News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

1966 deville convertible

Started by spolij, December 25, 2018, 12:18:06 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

hornetball

Quote from: spolij on February 12, 2019, 07:35:11 AMSo I don't feel like dealing with the timing chain and I'm sending it to my mechanic, let him take care of it.

I saw this and didn't see another mention of timing chain replacement.  So I assumed you still had the original.  Sorry.

James Landi



Re: 1966 deville convertible
« Reply #39 on: Yesterday at 07:27:08 PM »
Quote
hornetball  The timing chain is about a year old but I did check it again the way you mentioned thanks .

James I usually pull the vacuum line from the vacuum advance and if it changes the engine speed I call it good. But I'll try your suggestion. I know the part your talking about that vacuum storage tank but I don't know how to check and see if it's working or not. Once I tried putting it under water and blowing compressed air into it and nothing happened. How would you check it?"

John,  I think you've checked the two elements that would concern me.  If you can "modulate" the engine speed by connecting and disconnecting the vacuum hose to the advance, you're likely fine with that part.  I would check each vacuum hose off of the manifold in the same way--- invest in a vacuum gauge and "tee" into each "device," checking for leaks. Oft times, the vacuum release on the emergency brake is a leaker. Not sure what vacuum suction should be present in a well running Cadillac engine of that vintage, but you can tell a lot if you have the precise number, and then go through a few "checks" using the throttle.  I with patience,  you'll get the gremlins out of your engine.  James   

spolij

Hornet no problem.

James how would you check the vacuum storage unit?

James Landi

Here again, a vacuum gauge is capable of measuring the vacuum "teed" into the  device... and  by measuring the difference in vacuum value with the input to the device plugged off.   I suggest that you google vacuum gauge applications as well as research the vacuum specification on your car at idle.  A vacuum gauge can be a valuable tool to track down leaks that cause rough idle, poor gas mileage, and sluggish performance.   James

hornetball

#44
I'd recommend you get one of those brake bleeder/vacuum pumps.  I've used mine to check every vacuum actuator on the car -- and found several that were bad.  Easy-peasy.  Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Savicos-Bleeder-Automotive-Motorbike-Bleeding/dp/B07D76TD39/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_2/134-4706801-4349669?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07D76TD39&pd_rd_r=af7e0b9a-40f1-11e9-a824-df4daa8f2bd1&pd_rd_w=scWUz&pd_rd_wg=quQ5k&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=37P0XB0DQ2641NV5EA02&psc=1&refRID=37P0XB0DQ2641NV5EA02

Note that you don't have to order online.  Should be readily available at the local parts store.

A vacuum gauge should also be in your toolbox.  Invaluable for setting idle mixture and checking the overall health of the engine.

35-709

#45
Excellent suggestion.

Here is a website with a video about how to properly use and interpret a vacuum gauge with several different scenarios ---
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
You may have to click on "Run Adobe Flash" to see the video, Adobe is safe.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

spolij

James
That vacuum storage unit draws vacuum directly from the intake manifold so if the vacuum tester is on the other side of the storage unit and I'm getting vacuum pressure, does that mean that the unit is working properly?

35.
Thank you I'll check it out.

Hornet.
I have a break bleeder thing that I bought to bleed to system from my convertible top but it doesn't have that handgun for creating vacuum I assume that's what you mean it creates vacuum and allows you to see if some working when it's getting vacuum. But if you disconnected the vacuum line feeding something and you getting vacuum doesn't that do the same thing?

James.
I do have a vacuum gauge and I use it often. Even if I know I have vacuum I use it to check the inches or degrees of vacuum. Between my shop manual and a booklet on climate control that I bought from a member here there is a tremendous amount of information on vacuum pressures.




hornetball

Quote from: spolij on March 07, 2019, 12:56:06 PMI have a break bleeder thing that I bought to bleed to system from my convertible top but it doesn't have that handgun for creating vacuum I assume that's what you mean it creates vacuum and allows you to see if some working when it's getting vacuum. But if you disconnected the vacuum line feeding something and you getting vacuum doesn't that do the same thing?

The hand vacuum pumps let you test a vacuum device/hose in isolation from the engine.  You connect to the device, pump away to create vacuum and then you can monitor the gauge to see if the vacuum holds (i.e., no leaks).  Real handy.

Using engine vacuum with a vacuum gauge in parallel isn't quite the same thing.  After all, you've got 472 or 501 cubic inches continuously pulling hard.  If a vacuum leak is small, you may never see it.

