Restoring original paint

[Cadillac1967inthenorth]

I prefer cars with original paint insted of a repainted cars, but It´s also nice with a shine paint.

My 1967 deville has its original paint. The paint is in quite nice condition but it has oxidation and it´s not shiny.

I read Mike Philips excellent article on restoring old single stage paint. Then I got myself a bottle of Meguiar's Show car glaze #7 and tried it on a fenderskirt from my 1967 deville. The result is amazing! The paint is now fat and shiny, but still need more work. As you can see, touch up paint is used on some spots. In general, the paint looks better IRL than on my pic.

I probably try Meguiar's M80 speed glaze that contains diminishing abrasives to remove some imperfections and get a deeper shine. After that probably some wax to seal the paint.


Here´s a close up of the paint. The paint has visible orange peel and compared to my 1968 Buick Electra its quite a difference. My Buick has smoother paint.

Anybody here that tried the show car glaze #7?

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

I agree about maintaining originality wherever possible and Meguiar's No 7 is a staple in my reconditioning arsenal. However the skirt shown definitely had body work done at some point. 

[Cadillac1967inthenorth]

I agree about maintaining originality wherever possible and Meguiar's No 7 is a staple in my reconditioning arsenal. However the skirt shown definitely had body work done at some point. 

Yes! It has. But in general car is very clean. Its to Cold here to apply #7 on the car so i tried with the fenderskirt.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Interesting. I believe my '72 de Ville with mostly original paint will be a good candidate to try the #7!

[David Greenburg]

I am a big fan of #7.  The mostly original paint on my '61 is in pretty good shape, but #7 helps keep it that way.

[Cadillac1967inthenorth]

I am a big fan of #7.  The mostly original paint on my '61 is in pretty good shape, but #7 helps keep it that way.

Do you use wax or any other product to protect the laquer? #7 needs some kind of top layer.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Yesterday, I tried to buy a bottle #7. It seems that it's not available in Europe! I did not try to buy from a US retailer; it can be that the shipping is not possible. Anyway, I will try.

[Cadillac1967inthenorth]

Yesterday, I tried to buy a bottle #7. It seems that it's not available in Europe! I did not try to buy from a US retailer; it can be that the shipping is not possible. Anyway, I will try.

I used Jetcarrier to buy it from the US

[Roger Zimmermann]

I used Jetcarrier to buy it from the US

What is Jetcarrier?

[Cadillac1967inthenorth]

What is Jetcarrier?

Its a service for us in sweden and norway If we want to buy from the us, from selles that dont ship to europe
jetcarrier.com/

[Jim Miller]

I used #7 on my '41 once to clean and brighten the finish. It worked well. I then used plain wax with no cleaner in it in the spring and fall. The finish has stayed nice in spite of its age.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Its a service for us in sweden and norway If we want to buy from the us, from selles that dont ship to europe
jetcarrier.com/

Thanks! Nothing for me...

[fishnjim]

Glazing is generally for after surface treatment, so just plopping some down to make it look shiny is covering the dirty pigs lips.   Glaze tends to not last in my experience and you're OK for that car show but will be redoing it before the next one.   Personally, I don't use glazes.  Not needed, if done right.
You get one maybe two chances to level out and buff old paint depending how thick is was applied.  That can only be told with a thickness detector/visual inspection.
I generally, start light abrasion like with a pre-wax cleaner/polish and go down in rubbing compound or wet sanding until I get to clean level paint and what can be tolerated.  {Not everything is recoverable.  I was able to closs up my '49 "P" original paint but most of the paint gone.  I just did spots to see what it would have looked like and some was re-paint.}    If it's not level it won't have the right gloss all over.
Once you're on clean level paint, you can do the top coats/waxes/glazes to your heart's content.  I started out rubbing cars by hand, close to 60 years ago, so it's a bit of an art.   Autogeek is a good source.  But modern stuff for modern paints mostly.
'67 should be acrylic lacquer, it's put down in layers.  Lacquers can be moved around a bit to cover fades, etc.  Another costlier option is clean it/spot it if needed, and have it clear coated to protect the original paint.  There's not much UV protection in the old formulae but acrylic itself has protection.  Why you have to keep waxing them to protect the paint.  Factory cars then were not clear coated, but custom paint was.
One can spot in/repair those defects if they know what they're doing, so it's
not always a re-paint.  I even level touch up paints spots.  You have to set your expectations correctly for the results that can be achieved with what you have. 

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

Glazing is generally for after surface treatment...

That is generally true however Meguiar's No 7 can also be used as first step rejuvenation of lacquer that had become dried out after many years of neglect. With an original paint Saxony Red '79 I had, heavy compounding restored the shine initially but returned to being just as dull as it had been after it sat overnight. On another panel I followed Goirot Garage's advice and applied No 7 first - leaving on for 24 hours so it can "moisturize" the paint. After that the paint stopped going dull after being compounded.   

[Cadillac1967inthenorth]

Glazing is generally for after surface treatment, 

Have You tried it? First You use clay, then #7, then speed Glaze 80 (has abrasative) then wax etc. #7 is a really good start

[Cadillac1967inthenorth]

That is generally true however Meguiar's No 7 can also be used as first step rejuvenation of lacquer that had become dried out after many years of neglect. With an original paint Saxony Red '79 I had, heavy compounding restored the shine initially but returned to being just as dull as it had been after it sat overnight. On another panel I followed Goirot Garage's advice and applied No 7 first - leaving on for 24 hours so it can "moisturize" the paint. After that the paint stopped going dull after being compounded.   

Is magic! Gonna use speed glaze 80 and then wax. When it gets warmer outside. Its still snow here

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

How do you apply this #7? By hand? Buffer?
Our 55 has original paint but I am afraid to be to aggressive.
I like the idea of letting it sit for 24 hours to moisten the paint-- I can get ours to shine, but it goes away after a few days.
Jeff R

[David Greenburg]

Do you use wax or any other product to protect the laquer? #7 needs some kind of top layer.

Yes; I use a good carnauba wax on top of it. Seems like everyone has their favorite. I like Pinnacle Souverain

[Cadillac1967inthenorth]

How do you apply this #7? By hand? Buffer?
Our 55 has original paint but I am afraid to be to aggressive.
I like the idea of letting it sit for 24 hours to moisten the paint-- I can get ours to shine, but it goes away after a few days.
Jeff R

By hand. Its very gentle. First You clean car. Then You use Detailing clay. Then You apply #7. Seal with a wax that You like

[David Greenburg]

Definitely by hand if you're talking about original paint on a car that's 50+ years old. Think of the #7 treatment more as feeding the paint rather than paint correction.