49 Cadillac 61 Series Re-Wire

[49 Caddy]

  In the process of re-wiring the complete car and trying to figure out if I should re-use the original bulb sockets or to replace with new ones.  Car is also being converted to 12 volt.  I thought maybe just cut wires about 6" from sockets and just crimp with new wire.  That part of the wiring in not losing all the cloth insulation since it is protected from the weather.  I am aware that either way, I have to replace with 12 volt bulbs.  Thanks in advance for responses.

[V63]

Yes, i would prefer the original sockets too.

Maybe slip shrink wrap over any remaining cloth wrapped pigtails that you reuse. Push it into the socket housing as a common short when original cloth wrap fails. Should eliminate that problem.

Personally I prefer to solder the connections vs crimp. I bought a 'cigar' torch and it's just wonderful for automotive wiring. Works best with the very thin solder for electrical. Typically sold in tiny tubes at ace or improvment box stores. 

[49 Caddy]

  Thanks for the response.  I was also thinking of using those new connecters that have solder in the middle and shrink tube on either end.  Any thoughts on those?

[J. Gomez]

Thanks for the response.  I was also thinking of using those new connecters that have solder in the middle and shrink tube on either end.  Any thoughts on those?

Glenn,

From experience one issue with the old sockets vs the new bulbs (either incandesce or LED) types is the bulbs diameter would be slightly smaller (metric), so the fit would not be perfect. You may need to compressed the socket to make a good connection to ground (when applicable) for the bulb.

The connectors with solder are one way to go one drawback with them is you would need a heat gun with a small funnel able to get up to temp to melt the solder and shrink the wrapping. Just make sure the copper wires are cleaned for the solder to coat them properly.

Good luck..!

[fishnjim]

I'm not a fan of upgrading unless you're installing a modern motor and other upgrades that require 12.  6VDC works fine, if you know how to handle it.
I'm a fan of replacing wiring harnesses after 30 or so years due to the fire hazard.  I like modern circuitry, not necessarily stock configurations due to poor electrical practices in the day.   One of the many reasons I don't do pre-war.   

something to consider;
1.  Some may have a factory splice point/pigtail, compare electrical diagram.  If you don't change the sockets and need to later, then you have an unsightly splice at each one and extra labor.  If it's a driver, not so important. 
2.  What's to prevent the insulation from flaking off at some later time?  at least tape them off.  You can use the heat shield tubing also, just get the right size for the OD.  More difficult to install.
3. I suspect the 6VDC wire will be slightly larger gauge than the 12 VDC wire so may have issues with crimps, may have to use weatherproof pin connectors.  If possible I'd attach at the sockets but maybe difficult getting the proper pins/reusing for the end connections for 12 vs 6.  Same may apply with the socket twist locks/prong size for the fixtures. 
4. SAE does not support soldered joints.  They say more likely to fail from vibration and prefer crimps, but I haven't/don't have any issues.  Sometimes I do both and use shrink tube to cover up the crime...   

[Lexi]

4. SAE does not support soldered joints.  They say more likely to fail from vibration and prefer crimps, but I haven't/don't have any issues.  Sometimes I do both and use shrink tube to cover up the crime...   

Did not know that. When I re-wired my '56 CDV following a disastrous fire in the late 1970s, I soldered everthing but first braided joints together. No issues. Today I would still do the same as my experience is that crimps can also fail due to vibration. Upon soldering like Jim I now heat shrink everything to "cover up the crime". Clay/Lexi

[Joe Jensen]

When I rwwired my '49 I reused all my original light sockets.  The wiring harnes I purchased came with the new contacts for the bulb.  The transfer is pretty easy, getting everything out an prepped isn't so easy.  Just push the new wire through the old socket (once the old wire is removed), install the old insulator biscut and spring, strip the wire and connect the new contact to the wire.  I soldered mine on but you could probably crimp them.  Attached is a picture of one of the pig tails before I installed it.  If you zoom in near my twezers you can see the contacts that came with my reproduction harness.

I would prefer to not have any extra splices in my wiring.  If I were to do this job again, I would do it the same way.

Good luck,
Joe

[J. Gomez]

@Jim,

Just a small clarification on your statement below.

4. SAE does not support soldered joints.  They say more likely to fail from vibration and prefer crimps, but I haven't/don't have any issues.  Sometimes I do both and use shrink tube to cover up the crime...   

The SAE do have standard for these terminal for both crimping (AS81824) and solder types (AS81824/4).

They also have white papers and other standards addressing the type of solder recommended to use for these depending on their applications lead free, lead base, etc. etc.

Hope this helps!

[J. Gomez]

@Joe,

  


You have all the right tools on the bench except for the most important one while doing the wiring work, favorite drink...!   

[Chopper1942]

You do not have all the right tools.

GM now recommends crimp butt terminals.  They are heat shrink connectors with an adhesive when heated seals the splice.  Get the correct crimping pliers for insulated connectors. They will make a tight crimp that will not fail. The cheepy wire striper/crimpers are junk. They do not do the job.  GM has started using these Duraseal connectors on SIR/Airbag harnesses.  They would not do that unless they work. You can get some really good wire crimping pliers on Amazon.  After you make the crimp and before you heat shrink it, pull on the wires to make sure you got a good crimp. The wire may be too small for the connector you are using.  If a wire is too small for a good tight crimp for the splice connector, strip the wire long and fold it over then crimp it. The red/pink splice connector will do wire from 18-22 guage.  Sometimes, the 20 & 22 won't crimp tight without doubling over.  You will not find any OE wire on your 6V system that is less than 18 and probably no 18 gauge.  6V systems used 10, 12, 14, & 16 gauge wiring because the amperage in the 6V circuits is higher than 12V circuits.

Go to Amazon: These are great pliers and you will get good crimps. 

Wirefy Crimping Tool For Insulated Electrical Connectors - Ratcheting Wire Crimper - Crimping Pliers - Ratchet Terminal Crimper - Wire Crimp Tool 22-10 AWG