James Landi

Hi John--- we've important parallel conversations in progress.  Regarding the "repurposed tin can hanging on your fire wall" I'll tell you what I think. I owned a 65 SDV with the black "tin can," that overtime developed a slight rupture along the bottom.  I could not get the roughness out of the idle until I tracked down that leak... John, that was 45 years ago, and I surmised that the crack in the can was due to metal fatigue --- that is, was the intense fluctuation of vacuum, the metal at the seam simple gave up.  I believe the "can" was used to provide vacuum power lock actuation when the motor was off, so I believe there was built into the device, some kind of check valve that would hold the vacuum in the can when the engine was off.  Hope this helps.  James

spolij

James
that's exactly what it does is store vacuum when the engine is off so the power door locks and trunk locks work at least for a while.
I just don't understand how it can hold vacuum when the other line gives up the vacuum when needed. There is a valve on the inside it's totally covered up. I guess that's what controls the output of the tank.

James Landi

I think you've nailed it John... must be a "reed valve" at the top to the tin can.   My 67 Eldorado had a much more substantial vacuum reservoir that kept the head light lids in the up position when the light were off and the door locks actuating with the engine off.   Only a very few of that model seemed to fail.  Cadillac division always seemed inclined to fuss around with vacuum actuated windshield wipers, windshield washers, automatic level control compressors, vacuum actuated door locks, and any number of devices that would lock you in, out, or fail to perform under pressure (such as going up a hill with the windshield wipers stopped for lack of sufficient manifold vacuum under acceleration).   The tin can reservoir was prone to metal fatigue under normal use, thus creating a manifold vacuum leak.   Ugh.

Happy day,  James

DaddyDeVille

Quote from: rajeevx7 on January 14, 2019, 06:37:47 PM
I’m not sure what you budgeted for this resto, but I recommend fuel injecting everything! If you are straying from all strict oem or 1966 era replications at all AND can budget it, it’s a no brainer ;) if you are confining yourself to oem only, period correct or aren’t willing to part with the money I COMPLETELY understand that.

$1200 and fuel mapping/afr drops WAY down the ‘possible cause’ list of of future troubleshooting 8) As you can read, I can’t praise the Holley Sniper enough!

Totatly agree.  Holley is amazing.  EFI it all! :)
1 Old car (The Green Devil~le) (Lots of gas)
1 New Truck (Not quite lots of gas, but still a lot of gas)
1 New Car (no gas)
1 Newish Bike (Some gas)
1 Old bike (Some more gas)

https://chuckdidit.wordpress.com/
https://www.instagram.com/mightneedoil/

spolij

My can had rusted through at a seam. Thank God for epoxy and duct tape. Can't find one on the Internet but it will show up one day.

I got my new windshield washer nozzles packaged in an original GM package. Now it's going to be fun to get them into the housing without taking the entire mounting plate off.
It's funny sometimes you look for something on the Internet months all of a sudden there is.

spolij

#53
I have to replace the cover on this seat belt retrctor.
Anyone know how to take it apart safely? It's not in the shop manuel or the fisher body book.

35-709

Maybe I am not understanding the question, but to replace the plastic cover it is not necessary to disassemble the belt from the retractor.  Simply thread the the buckle through the slot in the cover. 
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

spolij

35
the opening in the cover is 2 1/8 inch long.
The width of the buckle is 2 5/8 inch long. Even on a diagonal it doesn't work I tried folding the belt and slipping the bracket in diagonally it doesn't work

35-709

Hmmm, memory slipping.  Don't remember having that problem on my '73, maybe it was different.  Sorry for the incorrect advice.  Where's Ralph Messina?  I suppose you could slit the cover up the front (short) side, slide the belt in and super-glue it back together.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

The Tassie Devil(le)

Seat Belt Retractors are not designed to be pulled to pieces, and reconfigured, BUT, nothing is impossible.

I have done these things BUT, one has to remember that the flat coil spring is under really high tension when even retracted, and one has to be aware of the chances of the guts flying out as the spring cover is removed.

Going that deep into the part, one has to wear gloves and skin and eye protection.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

spolij

Well I came up with a fix. I cut the threads that bound the seatbelt to the chrome insert thing.
So I swapped out the old cover, tomorrow I'll re-stitch the belt.

spolij

The seatbelt problem came out great. When I went to put them back in I noticed how filthy the car was so I spent the day cleaning up the car and the garage. Now I'm working on the seat warmers I think I got the wiring correct. I didn't have time to turn it on last night and wait to see if it actually heated up.
I learned I have to be a lot more careful working around the car since many of the leather parts that I had died I rubbed off the finish. So now I have to go touchup.
I've got to make parts of the carpet fit better. Then my next project is the heat, don't have any heat.
Well time for lunch see you guys later.