backfires from the carburetor, readjust the timing, runs good for a while starts backfiring over and over and over. So I don't feel like dealing with the timing chain and I'm sending it to my mechanic, let him take care of it. Hopefully it's a distributor LOL

spolij

Well the car goes to the mechanic next week. I've got a feeling this is gonna hurt.

spolij

Got the car ready to move last night almost brought a tear to my eye LOL. The mechanic I use is very good and quick. Hopefully I'll have it back by Thursday. Can't wait, it's been off the road for a month or so now. Once I get the top fully installed I'll be on the road again. There are still a lot of small things to fix like the climate control, cruise control etc. but I'll get there. Early summer and I'll start repainting and the car will then be triple black.

rajeevx7

What degree btdc are you setting timing at idle? Are you capping the vac advance hose off after disconnecting it? You sure the 1/2” lockdown nut is tight, and not stripped/loose?

I know the feeling of just letting a mechanic take over and wash your hands of the whole mess...going through it right now myself on another thing.

spolij

rajeevx7 At idle it's 5 degrees. The nut is tight. No i did not cap the vacuum advance hose. I'll try that next. Thanks.

rajeevx7

I know it sounds goofy, and I DO NOT KNOW WHY, but I couldn’t get my 429 started at 5btdc the latest time I removed the dizzy. I moved it to about 10-11 and then fine tuned it to 13-15 btdc at idle. This was after checking for tdc on the compression stroke for 1billion attempts and lining #1 up with #1 piston. 

Yes, remove the vac line to the advance actuator and cap the line/intake side.

spolij

rajeevx7 I got it started. I realize that I had advanced the timing so many times to no avail. So I retarded the distributor about an inch started right up still needs a little fine-tuning. I had it on the road for a few minutes and it runs pretty good just has a little hesitation on acceleration. I forgot what you said about capping the line to the vacuum advance unit.
What you think of these tachometers that use some kind a laser light don't have to be wired to the engine?

rajeevx7

Glad to hear! You MUST get a timing light! Mine runs well at 13-15 btdc after it would not start at what I thought was 5btdc.

I have an old Honda motorcycle with an upgraded tach. It gets its signal from a wire I have wrapped around a spark plug wire. (Or something like that...it’s been awhile ;) Seems to read 99.9% accurate, just never tested it against another meter.

spolij

 :-[ :-\ :'(So about six hours later tried to start the car turned over but it misfired through the carburetor again. The timing was set at 5°. Tomorrow I'll give the timing one more shot if not, it's off to the mechanic.

spolij

This morning made some adjustments. Running decent.  3 hours later, back fire again.
Road trip tomorrow.

spolij

So the lady is home.After all that it was a bad part in choke so he fixed that readjusted, the mechanic said he found two massive leaks in the vacuum system. I could've sworn I checked all the main vacuum lines I had plenty of pressure according to the book.
At any rate it's running I'm happy. Now I can move on to finish installing the top.
Next month I may get two new tires and the next month the other two.

Bentley

John,

Glad to hear your car is running again. Tracking down a vacuum leak isn't easy â€" lots of places to check. As Savemy67 said, your car has 87 feet of vacuum lines.
Wes Bentley
CLC # 30183

spolij

Hey Bentley   I can't believe I could've missed it. He said to massive leaks. I put the vacuum gauge to almost every line I found and everything was fine. Maybe I disconnected something while I was looking or adjusting. I'll know better next time. Hopefully there is no  next time LOL.
I took it out and drove it three times since I got her back this morning, just to make sure.

spolij

#33
Okay back to the same old crap... Car home was running pretty good..  Three hours later started It up the high idle was probably about 1200 running rough weighted till some heat buildup goosed it came down to a very low idle barely running.The choke was set totally closed I mean the plate was against the housing.
Will have a talk with the mechanic in the morning.

spolij

Okay so I bring the lady back to the mechanic. Keeps it for a day. He calls me and says he did the best he could and it's running okay. The bill was $51 and that's when I got nervous. Drove it home, it ran terrible. I popped the hood, looked around looked around for a half-hour and finally noticed that they didn't connect the PCV valve. I put the valve in but I had to cap off the hose because I can't find an original hose. Three taps on the gas started right up went to high idle warmed up and went to low idle put it into gear went in with out smashing into gear. Took it for a ride it was okay a little sluggish but drove well.
Now on to installing the top.

By the way does anyone know where to get OEM PCV hose?

MaR

Quote from: spolij on March 04, 2019, 07:55:37 PM
Okay so I bring the lady back to the mechanic. Keeps it for a day. He calls me and says he did the best he could and it's running okay. The bill was $51 and that's when I got nervous. Drove it home, it ran terrible. I popped the hood, looked around looked around for a half-hour and finally noticed that they didn't connect the PCV valve. I put the valve in but I had to cap off the hose because I can't find an original hose. Three taps on the gas started right up went to high idle warmed up and went to low idle put it into gear went in with out smashing into gear. Took it for a ride it was okay a little sluggish but drove well.
Now on to installing the top.

By the way does anyone know where to get OEM PCV hose?
Is it the one with a 90° bend molded in?

spolij

#36
MaR
Yes it is, one end goes under the intake manifold and the end of that is swedged (larger than the rest of the tubing), the other end comes up over the front of the manifold and into the carburetor plate to the PCV valve.
There is one that keeps coming up on the net, but they say it won't fit it looks just like mine but it has this molded fitting I guess you'd say at the end.
There is this unit that comes out of the rear of the Valley pan, which i cant get out, it's not in the manuel, with a pipe connected to it that runs  under the intake manifold, towards the front of the engine and that's where the tubing plugs onto. You  can't see that end as it is under the manifold.
I can't believe this tubing is so strong the rubber is very thick maybe an 1/8" thick and has a steel wire running through it. I mean come it's a vacume line. Attached are pictures.

hornetball

You better check your timing chain for play.  If it slips enough, your valves will smash into your pistons and then it's complete rebuild time.  Not worth it.

Easy to check.  Put a socket on the crank bolt and turn both directions while watching how long it takes your distributor rotor to start moving.

James Landi

While you're checking for a sluggish running engine, try connecting a piece of 1/8 rubber hose to your distributor's vacuum advance and sucking on the hose.  It should NOT leak air.  The diaphragms on these advance pods will leak vacuum because the vacuum chamber ruptures on so many cars, and these vacuum advance devices  are rarely EVER checked and thus rarely changed, and the result is a rough running idle, less than efficient gas mileage, and a sluggish running engine under load. They are relatively easy to replace, and if leaking, a new one will make you think you purchased a new engine.   Another culprit for leaking intake vacuum is the metal vacuum reserve can that's mounted on your firewall.  Over the years, these tin cans develop fractures, and here again, will create a rough idle.  Hope these suggestions are NOT new to you.   Happy day,    James

spolij

hornetball  The timing chain is about a year old but I did check it again the way you mentioned thanks .

James I usually pull the vacuum line from the vacuum advance and if it changes the engine speed I call it good. But I'll try your suggestion. I know the part your talking about that vacuum storage tank but I don't know how to check and see if it's working or not. Once I tried putting it under water and blowing compressed air into it and nothing happened. How would you check it?