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1955 engine seized

Started by John S, July 07, 2020, 04:45:40 PM

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John S

Hey gang

So the original motor in my 55 Coupe DeVille seized. Origin of problem unknown at this point, but if the 331 block can't be saved, I'm looking at options. Assume some of you have gone the 350 swap route. Any input on that? Also, do you know anyone who sells refurbbed 331s, 365s, or 390s, that can be swapped out if this one can't be rebuilt. Know anyone who sells engine cores? I'm getting quotes of around $7500 for full rebuild at this point. Any advice is much appreciated.

thanks

novetti

Need to find out why it seized.
-Overheated?
-Spun Bearing
- sludge and foreign material mechanical lock?

It could be as simple as a teardown and cleanup (w new rings and some con rod bearings etc) or a total destruction of internal parts...

Parts are available to rebuild your original block in case that checks ok... if you care about originality/numbers matching etc.

54' Iris Blue (Preservation)
54' Cabot Gray (Restoration)
58' Lincoln Continental Convertible (Restoration)
58' Ford Skyliner (Preservation)

V63

I have a decent 1955 331 Cadillac engine long block in Arkansas, the engine was fine but I do have the heads off to facilitate moving it around.   $500

fishnjim

You can tell a lot from the motor oil.   Take a sample and look for particles.   Can send off for failure analysis also.   Pull pan and look for sludge accumulation.
When I was thinking about rebuilding the '58, I looked at a lot of reman places for a short block, so they're around.   Search internet.   I think there's a big one in TX(?).   Biggest problem you'll have buying used off internet is cracked blocks, etc.   Pouring money down that rabbit hole if you do.   Make sure you get a guarantee you can get your money back if it's trash.   I bought one off this site, and it was complete junk, but had enough new parts to pay for itself.
$7500 seems high for a rebuild, more around $5000 would be fair.   
I'd wait til I found out what status of this one is before executing options.  Especially, if numbers match.   

TJ Hopland

Is there any more story?   Is this something you have owned for a while and were driving and it just suddenly stopped while on the road?   Ran fine then would not restart?   Sat for a while?   Something you know none of the history on just know the engine is stuck?    How was it determined that its stuck?  With the key or more direct methods?  Anyone pull the spark plugs to make sure its not a hydrolock situation?   Pull the inspection cover to make sure its not a bolt that backed out?

I believe in these years nothing but the same (possibly same year even) engine will just bolt in.   If you are not able to fabricate and weld to do the work yourself $7500 will seem cheap compared to paying anyone to do any kind of a swap.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

John S

Car has been driven regularly, but stalled out as I was coming to a light as if it ran out of gas or battery died. No smoke, no noise, no nothing. Just stopped and wouldn't cycle when turned the key. Starter just clicked when you tried to start engine. Assumed it was electrical at first, but tried turning rotating assembly with spanner wrench and it's stuck, so assuming something inside has broken. Looking at worst-case scenario, as in block replacements, just in case I have to go that route. Turners Auto Wrecking has a block with the casting numbers 1456219. I don't know how or where to research what block that'd be. Does anyone know where to research casting numbers?

Mike Baillargeon #15848

Johnny, there is a flange on the block under the right front head that has the serial # of the motor.....that will tell you what it is for 1955....

Just for grins, pull the valve covers on the stuck motor, maybe something will jump out at you....maybe a valve train problem?

Mike
Mike
Baillargeon
#15848

J. Gomez

Johnny,

I agree with Mike, best thing for you is to remove everything you can and take a quick visual pick at how everything looks. As Mike mention valve covers I would also suggest the oil pan so you can take a look at both top and bottom ends.

Now if nothing pops on either top or bottom from your visual inspection there could be a possibility the issue may be the transmission got locked-up rare but anything and everything is possible.

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

INTMD8

Sounds likely rebuildable at this point.  I would pull it and inspect before buying anything else.

Seizing at low rpm is way better than kicking a rod out the side

cadman56

TJ is correct.  The 331 engine's bell housing is part of the engine block.   Everything is different from 56 on.   Best to dis assemble the engine to see what happened.  J. Gomez could very well be dead on about the trans causing your problem.
Good luck,
1956 Cadillac Coupe deVille (sold)
1956 Cadillac Convertible (sold)
1956 Cadillac Eldorado Seville (sold)
1967 Cadillac Eldorado (sold)
1968 Cadillac Convertible (Sold)
1991 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham dElegance
Larry Blanchard CLC #5820