1937 LaSalle Grille Emblems Ready For Paint

[carlhungness]

       Let me tell you in time how much trepidation is manufactured when you have a rawhide mallet in your hand and you are about to hit a rare grille emblem that is about as thick as five sheets of typewriter paper.
        The V-8 emblem from my '37 Coupe is brass and had been over-tightened thus causing the attached studs to suck in the long V. I have two emblems now so trying to figure out what kind of 'dolly' to use to push the brass back flat wasn't quite as intimidating if I only had one to work with.
The same case is true with the winged emblems that goes at the top of the grille shell. I have a spare I just bought.
        I made a tube to just fit over the stud on the V8 emblem then used a variety of straight metal stock to gently nudge the brass back into position. I did the same with the V8 emblem and am now happy to report both are about as metal-finished as my talent will allow.
       Surprisingly I managed to get the V8 emblems just about perfect. I still see a dot of a dent where paint goes, so I'll try to tap some more and if all else fails a pin-head worth of bondo in the primer will give me a dead flat surface to apply the red paint.
      The winged emblems have presented their own challenges in attempting to remove the dents from the wings themselves while keeping the definition in-between the wings themselves. Then retaining the necessary curved surface to fit the grille.
       I have used jeweler's files on the wings to try and attain a consistent plane throughout but with each stroke removing just a bit of material I was continually aware that a pin-hole may appear.
     The photos aren't great but they'll give you an idea of my progress.
      Next step is to chrome plate the wings, then paint both emblems and thankfully I'm getting some great advice from professional restorer Karla Maxwell.
      Then it will be on to the hubcap and bumper emblems. My thanks goes out to member Dave Zitman who informed me the tabs on the back of the bumper and hubcap emblems are in different positions: The hubcaps have tabs at 12-3-6-9 o'clock and the bumper tabs are at 10-2-5-8. I may have to try and move some tabs or make new ones and try to silver solder on as I don't have enough of both emblems with tabs in proper position, but that's another speed bump for next week. One of my bumper emblems is really knackered.
    One last point here, I did obtain additional hubcap to replace mine that has a long, deep dent, but the emblem is stamped into the cap itself and not removable. Could it be from another year?

[39LaSalleDriver]

I've got one of these style of hubcap medallions that I'd be willing to part with if you're interested. Let me know and I'll fish it out and send some pictures.

[carlhungness]

       I now have plenty of hubcap medallions that I can restore.Taking out the dents is about as tedious as it gets. As Dave Zitman reported the tabs on the hubcaps are located differently than the ones on the bumper face plates...but lo and behold, I found one hubcap medallion on a small cap that has the tabs located for the bumper face plates.
       It makes no difference where the tabs are on the hubcaps but it does on the bumper face plates. The LaS has to be at 12:00 o'clock so the tabs have to match that clocking.
        Thus I have also figured out that even though the tabs are not correct for the bumper face plates, I can drill and file new locating positions on the bumper face plates so the LaS will be upright and not offset. The locating "holes" are no more than rectangular slots I can clone with patience and jeweler's files and small drills.
       So I may be offering some extras for sale.
        The major problem is the locating tabs themselves. The medallions are brass, and so are the tabs. They're made to bend over one-time basically. When prying them up it is easy to snap off a tab, and how to attach a new one? I anticipated the bend-once-and-break, so I sharpened a beer can opener to pry the tabs upward, gently, and didn't break any. Nevertheless, several were broken before my ham-fist attacked them.
          Now I'm researching IT solder to see if there's a chance I can actually flame melt some of the IT or Euctectic solder in place without melting the whole plot.
         I just love these new learning experiences but working with the winged emblem (grille shell) is nerve wracking and I'm not brave enough to put a torch to them quite yet.
       I'm getting lots of help from medallion restorer Karla Maxwell who does the kiln-necessary vitreous enamel. She has multiple Pebble Beach winners in her portfolio and has been at it for decades. My '37 has painted emblems so my process will be easier, but still a major challenge for a novice like me. Fortunately she's impressed with my violin-making, sculpture, general fabrication so she is providing knowledge I'd never even think about.